[Wile]

I'm a bit confused about how long afterwards I should water. Let it stay on as long as possible? Irrigate after 4 or 6hrs? Irrigate the next day?
Low long should I wait before I mow?
What pH should the solution be? I have no Idea what my water pH is but I can test it. Citric Acid to adjust the pH?
What color should the solution be? Rust colored? Blue/green? Red?
Should I add a surfactant? Nonionic surfactant? Baby shampoo? How much?

I would shoot for a pH closer to 6 (get a pen pH tester). That should give it plenty of time to be taken in before the ground, environment, etc turns it an oxide. If you have city water, it is likely a high pH (>7.0) so that lead and heavy metals do not leach into the drinking water. When I did my application this year I added a lot more citric acid and it was more blue-green than orange once I added enough CA. I would add a non-ionic surfactant (follow label recommendation) and use a fine mist fan spray. I follow what I learned on TLF which is to let everything sit for a minimum of 4hrs. There is a rapid drop off in intake after 4hrs and then I just water the rest in. I try to mow first and spray after so I can enjoy the color and the mow for longer. Avoid iron during drought or in the middle of the day too.

edit: ph greater than 7.0

 

[adidasUNT8]

I am using AMS and Urea for Nitrogen and Main Event with my PGR apps. I prefer the Main Event/Feature over the FAS due to the fact that it doesn't stain the concrete.

Thank you sir. Do you know what your PH is? I'm almost positive my mixture is above 8ph and from everything i've read it's hindering the benefits of the iron. I do have residuals in the bottom of the bucket even when mixing in hot water for several minutes. The mixture does turn orange instead of the desired greenish blue. Citric Acid and ph meter will be here tomorrow. I'll be doing second app of PGR tomorrow as well. What rate are you spraying at? I heard of people doing over an ounce per 1k, which seems crazy to me.

 

[Mightyquinn]

My soil pH is around 6.0 and my water is 7.0. I am applying T-Nex at .25oz/M but my grass is cut at .300".

 

[Scagfreedom48z+]

I purchased a 50# bag of soluble Ferrous sulfate Monohydrate 30% FE. I’ve used heptahydrate in the past @ 2oz per 1k but it was too expensive to continue to use for my FAS apps. Anyone know what a safe sprayable amount of the monohydrate I could use since it’s a higher % of iron?

 

[Scagfreedom48z+]

@palum19 it works, just adjust your rate to accommodate the higher iron content.

Gman, I scrolled through and noticed your post.
I have ferrous monohydrate due to the price of heptahydrate. I was putting down 2 oz per 1k of the hep. I purchased the soluble monohydrate and I’m looking for guidance on how much I could out down per 1k safely, since there’s a higher FE %. Also would I still need to add AS?

 

[Scagfreedom48z+]

Anyone?

 

[Wile]

Gman, I scrolled through and noticed your post.
I have ferrous monohydrate due to the price of heptahydrate. I was putting down 2 oz per 1k of the hep. I purchased the soluble monohydrate and I’m looking for guidance on how much I could out down per 1k safely, since there’s a higher FE %. Also would I still need to add AS?

Not a chemist and unsure on the different formulations, but for the rest of the question:

I would think you would want to spray based on the cool season rates in this guide which are figured at the 20% iron content of heptahydrate (I'm going off memory here). Also, you would want to buffer your water pH if you have hard water or ph 7 or greater. That will turn the solution into rust and be unavailable for the plant. Buffering down to a pH between 6-7 will allow the plant to take it in and elemental factors will not render it inert as quickly. FS is acidic too, but you can use some ammonium sulfate first (calcium binds to this) and then get the mix down with just a bit of citric acid if the pH is still too high.

Using the 2oz hepta (.4oz ai) with monohydrate it would be something like 1.3oz or (.4oz ai). Double check my math...

 

[Scagfreedom48z+]

Not a chemist and unsure on the different formulations, but for the rest of the question:

I would think you would want to spray based on the cool season rates in this guide which are figured at the 20% iron content of heptahydrate (I'm going off memory here). Also, you would want to buffer your water pH if you have hard water or ph 7 or greater. That will turn the solution into rust and be unavailable for the plant. Buffering down to a pH between 6-7 will allow the plant to take it in and elemental factors will not render it inert as quickly. FS is acidic too, but you can use some ammonium sulfate first (calcium binds to this) and then get the mix down with just a bit of citric acid if the pH is still too high.

Using the 2oz hepta (.4oz ai) with monohydrate it would be something like 1.3oz or (.4oz ai). Double check my math...

Thanks for responding. I actually was able to return the mono and just bought hepta. It’s a rip off but I wasn’t going to take the chance with mono

 

[aalbert8888]

I've been using this solution for many years with pretty good success on my Tifway lawn. This stuff is similar to the Iron sprays you can buy but it is much cheaper to make it yourself and the products are easily available on eBay. Spraying this solution will help give your lawn a deeper darker green and will generally last a few weeks. This is what you will need.

Ferrous Sulfate(Iron)

Ammonium Sulfate

One of THESE will come in handy to mix it all together.

For every 1K of lawn you will want to mix 4oz of Ferrous Sulfate, 3.4oz of Ammonium Sulfate in 1 Gallon of water. I usually mix it in a 5 gallon bucket of HOT water as it will dissolve faster and easier than it will with cold water. In that 5 gallon bucket, I will mix everything for 8K of lawn in one shot and then dilute it in the sprayer tank.

You will want to spray this in the evening when it isn't as hot outside to reduce the chance of burning your lawn(I have never had an issue with it). You will want to leave it on your lawn for as long as you can. I usually spray it the night before my irrigation is set to go off. I have gotten into the habit of mixing this with my PGR app every 3 weeks as it seems to be perfect timing for applying the stuff.

I wouldn't worry about the 21-0-0 in the Ammonium Sulfate as you are applying such a small amount that it shouldn't have any effect on your overall Nitrogen applications. The Ammonium Sulfate is in the solution to help give it a faster and more intense green up and CAN be omitted if you choose. I have never sprayed without it so YMMV(Your Milage May Very).

The Ferrous Sulfate is the MAIN ingredient for the dark green color.

The Ammonium Sulfate basically acts as a booster for the Ferrous Sulfate and will enhance/speed up the greening process.

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Bermuda Lawn
4.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.8oz of Fe)
3.4 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Cool Season Lawn
2.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.4oz of Fe)
1.7 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)
Avoid the iron on the leaves in summer temperatures.

Edits: add cool season rates to avoid a black lawn.

US2813014A - Plant tonic consisting of ammonium sulfate, ferrous sulfate, and citric acid - Google Patents

 

[aalbert8888]

I've been using this solution for many years with pretty good success on my Tifway lawn. This stuff is similar to the Iron sprays you can buy but it is much cheaper to make it yourself and the products are easily available on eBay. Spraying this solution will help give your lawn a deeper darker green and will generally last a few weeks. This is what you will need.

Ferrous Sulfate(Iron)

Ammonium Sulfate

One of THESE will come in handy to mix it all together.

For every 1K of lawn you will want to mix 4oz of Ferrous Sulfate, 3.4oz of Ammonium Sulfate in 1 Gallon of water. I usually mix it in a 5 gallon bucket of HOT water as it will dissolve faster and easier than it will with cold water. In that 5 gallon bucket, I will mix everything for 8K of lawn in one shot and then dilute it in the sprayer tank.

You will want to spray this in the evening when it isn't as hot outside to reduce the chance of burning your lawn(I have never had an issue with it). You will want to leave it on your lawn for as long as you can. I usually spray it the night before my irrigation is set to go off. I have gotten into the habit of mixing this with my PGR app every 3 weeks as it seems to be perfect timing for applying the stuff.

I wouldn't worry about the 21-0-0 in the Ammonium Sulfate as you are applying such a small amount that it shouldn't have any effect on your overall Nitrogen applications. The Ammonium Sulfate is in the solution to help give it a faster and more intense green up and CAN be omitted if you choose. I have never sprayed without it so YMMV(Your Milage May Very).

The Ferrous Sulfate is the MAIN ingredient for the dark green color.

The Ammonium Sulfate basically acts as a booster for the Ferrous Sulfate and will enhance/speed up the greening process.

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Bermuda Lawn
4.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.8oz of Fe)
3.4 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Cool Season Lawn
2.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.4oz of Fe)
1.7 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)
Avoid the iron on the leaves in summer temperatures.

Edits: add cool season rates to avoid a black lawn.

The ratio of ferrous sulfate, ammonium sulfate, and citric acid in a plant tonic can vary depending on the soil, alkalinity, and type of plant being treated. A typical ratio is 1 part citric acid, 4.6 parts ammonium sulfate, and 22.75 parts ferrous sulfate. The acid and salts can be sold dry and dissolved in water.... One way to mix as an example... About 8oz of regular ferrous sulphate...about 1/2 oz of ammonium sulphate...and 1-2 teaspoons of granular food grade citric acid powder...make liquid solution of each base separately by boiling a tea kettle with water...mix each ingredient with the boiling water in separate solutions...then use and eletric tea kettle outdoors, mix the liquid solutions together and boil for 30 mins... then use a metal fine mesh filter for reducing sediment...then use the mix in 5 gallons of filtered water...then use a cordless power cleaner (around 320 psi) with fine mesh dongle on 10 ft lead hose...sprayer so that the lawn is thoroughly misted....experiment on a patch of lawn until you get the recipe in correct quantities .... If too strong...can turn lawns black or burn the lawn. too week, no results?

 

[aalbert8888]

The ratio of ferrous sulfate, ammonium sulfate, and citric acid in a plant tonic can vary depending on the soil, alkalinity, and type of plant being treated. A typical ratio is 1 part citric acid, 4.6 parts ammonium sulfate, and 22.75 parts ferrous sulfate. The acid and salts can be sold dry and dissolved in water.... One way to mix as an example... About 8oz of regular ferrous sulphate...about 1/2 oz of ammonium sulphate...and 1-2 teaspoons of granular food grade citric acid powder...make liquid solution of each base separately by boiling a tea kettle with water...mix each ingredient with the boiling water in separate solutions...then use and eletric tea kettle outdoors, mix the liquid solutions together and boil for 30 mins... then use a metal fine mesh filter for reducing sediment...then use the mix in 5 gallons of filtered water...then use a cordless power cleaner (around 320 psi) with fine mesh dongle on 10 ft lead hose...sprayer so that the lawn is thoroughly misted....experiment on a patch of lawn until you get the recipe in correct quantities .... If too strong...can turn lawns black or burn the lawn. too week, no results?

Try this at your own risk, I am no expert...this mix should be considered chelated....which give the plants a broken down form of ferrous sulphate...don.t boil any mixture indoors

 

[aalbert8888]

I've been using this solution for many years with pretty good success on my Tifway lawn. This stuff is similar to the Iron sprays you can buy but it is much cheaper to make it yourself and the products are easily available on eBay. Spraying this solution will help give your lawn a deeper darker green and will generally last a few weeks. This is what you will need.

Ferrous Sulfate(Iron)

Ammonium Sulfate

One of THESE will come in handy to mix it all together.

For every 1K of lawn you will want to mix 4oz of Ferrous Sulfate, 3.4oz of Ammonium Sulfate in 1 Gallon of water. I usually mix it in a 5 gallon bucket of HOT water as it will dissolve faster and easier than it will with cold water. In that 5 gallon bucket, I will mix everything for 8K of lawn in one shot and then dilute it in the sprayer tank.

You will want to spray this in the evening when it isn't as hot outside to reduce the chance of burning your lawn(I have never had an issue with it). You will want to leave it on your lawn for as long as you can. I usually spray it the night before my irrigation is set to go off. I have gotten into the habit of mixing this with my PGR app every 3 weeks as it seems to be perfect timing for applying the stuff.

I wouldn't worry about the 21-0-0 in the Ammonium Sulfate as you are applying such a small amount that it shouldn't have any effect on your overall Nitrogen applications. The Ammonium Sulfate is in the solution to help give it a faster and more intense green up and CAN be omitted if you choose. I have never sprayed without it so YMMV(Your Milage May Very).

The Ferrous Sulfate is the MAIN ingredient for the dark green color.

The Ammonium Sulfate basically acts as a booster for the Ferrous Sulfate and will enhance/speed up the greening process.

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Bermuda Lawn
4.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.8oz of Fe)
3.4 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)

Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate for every 1K of Cool Season Lawn
2.0 oz of Ferrous Sulfate (0.4oz of Fe)
1.7 oz of Ammonium Sulfate
1 Gallon of Water(preferably Hot or Warm)
Avoid the iron on the leaves in summer temperatures.

Edits: add cool season rates to avoid a black lawn.

If you buy the bulk 50 lbs bag of ferrous sulphate...be aware that it is not yet chelated....you need food grade citric acid powder or anhydrous citric acid to Chelate the ferrous sulphate...as well as ammonium sulphate...any suggestions on mix ratios?... I tried 4 oz citric acid dissolved in a small amount of boiling water from tea kettle into small bucket...and dissolve 40 oz of ferrous with 8oz ammonium in 5 gallon bucket dissolved with tea kettle water...when the liquid is solution mix together in 5 gallon bucket...should turn a dark green color...you want to make sure the water is hot when mixing...let sit for 30 mins...your through hops strainer 300 mesh to get rid of sediments...this will be a concentrate mix of around 2-4 gallons...then you need to test the dilution in different mixes on a patch of grass

 

[Grassobession]

Huh...... Can you do all this while jumping on one foot with a finger on your nose?

 

[Tolken]

Okay I read alot of this thread.
Im located in Ontario canada. I have no idea Wheres the best place to purchase the following.

Citric acid
Ammonium sulfate
Ferrous sulfate

My lawn is 10k sqr ft Kbg.

I've looked around and amazon seems very expensive. I'm not able to find a one stop shop for now. Any suggestions?

 

[ChaseC123]

Okay I read alot of this thread.
Im located in Ontario canada. I have no idea Wheres the best place to purchase the following.

Citric acid
Ammonium sulfate
Ferrous sulfate

My lawn is 10k sqr ft Kbg.

I've looked around and amazon seems very expensive. I'm not able to find a one stop shop for now. Any suggestions?

Citric acid is available in the "Canning" section of stores like Walmart. AMS is available at Farm stores (not sure about Canada). Ferrous Sulfate, I purchased mine from Ace Hardware. Check a gardening store.

 

[Tolken]

Citric acid is available in the "Canning" section of stores like Walmart. AMS is available at Farm stores (not sure about Canada). Ferrous Sulfate, I purchased mine from Ace Hardware. Check a gardening store.

Awesome thankyou.
I've managed to source each of the above items from a few different places online. Not sure when they will arrive.

Can you make a concentrate chelated iron solution that you can store for a few seasons?
If so what are the rates to add to your backpack sprayer?
Thanks!

 

[ciprian.petre19]

I am in the dark with some conflicting info found on the web. Many sources are recommending iron sulfate at a lot more than 2oz per k/sqm. Even as high as 16oz. What is the correct rate and also the maximum effect doses for cool season lawns?

 

[g-man]

Follow the first post in this thread and you will be safe. That's what most of us do. You can see our lawns in our profiles.

 

[ciprian.petre19]

Follow the first post in this thread and you will be safe. That's what most of us do. You can see our lawns in our profiles.

Can I replace the 1.7 oz of Ammonium Sulfate with 0.8 oz urea? I have a lot of it right now. Also, I'd replace the sulfate with some chelated version to avoid stains, is that doable? For the foliar app does it matter if the chelate is EDTA, EDDHA etc? I know it matters for soil ph but does it matter for the foliar app?
Also, how often should I do this foliar app for a constant darker lawn? If I understand correctly, best would be to spray in evening and irigate in early morning, around 6-8 hours for the mix to stay on the blades should be enough?

Thanks!

 

[Lawn Whisperer]

I am in the dark with some conflicting info found on the web. Many sources are recommending iron sulfate at a lot more than 2oz per k/sqm. Even as high as 16oz. What is the correct rate and also the maximum effect doses for cool season lawns?

It’s 2oz per k/sqft (square feet) not sqm (square meters) and based on the iron sulfate of 20% a.i.