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Has anyone opened the gearbox on both sides for the mower? I'm wanting to do a big tune up on my LM56 to see if that'll help mow better. I removed the 10mm bolts but the case did not budge unless it's just stuck from caked on grime. I'm wondering if there's too much grease and gunk that's making my mower difficult to move. The drum moves okay on Travel mode, but engaging the reel gets it really stiff to need a push and pick up momentum. My mower won't even move when I engage the groomer. It's definitely tightened up after the years of owning it.

I also want to inspect for parts that I'm needing to replace so I can submit an order soon.
 
You need to remove the wheel attachments on the axle and then pop or work the covers off. Use a rubber or plastic dead blow hammer to loosen the covers. Try not to mess the felt gasket up either.

I’ve taken them off before to replace the reel. It’s in my journal somewhere. I just used the parts diagram to help put everything back together but take pictures just to be safe.
 
Has anyone opened the gearbox on both sides for the mower? I'm wanting to do a big tune up on my LM56 to see if that'll help mow better. I removed the 10mm bolts but the case did not budge unless it's just stuck from caked on grime. I'm wondering if there's too much grease and gunk that's making my mower difficult to move. The drum moves okay on Travel mode, but engaging the reel gets it really stiff to need a push and pick up momentum. My mower won't even move when I engage the groomer. It's definitely tightened up after the years of owning it.

I also want to inspect for parts that I'm needing to replace so I can submit an order soon.
I agree with everything @Mightyquinn mentioned. It's pretty straight forward.

I would purchase a gasket just to have it whether you need it or not. Also, there's a chance you might need to replace the bearings while you have the covers off.

A unit purchased from NY was used extensively on a golf course. I don't know if the course mechanics replaced the gaskets or not, but one of the bolts seized at the bottom of the smaller cover. It resulted in the bolt head snapping off and I had to drill out the bolt and retap the hole. (It's shown below in the photo.)

The other problem I had with the unit was that the bearings blew up on the unit. On of the balls of the bearing got stuck in a gear and wouldn't allow the rear roller to move either direction. Here's a photo of part of the bearing still attached to the shaft and the remaining parts on the cardboard.
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I believe there's another bearing on the other side of that filthy gear (two bearings per side)?

Here's the notes from my repair:

The quickest way to tell which side of the mower is having gear problems is to remove the pin that connects both sides of the rear rollers of the mower. Once the pin is removed, the right side of the mower will spin freely if it doesn’t have gear problems and you will know that the gear problems are on the left side of the mower. Obviously, if the right side doesn’t spin freely, you know the problems are there.

Pin Removal Process: The pin can be located from the rear of the mower. It is located on the left side of the mower near the brake cable. You have to remove a Pin, “C” clip, slide over the cover with a screw driver, and then remove the pin. Once the remove the pin, it allows the right side to spin independently from the left side.

For me the right side would still only turn a quarter turn. So, I removed the WHEEL DRIVING FITTING from the drum shaft after I remove the hexagon socket head bolt. Inserting a screwdriver into the gap on the wheel drive fitting, will you to open it up and remove it with ease. Then, remove the KEY.

Next, remove the (5) M6-1.0 x 40mm bolts holding the cover in position. These should have had anti-seize applied before being installed. I had one break off and I had to extract it with a tap and die and several drill bits. Definitely, use anti-seize when reinstalling these bolts!

My bearing had disintegrated and was the cause of the quarter turn range of motion. I removed the metal fragments and what was left of the bearing. I had to use a 6” gear puller from Harbor Freight to remove what was left of the bearing still mounted on the transport axle.

I removed two gears and cleaned them.

Also, I decided to replace the seal for the Right Cover. When installing the seal, be sure to keep the edges of the rubber dry. You do not want any lubricant on the edges. Lubricant won’t allow the middle part of the seals rubber edge to set properly.

Do not fully fill the Right Cover with grease. You need to grease the gears as well as the space between the bearings and the seal. (The Left Cover requires that you fill the cover completely to force the grease into all the necessary spaces.)
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The Right Cover gasket does not need a sealant if it is brand new. Otherwise, any Permatex gasket sealant is okay.

After you replace the seal and bearing, make sure you fill the gap between the bearing and the seal fully before installing it. This will help to ensure that water doesn’t get to the bearing again.

This way when you install the housing, it forces grease into the bearing and keeps the cavity between the bearing and seal fully filled with grease.

The replacement bearings are: Koyo 6204

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Hopefully, this helps!!! Goodluck!
 
@TulsaFan Oh, my, that definitely looked very involved. But I hope to tackle it and fix up my mower to be as good as new. I'll need to do some more research before diving in and possibly messing it up. Other than the parts diagram, did you use any other resources? I tried searching YouTube for a Graeme video but all I can find is the front attachment installation.

@Mightyquinn I'm pretty sure I have the wheel attachments off. I had actually cut down the axles a long time ago as I have no intention of using the wheels and wanted to get closer to my foundation/fences. There's maybe a 1" nub leftover from the axle. I skimmed all the pages of your journal (very impressive BTW) but did not see any photos of your Baroness maintenance unless I missed them.
 
@TulsaFan Oh, my, that definitely looked very involved. But I hope to tackle it and fix up my mower to be as good as new. I'll need to do some more research before diving in and possibly messing it up. Other than the parts diagram, did you use any other resources? I tried searching YouTube for a Graeme video but all I can find is the front attachment installation.

@Mightyquinn I'm pretty sure I have the wheel attachments off. I had actually cut down the axles a long time ago as I have no intention of using the wheels and wanted to get closer to my foundation/fences. There's maybe a 1" nub leftover from the axle. I skimmed all the pages of your journal (very impressive BTW) but did not see any photos of your Baroness maintenance unless I missed them.
I'm sorry it is on page 4 of this thread, I forgot that I posted it here instead of in my Lawn Journal.
 
what is wrong with yours?
Anyone know if any front rollers fit from other makes? Jacobsen makes a 22” for the greens king, pgm22, eclipse 22”. Their hoc brackets are similar as well.
 
I would just get all the important dimensions and make sure they are all the same. Look at R&R products as they have a wide assortment of golf parts, they might have something that fits.
That’s what I’ve been doing. Probably going to order one tonight and just compare. If it doesn’t work I’ll send it back.
 
Well after 5 awesome seasons of mowing my 5ksqft lawn at .480" with basically no issues, I have finally (I think) worn my bedknife out. I cannot get it to cut paper without SIGNFICANT contact with the reel, so much so that it shuts the engine down or REALLY strains if i barely back it off (and even still it doesn't cut paper super well after it being loosened up a tick). I have adjusted and backlapped but think it is time. Is there a retailer in the SE anyone likes to support (I am in ATL) I think i have seen @Mightyquinn mention Eastern Turf in NC. Is there a specific part number? Should I replace the screws while I am at it? I also think I might take it to a local golf course to have someone help me....any guidance is helpful thanks!
 
You will need to replace the bedknife screws. You should try the Torx screws mentioned by @Mightyquinn earlier in this thread.

I recently had to replace my bedknife due to hitting a rock in new laid Tahoma 31 sod. I didn't have the bedknife ground...just backed off the reel and readjusted. It cut flawlessly!!!

You can do it yourself with an impact screwdriver and a bedknife screw driver tool. I wouldn't take it to a golf course.
 
I would go ahead and order 2 bedknives from Eastern Turf that way you have an extra on hand. I have had success on refacing the bedknife to get it cutting sharp again so you might want to look into that. I highly recommend the Torx bedknife screws over the standard ones as they make getting it off the next time so much easier. Also, I think Eastern Turf usually only carries the standard 1.5mm bedknife if you are wanting one of the other ones they will need to order it.
 
You will need to replace the bedknife screws. You should try the Torx screws mentioned by @Mightyquinn earlier in this thread.

I recently had to replace my bedknife due to hitting a rock in new laid Tahoma 31 sod. I didn't have the bedknife ground...just backed off the reel and readjusted. It cut flawlessly!!!

You can do it yourself with an impact screwdriver and a bedknife screw driver tool. I wouldn't take it to a golf course.
Thank you! i ordered both items!
 
I would go ahead and order 2 bedknives from Eastern Turf that way you have an extra on hand. I have had success on refacing the bedknife to get it cutting sharp again so you might want to look into that. I highly recommend the Torx bedknife screws over the standard ones as they make getting it off the next time so much easier. Also, I think Eastern Turf usually only carries the standard 1.5mm bedknife if you are wanting one of the other ones they will need to order it.
Ordered 2! 1.5mm is what they had in stock. I am a bit concerned thought, after speaking with them at length, my mower has been running with fairly significant contact to the reel / bedknife for awhile now...i am hopeful I did not damage my reel. To my knowledge it has not been resurfaced (the reel) in it's lifetime. I guess the order of operations would be to try and see how the reel cuts paper when seated to a new bedknife with light / no contact. and if it doesnt work well then explore a reel grind? any thoughts on that?
 
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