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Do you have a Baroness greens mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​

Here are some useful links for new and current Baroness owners
LockNLube Grease Coupler
Lumax Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18 in Flex Hose
Accu-gage (Hands free magnet option highly recommended!)
Surecan
No-Spill
Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines. Hour Meter
Sierra Tools JB5684 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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I love the video and have watched it numerous times and I'm REALLY happy that I have one of these
 

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For those in the know, particularly MQ...initial thoughts on the following listing?

http://miturfequip.com/product/used-turf-equipment/used-walking-greens-mowers/baroness-lm56g-22″-walking-greens-mower/

There seem to be a few on the forum that have had good dealings with this seller. Haven't made any additional inquiries pertaining to year of the units, hours, etc. Just looking for a feel on the advertised price point assuming they are decent, operable mowers that might just need a little aesthetic TLC. I'm attracted to the gear-driven design of these units (vice belts) and the Honda engine. Also, I'm guessing that most reputable golf courses "could" grind the reel when needed in the same manner as any of the usual big three (JD, Toro, Jacobsen)...assuming that the proper business/personal relationship is in place. Thoughts?
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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palms said:
For those in the know, particularly MQ...initial thoughts on the following listing?

http://miturfequip.com/product/used-turf-equipment/used-walking-greens-mowers/baroness-lm56g-22″-walking-greens-mower/

There seem to be a few on the forum that have had good dealings with this seller. Haven't made any additional inquiries pertaining to year of the units, hours, etc. Just looking for a feel on the advertised price point assuming they are decent, operable mowers that might just need a little aesthetic TLC. I'm attracted to the gear-driven design of these units (vice belts) and the Honda engine. Also, I'm guessing that most reputable golf courses "could" grind the reel when needed in the same manner as any of the usual big three (JD, Toro, Jacobsen)...assuming that the proper business/personal relationship is in place. Thoughts?
Funny you posted this as another member here has PM'd me about this same mower(s). For $950, I think it's a good deal initially as they appear to be in good shape and come with everything mine did originally(Grass Catcher, Headlight(which sucks BTW), transport tires and a Groomer). They look pretty clean and have hardly any rust on them. I really love mine and enjoy the fact that I don't have to worry about any belts or anything. I just make sure to lube it every 10 hours and change the oil every 50 hours. I also believe the seller is an actual Baroness Dealer too if that's worth anything to anyone.

I did learn one thing about sharpening these mowers(which I have never done, just backlapping) is that they require a special stone since the reels are made from a harder steel than the other manufacturers. One of our other members was curious about it and emailed Baroness directly about it and they said to contact Foley United to see if they know of anyone in your location who could do it.

This is a portion of the email.

Unfortunately being in California without a dealer located by you, we don't have a ton of information regarding people that grind near you. My boss said you might be able to get some information by contacting Foley United tel:1-800-225-9810. They are a grinding company that knows who Baroness is and might be able to point you towards someone. They also have our relief angle information. We don't have a grinder ourself and have someone come to our location, might want to just do a google search near your area and see what comes up. I'm sure there is the same type of person out near you for the golf courses. What I've seen is that many golf courses will buy the grinder but their mechanic doesn't understand how to grind properly, therefore keeping the job of the guy who drives around sharpening reels and bedknives for golf courses. The 2 things I would recommend you ask about if you get in touch with someone, do they understand relief angle grinding, if they don't they will ruin your reel, and do they understand Baroness reels and bedknives. If they have never worked on Baroness equipment before, they probably have a grinding stone meant for toro Jacobson or John Deere. We use a much harder steel than the other manufacturers, so you need a harder stone. The upside is they last longer and stay sharper way longer than the competition. We have customers that mow everyday and go a few years without grinding if they are backlaping and understand how to maintain a reel and bedknife.
I hope this points you in the right direction. If you cannot find anyone and foley cannot help, let me know and I can ask our grinder person if he knows someone, maybe saw at the gis or something.

Regards,
Alex Yokoi

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask away.
 

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Baroness LM56 Meyer Zoysia 0.4"
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Mightyquinn said:
"We have customers that mow everyday and go a few years without grinding if they are backlaping and understand how to maintain a reel and bedknife." Alex Yokoi
Anyone, @Mightyquinn, @ajmikola, @gpbrown60, or @bigmks care to share how you have proceeded with the backlapping process or finding someone to grind your reel? I read where Mightyquinn uses 400 grit clover compound. Is it straight to 400 or is there a 180 grit or higher beforehand?

Anyone explored the cost of buying a grinding stone from Foley? Perhaps, we could ship it to one another?

Everyone using EP #2 grease?

Any problems with clutches so far?

I join this group on Monday...my mower is waiting for me at a shipping terminal in Tulsa that is closed on the weekend. :cry:
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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I think Pinhigh makes a 180 grit backlapping compound but if the reel on the mower you got is anything like the one @bigmks has and it still has the gold rust preventative on it all you should need is the 400 grit Clover compound. You may also want to have 120 grit on hand too just in case. There is a 13mm nut on the right side of the mower as you are looking at it that you will attach a drill with socket to in order to backlap the mower. Let me know if you need any further instructions. You shouldn't need to sharpen the blade for at least 3-4 years as long as you don't hit anything to cause damage and just an occasional backlap will get you back to cutting in no time.

I've looked into all the DIY sharpening systems and they are all cost prohibitive, you best bet is to find a local golf course that can do it for you and it's probably best to try and get it done in the offseason.

I've been using Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease in the green tube since I got it without any issues.

I've had zero issues with my clutch. Is there a reason you are asking?

Just FYI, the Clover compound is VERY sticky and doesn't wash off very easily like a normal backlapping compound does. I have found that using Super Clean does a fairly good job at removing it and breaking it down not to mention it's also a great degreaser/cleaner to have around in the garage.
 

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Baroness LM56 Meyer Zoysia 0.4"
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Mightyquinn said:
I've had zero issues with my clutch. Is there a reason you are asking?
Just curious as to whether anyone has had any clutch issues from "feathering" their mowers. I have a small yard with none forgiving obstructions. So, I plan on running this mower at its lowest rpm setting and feathering alot! However, one should never underestimate the ability of a transport axle to act as a grappling hook. :lol: (I honestly think the introduction of the Rotary Power Scissors/Landscape Blade was a game changing moment for homeowners wanting to use greens mowers.)

I guess I should have included @touchofgrass in the shoutout! I may just send her a PM if there is something about the mower that you cannot answer! :thumbup:
 

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I have nothing really to add that the other guys haven't. I backlap, a lot. Do the grease thing as recommended, make sure it can cut paper across the bedknife, adjust reel to bed knife when needed.
For height adjustment i went to lowes and bought a 15/16th self ratcheting box wrench, it has really helped because the locking nut and bolt don't twist so easily on mine.
I cut off the transport axles with an angle grinder.
For the engine, I dumped the oil and gas when i first bought it, replaced the carb and put in fresh oil. New filter as well. I only use ethanol free gas. The freakin honda gx120 engine starts with 1/2 a pull. Best engine i have ever had.
I just tuned it up for the season and it cuts paper better than my wife's expensive shears she uses for sewing :). I love it, I do wish it had an independent reel you could take off and adjust on a bench. I use a cinder block on the middle of the handle to hold it all the way down while I do adjustments.
I have been meaning to make a youtube video, but I've been to busy. Good luck, hope that helps. Much props to @Mightyquinn for showing me the ropes.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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I do have to have the transport wheels on to make any HOC/groomer adjustments as the HOC bar won't fully seat on the bedknife but that's something you shouldn't have to adjust too often.

@ajmikola What did you do with your other Baroness?
 

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Mightyquinn said:
I do have to have the transport wheels on to make any HOC/groomer adjustments as the HOC bar won't fully seat on the bedknife but that's something you shouldn't have to adjust too often.

@ajmikola What did you do with your other Baroness?
I sold it to a buddy of mine. I have gone back and forth about backing off a bit on my lawn. I am going to try to be very aggressive with my PGR this year so I don't have to cut as much.
 

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@Mightyquinn has been so helpful in the process. He is my goto guy with questions about the mower. I bought the 280 grit compund, but like @Mightyquinn said if you'res is like mines it will be awhile before you have to backlap.
I bought this to change the oil after Mightyquin recommendation. All that is left for me to do is change the oil and start it up. I made a diy HOC gauge as well. I'm looking forward to taking it into the backyard to figure how exactly it works. This is all new to me. I'm a young grasshopper!!
 

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20k Tif419 Bermuda in Greenville SC.
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Ware said:
I like it. I have seen the larger/more expensive marine versions. For me, this is a no brainer for small engines. Ordered. :thumbup:

Here is the Amazon link.
My "professional" rig was an airbrush compressor and a 4 gallon reservoir with a float valve on the suction inlet to prevent flooding the pump. Little pricey for us homegamers but couldn't beat it for multiple oil extractions every day.
 
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