[Redtwin]

I was just about to ask when you got the dog. Aussie, right?

 

[Redtwin]

You coverage looks good! Sorry I couldn't make it over to help out. I worked a swim meet all weekend. I can't wait to see that T31 take off!

 

[Redtwin]

Nice beer choice! BTW... I don't think your sago by the back patio made it through that last cold snap. I agree that a catch basin will solve that issue.

 

[Redtwin]

I think you could do it now. You might hit the reset button on the sprigs in that area but I think in the long run it would be fine. Maybe @WillyT or @Chadwicktr could clarify.

 

[Redtwin]

You won't regret going with an 8-foot fence even with the best of neighbors.

 

[Redtwin]

I think my “current” might say that about me.

 

[Redtwin]

I have heard several times about mole crickets developing resistance to bifenthrin but I have not noticed... yet. I will usually augment with Triazicide if I see any activity between Bifen apps but that's usually because of ants, not mole crickets. They were particularly bad this spring for me but I think I have them under control. I also mix my Imidacloprid apps with my regular Tnex, urea, and whatever applications. I think once my Bifen XTS runs out I will rotate to Fipronil (Taurus SC). I once rotated to Permethrin but didn't like the results. It didn't slow down the ants at all. I know Fipronil works great on ants, even fire ants. We'll see how it handles mole crickets.

 

[Redtwin]

You'll find that the mole will start to avoid your yard once the root mass gets thicker. I only have them in my mulch beds because it's easier for them to tunnel through it. There are probably more bugs and worms in the mulch as well. I've also noticed that my scissor traps don't work well unless there is solid turf underneath. They don't do well in mulch or sandy areas with thinner grass. I hope you get him soon or he just gets tired of fighting the bermuda roots.

 

[Redtwin]

Are you raking those thick spots daily? I'd try to get some green poking through and work the sand into the turf a bit.

 

[Redtwin]

I didn't even think about the drum creating the washboard. I had that happen on part of my Empire at one point. If that is the case, a solid verticut in the spring will help knock the sand around and level it out a bit.

 

[Redtwin]

I think your dog pees 100% pure ammonium sulfate.

 

[Redtwin]

I'm more interested in the mix on the table in the background. 🤪

 

[Redtwin]

I bet it was the Sulfentrazone. I did the same to my bermuda a while back but way worse because I used a surfactant. It'll bounce right back.

 

[Redtwin]

Looks like bahiagrass creeping in.

 

[Redtwin]

I ask because I may be missing on my own application. I thought XTS applications for lawns recommended 0.15oz per K at the high point?

Page 16 of the label allows rates up to .30oz/1000sf for treatment of fire ants and Japanese beetles. Fire ants is one of the multitude of pests we deal with in Florida. I usually apply at .25oz/1000sf just to make the math easy.

 

[Redtwin]

I'm thinking you need to get a mower with a groomer and set it super aggressive. Double cutting each mow would also help but that gets old quickly.

 

[Redtwin]

On another note... those rock beds are SWEET!!! 🔥🔥🔥

 

[Redtwin]

Is it February already? I think you're right about needing to do it two or three times throughout the season.

 

[Redtwin]

I did the same thing using the numbers from @Mightyquinn related to AI in Top Choice. I ended up bumping it up a little just for ease of measurement using the cup that came with the Taurus jug. I think I went with .08 since the markers were showing .4oz and .8oz. I used .4oz mixed in 5 gallons and it has been just as effective as Imidacloprid in my experience.

 

[Redtwin]

You sprayed .50 LB of N/1000 with 46-0-0? Is that a pretty high rate? I was spraying .20 LB/1000 and anything higher would burn the grass.

You can go significantly higher with urea than with ammonium sulfate. I wouldn't apply AS any higher than .25lbs N/1000sf but urea you can go pretty heavy.