From one 419 yard to another... Welcome to TLF!

I would work with what you have. Tifway 419 will spread pretty quickly once the warm weather kicks in as long as you take care of any shade issues. I'd go ahead and put down some pre-emergent now and then just keep an eye on the Bermuda for green up. All that green in the foreground of your photo looks like it may be poa annua. That will die off naturally once it gets hot. Check out the Bermuda Bible and ask any questions along the way.

 

Thanks for the info red!

It looks like my biggest enemy is shade. I'll take care of the trees this next week and go from there. I may plug in a couple of bare spots with a few pieces of sod to help things along, but I'll save so much time not have to re-sod the entire section.

Thanks for letting me know what type of grass was popping up. It spreads a little more every year and like you said, dies off in June.

What about overseeding. I looked at the bible and it only mentions not to overseed with a different type of bermuda. Should I overseed right now?

Thanks!

 

No, definitely don't overseed it. Any seeded variety won't match the 419 in color or texture. The plug idea would work and if given enough sun, fertilizer, and water, it will take off. You can push growth as hard as your mowing schedule will allow. Mow it low and mow it at least twice a week and you will see some great gains. Take lots of pictures so you can see the progress.

A solid pre-emergent program, especially in the fall, will minimize the poa issues.

 

i agree with @redtwin definitely don't overseed, scalp soon and mow frequent, blast it with 1 pound of N per K, once every 5 weeks and keep the pre emergent program you'll see by fall its a much better looking yard. Shade is your enemy you want at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day at minimum do your best to make that happen.

 

Consistency is the name of the game. As long as you fertilize, water and mow regularly your lawn will look very good by the end of the year if not before then. Don't be afraid to ask any questions and you can post them here so all the advice is in one thread. All you need is a mower and a spreader equipment wise and you should be on your way to a nice lawn. Having a 1 or 2 gallon pump sprayer wouldn't be a bad investment either. Once the temps rise you will be surprised at how fast the 419 will spread and thicken up if treated right

 

From one 419 yard to another... Welcome to TLF!

I would work with what you have. Tifway 419 will spread pretty quickly once the warm weather kicks in as long as you take care of any shade issues. I'd go ahead and put down some pre-emergent now and then just keep an eye on the Bermuda for green up. All that green in the foreground of your photo looks like it may be poa annua. That will die off naturally once it gets hot. Check out the Bermuda Bible and ask any questions along the way.

I might even skip pre-em if the prime goal is to get it spreading. I've noticed that my lawn doesn't spread nearly as fast when the pre-em is in effect. The runners do not tack down until the pre-em effect is gone.

Just plan to manage any weeds with post-em spray or manual removal, then do pre-em in the fall to stop winter weeds.

 

What about overseeding. I looked at the bible and it only mentions not to overseed with a different type of bermuda. Should I overseed right now?

Thanks!

I would consider taking plugs from healthy areas and planting them in the bare areas. Ensures a perfect match and they fill in quick, even if you plant them in a 12" x 12" pattern. Check out the ProPlugger for a plugging tool.

 

Thanks all for talking me out of sod!

Tomorrow I plan on going to town on my Live Oak's. They need to be pruned desperately.

I just remembered that last summer, I also had these small dirt mounds that would pop up everywhere in that section of the yard. Everywhere they popped up, the grass started dying. I have no idea what was creating those and it may be part of the issue.

I do have a spreader. I will hold off on the pre-emergent, but I will be sure to get some fertilizer on it soon. I normally fertilize 2-3 times a year, but I've never looked at what I'm putting down other than whether or not it's safe for bermuda.

Here is a picture of the opposite side and it's thick and perfect during the summer!

 

Use pre emergent where you have healthy grass. Don't use pre emergent on the grow in sections. To speed up the process pull some sprigs and transplant them. Screwdriver method works exceptionally well. It will take 2-4 weeks for the sprigs to develop roots before it spreads. More sunlight the better!

Edit: you could use 0.2 oz per thousand rate (1/4 rate) of prodiamine on the grow in section. It will wear off quicker, won't be as hard on the Bermuda roots and provide some protection against summer annuals.

 

I just remembered that last summer, I also had these small dirt mounds that would pop up everywhere in that section of the yard. Everywhere they popped up, the grass started dying. I have no idea what was creating those and it may be part of the issue.

If they look like the picture below then they are worm castings. Usually a good indicator of healthy soil and shouldn't be anything to worry about. Just knock them down with your foot or a rake every now and then.

 

If the dirt mounds look like something burrowing under the soil then they are probably mole crickets. I use regular treatments of Bifenthrin but you can go get anything from the big box stores (like Triazicide) to treat them. It will take several regular repeat treatments to get them under control. The photo above (worm castings) is a good sign and shouldn't kill your turf.

I will try to take a photo tomorrow and post here. There are mole crickets aplenty in my neighborhood.

 

I just remembered that last summer, I also had these small dirt mounds that would pop up everywhere in that section of the yard. Everywhere they popped up, the grass started dying. I have no idea what was creating those and it may be part of the issue.

If they look like the picture below then they are worm castings. Usually a good indicator of healthy soil and shouldn't be anything to worry about. Just knock them down with your foot or a rake every now and then.

I get HUNDReds of these dumb things. Whats the best way to get rid of so many worms???

 

I don't have a answer for that. I was just happy to have soil that they approved of. If you catch them with a rake when dry they disappear with minimal effort. It's just part of my routine now whether pre-mow or while doing sanitation work behind the dog.

If I were to never do this it would be out of control but doing it a couple times a week it never really gets out of hand or feels like much a chore.

 

I get HUNDReds of these dumb things. Whats the best way to get rid of so many worms???

I used to use a shop broom to brush them out before mowing. @ZeonJNix showed me that a lawn level works way better. It cuts the time down significantly so I'm a little more tolerant of their poop piles. I have treated my yard with monthly Bifenthrin apps during the season to control webworms, mole crickets, and mosquitos but started adding quarterly apps of Imidacloprid and I have seen a pretty decent reduction in worm castings. They are still there but not crazy like before. They are so good for the soil I really don't want to completely eliminate them.

I have also read on recent threads that a lime application might put a hurt on them.

 

I get HUNDReds of these dumb things. Whats the best way to get rid of so many worms???

I used to use a shop broom to brush them out before mowing. @ZeonJNix showed me that a lawn level works way better. It cuts the time down significantly so I'm a little more tolerant of their poop piles. I have treated my yard with monthly Bifenthrin apps during the season to control webworms, mole crickets, and mosquitos but started adding quarterly apps of Imidacloprid and I have seen a pretty decent reduction in worm castings. They are still there but not crazy like before. They are so good for the soil I really don't want to completely eliminate them.

I have also read on recent threads that a lime application might put a hurt on them.

Was just reading similar information. It stated that raising the soil pH above 6.0 would help reduce their population.

 

I get HUNDReds of these dumb things. Whats the best way to get rid of so many worms???

I used to use a shop broom to brush them out before mowing. @ZeonJNix showed me that a lawn level works way better. It cuts the time down significantly so I'm a little more tolerant of their poop piles. I have treated my yard with monthly Bifenthrin apps during the season to control webworms, mole crickets, and mosquitos but started adding quarterly apps of Imidacloprid and I have seen a pretty decent reduction in worm castings. They are still there but not crazy like before. They are so good for the soil I really don't want to completely eliminate them.

I have also read on recent threads that a lime application might put a hurt on them.

Yep!! Level rake works great and wider than the broom. I feel like mine are not as bad as the season moves on. Plus my yard is sitting at .250 right now so they are sitting on top of the ground more than they do when it's .50-.75.

 

@drewhiggs Here is a picture of what mole crickets can look like.

 

Fipronil will put a hurt on worms, its also great for fire ants and other sub surface insects. granular form is restricted use, so you have to be licensed to purchase it, but you can get Taurus SC(liquid) without the need for a license and the same AI. I've never really tried to kill earthworms because they are beneficial, but you could also dry Dylox as its a sub surface insecticide.

 

Fipronil is awesome for long-term fire ant control but I have only used it once and hired a professional to put it down. The name brand was Top Choice.

 

@Alphaone There are no liquid fipronil products labeled for turfgrass that I am aware, including Termidor or it's generic equivalent, Taurus. I am sure the liquid fipronil works great, but to my knowledge it is not to be used in the lawn.

 

Once you start tree trimming, it's hard to stop! My wife hates what I've done, but I should have more sun!

Now to fertilize and water.

 

Thanks all for talking me out of sod!

Tomorrow I plan on going to town on my Live Oak's. They need to be pruned desperately.

I just remembered that last summer, I also had these small dirt mounds that would pop up everywhere in that section of the yard. Everywhere they popped up, the grass started dying. I have no idea what was creating those and it may be part of the issue.

I do have a spreader. I will hold off on the pre-emergent, but I will be sure to get some fertilizer on it soon. I normally fertilize 2-3 times a year, but I've never looked at what I'm putting down other than whether or not it's safe for bermuda.

Here is a picture of the opposite side and it's thick and perfect during the summer!

Don't forget to seal your cuts on those live oaks. If you don't, that's how oak wilt can get into them. Also be sure that if you're using a chainsaw that has been used on other oaks (red, live, etc.) it gets doused in alcohol to kill any wilt that may be on there. I know it sounds paranoid, but wilt can travel really easily and destroy a whole neighborhoods live/red oak populations pretty quickly. I would also say that going forward, you should avoid pruning live oaks from February to June. Here's a good link on managing oak wilt from A&M.
https://texasoakwilt.org/oakwilt/oak-wilt-management