How many lbs did you put down per 1k of lawn?

 

No clue put down at bag rate recommended from Jonathan Green

 

That is a 15# bag for 5k sqft. I'd at least weigh the bag to figure out what was put down. Half the bag would be 1.5# N/1k. What did the lawn look like immediately before the application? I'd guess fertilizer burn, maybe some technique driven issues with the application, burning on both ends of the yard.

 

About 6 pounds left in the bag

 

What's upsetting is the bag said 7 on Scott's rotary spreader picture attached taken from bag. Jonathan Green website has spreader set for 5.

 

Picture from product label from Jonathan Green website actual bag

 

Picture from product label from Jonathan Green website actual bag

Buy a cheap digital scale, like used for fish. I weigh all my granular applications in a bucket.

 

My lawn is the same size as the OP's.... I use a digital scale and don't pay any attention to the spreader settings. I use a scotts hand held/hand crank that fits right on top of my scale. I put in a calculated amount of fert, and start with the lowest setting and see how fast the fert comes out. I want my fert to come out just slow enough for me to get the fert down in 2 or 3 passes thru the yard. If it doesn't come out fast enough, I open it up a bit more.

The size of the fert prills/particulate is a big factor, but i don't trust the fert manufacturer's settings. How do they know how many passes I want to make? I think those settings are geared towards larger lawns where a person may not want to make 2 or 3 passes.

 

The damage is done I refuse in my mind to take responsibility I followed directions on the bag as per the manufacturer even though it's obviously wrong with proof given. With that I know I'm wrong by trusting them I usually don't I always used my Scott's hand spreader and applied at lowest setting for a light feeding to not burn the lawn and just a light feeding just apply more often almost like spoon feeding. But now to repair this how do I seed it considering dimension has been applied to stop seeds from germination? Can I just put down top soil about a inch deep and seed? Will it germinate and survive?

 

As you now know, spreaders vary. Instructions are imperfect at times. The only thing you can guarantee on the bag is the total weight and the guaranteed analysis. Do your own calculations from there. Weigh out how much you need to apply- no sense dumping 15# into the spreader if you should only be putting down 5#. And with the Scotts rotaries (even the delux), err on the side of 1-2 settings lighter. You can always make another pass but you can't pick it up once it's down.

Since its KBG, either let it spread on its own (Its got enough nitrogen to work with for a while!) or put a few plugs in. I wouldn't bother with more seed. If you have some potting soil and pots you could plant a couple of those with the seed and use them for the plugs later. I have 2 dozen pots growing now just for that purpose (but for TTTF and PRG).

 

@M32075, the label from the website listed setting 5. maybe they are 2 different products. Can you take a picture of the front of the bag?

 

 

From the label on line: do not apply more than 9.2 lb of this product per 1000 sq ft (0.5 lb ai/acre) per application

Using the veri-green version of product
You applied approx 9 lbs of product. so 1.8 lbs N and 0.01125 AI (~0.5 lb per acre)

 

From the label on line: do not apply more than 9.2 lb of this product per 1000 sq ft (0.5 lb ai/acre) per application

Using the veri-green version of product
You applied approx 9 lbs of product. so 1.8 lbs N and 0.01125 AI (~0.5 lb per acre)

That answers that wayyy to much nitrogen of course it will burn. How do I repair this considering dimension has been applied? Add top soil? Wait until spring?

 

That is a different bag then online. What is the percent of AI (Dimension) listed on the bag.

front, bottom, left.
Dithiopyr: 3,5- pyridinedicarbothioic acid, 2-(difluoromethyl)- 4-(2-methylpropyl)-6-
(trifluoromethyl)-S,S-dimethyl ester.

 

That is a different bag then online. What is the percent of AI (Dimension) listed on the bag.

front, bottom, left.
Dithiopyr: 3,5- pyridinedicarbothioic acid, 2-(difluoromethyl)- 4-(2-methylpropyl)-6-
(trifluoromethyl)-S,S-dimethyl ester.

I'll have to check when I get home later

 

1.8 might not burn, 25 percent is slow release.

Does anyone else have any experience with this much N? My experiences have only been with dumping fert. and that is alot more N then 1.8

 

1.8 might not burn, 25 percent is slow release.

Does anyone else have any experience with this much N? My experiences have only been with dumping fert. and that is alot more N then 1.8

I was thinking maybe summer patch it attacks KBG and this is my first year of KBG

 

Over a period of one to two weeks, the turf continues to decline, turning yellow or straw brown and eventually collapsing to the soil surface. The outer edges of the patch are usually orange or bronze when the disease is actively developing. Affected plants are easily pulled up from the turf, and visual examination reveals that the roots, crowns, and rhizomes are black and rotten. The patches recur in the same spot annually, and expand at a rate of 2 to 4 inches per year. Resistant grasses, such as fescues or weedy species, are often present in areas damaged by summer patch.

Summer Patch

The content on this page is derived from an Extension Factsheet. You must login at https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/summer-patch-in-turf to edit this content. Only the following authors should have access to make changes: Lee Butler (Entomology & Plant Pathology) Jim Kerns (Entomology & Plant...

www.turffiles.ncsu.edu

 

I have been battling summer patch for a few years, so unfortunately I have some experience.

Usually it starts to die from the tip of the blade. It will appear darker and wilted in the late afternoon, with the affected areas between you and the sun. Sometimes you can syringe it in the evenings, and hold off progression with AMS and 3336, but it’s temporary.

All of my spots started as separate frog eye shaped spots that over the last few years have coalesced.

This doesn’t really look like what I’ve seen, but I could be wrong, only seeing the ending point.

 

Next morning my lawn looked funky after rain and high humidity

Summer patch causes roots to decline, the shoots just doesn’t decline overnight after a rain. If anything the rain would slow the decline from summer patch. I don’t think this is summer patch.

It looks like the edges are more affected than the center. Are you shutting(closing) off the spreader when you make your turns or are you leaving the spreader open? Does your spreader have an edge guard?

Edit: Do you have one of the Scott’s spreader that is known to over fertilize in between the wheels?

 

This looks like a possible spreader issue.

 

Cheap Scott's spreader,mis labeled fertilizer bag and the damage is done. But how do I re seed this since dimension was applied that stops all seed from germination?

 

I had a similar problem last year.
applied 19-0-7 with dimensions and a week later I had a fungus issue in a small area .
i kept breaking up the dirt and spreading seed eventually I did get some growth enough to get me through this year.
im planning a 2025 over haul so I accepted what I had this season

 

A lot of it will fill in over the fall. What does not fill will next spring. You can plug to expedite the process.

 

I would guess a few things in combination for the shape and coverage.

Closer to a paved area, maybe shallow dirt and rocks, so the root system is not as deep; soil/air temps hotter?
I also suspect pests are eating at the roots.

Sure, it could be overapplication, but that is an odd shape. The rate I saw on the bag was 3.2 lbs / 1000 sq ft, which is .64 lb/s of N. 0.48 is fast-release urea, and 0.16 is controlled-release PCU. The question/answer I might have missed is how much was put down.

It is okay to use the spreader calculations IF your spreader is properly calibrated. Most people don't do this, and spreaders often get out of calibration. For safety, I will chime in with a few others and agree it is better to weigh out your application and apply it in a way that checks/tests your spreader calibration.

Finally, it could be fungus. Maybe the extra N and the wet/humid temperatures caused this. Is this the leftover result of pythium? I would grab a sample and submit it to your local extension office.

Re-seeding can be fine if needed, but you'll need to do deep scarifying/light tilling or replace some soil. Maybe consider sod for the size?

 

I'm not sure if this is related to your issue or not but I did a small KBG reno a few years ago (see sig) and it was phenomenal the first year... But as I thought to myself during that reno, I may have put too much seed down. I think I did put too much seed down and overcrowding was a part of why my 100% KBG area struggled to stay healthy. It seems if you put down the right amount of KBG seed, it really shouldn't look great until at least 12 months later (it should be thin to start with).

 

It was really healthy and thriving the whole summer filing in and maturing on target. The damage was done with the fertilizer/ dimension application that really throws a monkey wrench into the situation I can't re seed because of the dimension stops all seed from germination

 

PreM usually doesn’t stop germination, but stops the development of the roots and shoots after germination. These products tend to bind to the soil so they write notes that disturbing the top surface soil will break the PreM barrier and allow for germination. If you are able to do this in the affected areas (cultivation, tilling a few inches), you may be fine to re-plant/re-seed/sod.

 

Orem usually doesn’t stop germination, but stops the development of the roots and shoots after germination. These products tend to bind to the soil so they write notes that disturbing the top surface soil will break the PreM barrier and allow for germination. If you are able to do this in the affected areas (cultivation, tilling a few inches), you may be fine to re-plant/re-seed/sod.

I have one big area I might dig a about 4 inches down flip the soil mix it good , level then seed the small areas I'll plug