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California Trimmer Reel Mower Questions

300K views 971 replies 170 participants last post by  Weedy  
I just inherited (borrowed-ish) a Trimmer lawn mower 20" from my grandfather-in-law. It will probably end up being mine as I don't see him using it now that he's in a house that has fescue. At 90, he's still mowing his own lawn which is impressive on its own. It's a 1985 and we were able to get it up and going. I just sent it to the shop to have the reel sharpened and the engine looked over because it sat for some time (15 years) and has some parts that need to be replaced. The guy at the shop mentioned that I may at some point want to get a 7 blade for the mower. They run about $300. My question for you all is what is the benefit to a 7 blade vs a 5 blade? Also, is it worth the $300 to invest in a mower this old?
 
SGrabs33 said:
I am a CalTrimmer dealer and can check on the price I could get for you on a new REEL. If you were to replace the reel you should also replace the bearings while your at it. You right that 300 bucks would be quite a bit when a new one retails for around 1049.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I would love to see some pics of the REEL if you have any!
I just got it back today. I thought they spray painted it but they said they just cleaned it. Not in bad shape for being 33 years old. I'd love to know if your price is different than the shop for a 7 blade. I don't know that I could install it myself though. They said they tuned it up and it runs better than when it was new because they put some spring in the top part to regulate something. You can see it in the last picture a little bit. I don't know squat about motors so I'll take their word for it. Here's the pictures.









 
Rule11 said:
The 25" is in 1/16" scales and the HO 20" is in 1/8". That's why I say 1/2" in the back and 7/16" in the front next year.
Is there a scale on your mower or do you have something to measure it with? I'm going to adjust the height on mine but I was just going to eyeball what looked good on my grass. Is there a way to me more accurate without buying a measuring device? I didn't see anything on my Trimmer mower but is a 1985.
 
raymond said:
How much would yall pay for a used used 7 reel 25 inch CT? Honda engine... no roller... rust on reel... worn but not much rust on body... probably an older model since the pay is more of an army green than the newer evergreen paint.
You can find the year by looking at the model number. I can't remember exactly how but if you google it, you can find some guy telling you exactly what the model numbers are for the year on gardenweb. That's how I found out mine was an '85.
 
Yesterday my front yard now with Bermuda was mowed for the first time. My husband mowed it for me due to our upcoming arrival of baby #2 so this is second hand info but... He said it was extremely difficult to go up the hill in our yard and maneuver the mower around. The grass was dry when mowed. I know there are some of us here that have some pretty steep hills @Cory has that ditch and I think there have been some others. He was thinking that maybe our drive wheel is too worn down to propel the mower. The mower is 34 years old so it's not unthinkable that the tread may have seen better days. Can anyone comment on whether that would be the issue here? I've attached pictures of our hill (older pictures but same steepness) and the tread on the drive wheel.










 
Cory said:
@Bermuda_Newbie it does look a bit slick but Not sure if that's what the problem is. It does look like it wouldn't hurt to replace it though, the treads on mine are more of a soft rubber yours looks hard. Could it be hanging up on the the bumps in between the sod? What hight is it set at? I can't mow with mine set lower than 5/8" because the bedknife will drag on the crest of my ditch.
My husband said it slides like the grass is wet even though it wasn't. It wasn't getting stuck on the sod lines which aren't as pronounce now than they were. He said he wanted to try lowering it before we bought a new drive wheel. I found one on eBay for $140. I don't want to spend the money on it but I'm concerned that lowering it will just gouge the lawn. I don't know what height of cut it was set at since I didn't cut it. I told him to go as low as he could since it was the first mow. He said no scraping like you experienced but your ditch is really steep. He wants to try gluing some tire tread on it. I'm not a fan of this idea.
 
SGrabs33 said:
@Bermuda_Newbie the cost for a new one should be cheaper than 140. Also, you said that your model was quite old. The older models have an 8 inch rear roller while the newer ones have a 9 inch.
Do you think the roller could be the issue? I hate to spend the money if it's just going to keep happening. What do you think of jerry-rigging some tread over it? I'd love a quote by the way if you can get me one.
 
Cory said:
@Bermuda_Newbie it looks like it has markes on it from spinning. Ask him if he tilts back on the handle if it will take off. The chain that lifts the drum could possibly be too short. That chain doesn't look like it's original.

Sheesh, sorry for all the edits, typos killing me haha
The chain isn't original or at least I don't think it is and was shortened a little because it was digging into the ground and causing marks. That's something we'll try first. He did mention that it was just spinning if it was lowered more. I haven't had the same issue mowing in the backyard but it's flat. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to mow myself for the next month or so.
 
hefegrass said:
well, i have a brand new california trimmer with a nice treaded roller and im currently shopping for a rotary mower because this trimmer will not go up hills. i have the front roller, it doesnt help and possibly hurts on the hills since it takes more weight off the rear drive wheel. I really hope once my lawn fully grows in it will have traction on the hills.
What does it do when you try and go up the hill? Do you have to push it or is it just hard to maneuver?
 
@Gksdudrms

Mine is both loud and vibrates a fair amount. I use gloves and earplugs and it cuts down on both and makes it usable. It is a big difference coming from a manual. I also had a manual (Fiskars) before I got my grandfather-in-law's 35 year old mower. The cut though is so much better.

If you have a landscape blade for noise comparison, it is quieter than the landscape blade.
 
@Cory thanks! Do you think it's the reel that needs adjusting? I'll take a look at it. The chain that was replaced by my grandpa with what looks like piano chain is getting replaced today since it's breaking. I am mowing my front yard today so I'll be able to see if that fixes some of the noise but I'll have to check out the reel and bed knife if it doesn't fix it. Just like the other guy, it came back from the shop like this so maybe it's just because it's old.
 
Cory said:
@Bermuda_Newbie it will be ok, I just prefer mine not grinding together so much. The more you use it the more the metals will wear down and it won't be as loud.
After mowing my front yard this evening, I realized the noise is from the grass catcher vibrating on the metal bar. My reel is actually ok with it's position. I don't think there is a fix for my grass catcher since it looks like the hooks have seen better days. I guess I could buy a new grass catcher but other than scalping, I'm trying to mow often enough that I don't need it.
 
This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?

Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.
 
Cory said:
Bermuda_Newbie said:
This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?

Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.
I keep explaining it but how about a video
:thumbup:

It still cuts paper and I'm barely pulling it or pushing it. I like it set this way because I don't have to lift the drive drum ever.
You're awesome! I was trying to move the blade with my foot and I had to practically step on it to get it to move. That didn't seem right to me. I finally figured out why it wasn't working on the hill. It wasn't the traction, the chain was messed up to the drive wheel so now it freely rolls when the drive wheel is up. It definitely doesn't spin though. I'll adjust it this evening when it is cooler. In the past, I've been lazy about the bed knife to reel situation but I think between the tightness and the sand from leveling, my blade is quite dull. Live and learn! At least it's on an old mower that was free. I would hate to be learning on a fancy one or one that I paid for. Thanks again!
 
Where would be a good place to purchase a replacement bedknife? My 4 year old planned a trap of rocks in my grass that was missed. The bedknife snapped and now I'm midscalp and need a replacement. I looked on ebay and there's one for $42. Does that seem like a reasonable price?