Lawn Care Forum banner

Bermuda - on the right track

2 reading
1K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  Katodude  
#1 ·
Laid new Bermuda sod July 1. Watered it twice daily, looking great now, but pretty bumpy.

I applied a starter fertilizer, probably a bit later than I should have (2 weeks after), and cut back on watering M/W/F 25 mins early mornings each zone to try to make establish deeper roots.

Using a robomower, cutting twice a week to 1.8".

Got a TON of Nutsedge popping up through one area, likely from previous lawn. Plan on treating it at the 5 week mark with Ortho nutsedge spray.

Moving forward, I want to make sure I'm on the right track to have a solid lawn. I have a dog and two kids, so there's that struggle, but this sure beats Centipede for that kind of stuff.

Coastal Northeast South Carolina full sun. Awaiting soil test results back from Clemson.

I know it needs ~1" rain/week.

1. When can I sand level?
2. Full yard, or only specific areas?
3. Mason sand, top soil, both?
4. What kind of fert / pest / weed schedule & products do you recommend?
5. I've seen some folks using chicken feed and some sort of carbon as a fertilizer, is that a legit/recommended thing?

Would gladly take any other input from those in the know.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
1. You can Level now if you want
2. Full Yard( might want to scalp first at your HOC)
3. Masonry Sand
4. Go with just Nitrogen(Urea 46-0-0 or Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0) Unless soil test shows you are extremely low on something important
5. Chicken Feed, Humic or anything "Carbon" is mostly just marketing jargon to get you to buy stuff that will do very little if anything for your lawn. Just know that Urea is 20% Carbon all by itself and you are growing grass NOT Soil, so don't buy into this whole "building your soil" nonsense. Growing a healthy stand of grass will do more for your soil than any amendment you can add.
 
#3 ·
Just got my soil results back a minute ago. Took two samples (because my house splits the property), but honestly the lot is only .24 acres, and most of that space is taken up by the house or concrete, so I'm kind of surprised at the differences. This was before applying starter fert, so hopefully that didn't make things worse.

South side sample:

Image

Image


North side sample:

Image


Image



Far as 46-0-0...this one good (Lawn Synergy), or is there a better option?...will be doing granular, at least this first year.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Clemson should be a pretty reputable soil test source so the test just shows that you should follow the nitrogen-only plan that @Mightyquinn mentioned above. Your pH is a little high so if you have the option, use Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0) if you can get it. If it's hard to get or pricey, then urea will honestly be just fine.