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Zoysia Lawn Project

11K views 32 replies 9 participants last post by  Greendoc  
#1 ·
Hello, everyone!

I am in the planning stages of starting a new zoysia lawn sometime in either the next season or the season after. I have developed quite a list of questions because I want to put myself in the best position to be successful with the type of lawn I want.

A couple of important notes to consider:

• Location: Northeast Alabama
• I have experience with two types of zoysia: Zeon and Emerald (I think it is Emerald; extremely fine, dense hedgehog feel)
• The area will likely be in full sun or mostly sun.

List of questions/concerns:

1. Which cultivar is the darkest green? Anything close to Kentucky bluegrass?

a. Also, which cultivar has the finest leaves with the spikiest/hedgehog-like texture? Texture is important, but I value color and hardiness more. Zoysia tenuifolia appears to have the texture I am seeking. But, I don't know where to find it or what commonly available hybrids are derived from this subspecies.

b. After researching zoysia varieties further, it seems that Zeon, Emerald, Zorro, or Geo might potentially provide the best compromise of characteristics. But, I'm still not sure. It would be great to look at samples, but that may not be possible.

2. For zoysia in healthy soil, what fertilizer recommendations do you have for regular maintenance?

a. Is there a benefit to using an organic fertilizer, such as Milorganite, as opposed to something else? Milorganite doesn't contain potassium, so I'm not sure what would be the best way to compensate for that.

b. Is having lots of earthworms in the soil something else to think about?

c. Should I be trying to add other supplemental minerals, such as iron and calcium? Is humic acid worth applying?

3. Which selective pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are the best for a zoysia lawn?

a. Weeds I deal with a lot: common Bermuda, crabgrass, clover, wood sorrel, dandelion

4. Is there a reel mower that will cut up the clippings very fine to reduce excessive thatch buildup? I would prefer the grass to be a little taller (mowing height of around two inches).

5. Are there any recommended calendars or schedules that will provide a general guide on when/what order to aerate, fertilize, apply herbicide, etc.?

6. Where are the best places to purchase fertilizer or other lawn products? Sometimes bags of fertilizer are quite heavy, so shipping seems to be an issue with some online retailers I have seen.

a. I have had good results with the Andersons products recently, so if anyone knows the best source for them, please let me know.

I realize there are quite a few variables here, but the type of grass is probably the thing I am most concerned about. The darker, the better. However, I still would like to have that fine/spikey texture if possible. I look forward to working on this project and seeing how it turns out.

What thoughts do you all have?

Thank you for your time!
 
#2 ·
It's almost time...roll tide!

Too many questions for response on mobile.....sorry.

Hardiness...as in what, recovery, disease resistant, or drought stress?

I have zeon and emerald (ran out emerald, completed with zeon in one portion of yard) and side by side, only an academic turf guy might notice. Leaf blade width is a rounding error in comparison. However, stepping on, emerald clearly more cushion .... assume it's more thatch. Doesn't bother me, ball role speed is irrelevant. Emerald and zeon areas I cut it at .75...emerald it's noticeably pricklier that short.
Color, same story but not obvious, zeon I think a degree darker potential. I spray liquid iron.

I have a shaded area where I put Geo prices in a predominantly zeon yard and I can't tell (I just know I did 5 years ago).

Earthworm casings are obvious in zeon under .75 ...emerald, not at all.

All treated with specticle Flo ...no problem. Zeon didn't like the msma.

I have an odd, narrow shape.....liquid apps are more accurate and use wsp SOP.

Thatch build up concerns - catch clippings and don't overfeed N. Greens mowers have better catchers, trucut cal trimmers - poorly designed
 
#3 ·
It's almost time...roll tide!

Too many questions for response on mobile.....sorry.

Hardiness...as in what, recovery, disease resistant, or drought stress?

I have zeon and emerald (ran out emerald, completed with zeon in one portion of yard) and side by side, only an academic turf guy might notice. Leaf blade width is a rounding error in comparison. However, stepping on, emerald clearly more cushion .... assume it's more thatch. Doesn't bother me, ball role speed is irrelevant. Emerald and zeon areas I cut it at .75...emerald it's noticeably pricklier that short.
Color, same story but not obvious, zeon I think a degree darker potential. I spray liquid iron.

I have a shaded area where I put Geo peices in a predominantly zeon yard and I can't tell (I just know I did 5 years ago).

Earthworm casings are obvious in zeon under .75 ...emerald, not at all.

All treated with specticle Flo ...no problem. Zeon didn't like the msma.

I have an odd, narrow shape.....liquid apps are more accurate and use wsp SOP.

Thatch build up concerns - catch clippings and don't overfeed N. Greens mowers have better catchers, trucut cal trimmers - poorly designed
 
#4 ·
I have had three different types of zoysia in Alabama. A couple of things:

Get a soil test

Skip the organic fertilizers -- stupid hippy gimmick :) If you are going to use an organic, just go to a local feed store and buy feed grade soybean meal --it's as good as any other organic and cheaper than the ones labeled for lawns; smells like rotting garbage when it breaks down (so do the "lawn" labeled fertilizers that are rebadged soybean meal like Ringer and Purely Organic) but it will green up the lawn -- eventually...

Prodiamine and Gallery for preemergents, speedzone southern, celsius, certainty, quinclorac, carfentrazone, revolver for post emergents -- lots of others too. All kinds of stuff you can put on zoysia. I haven't had to deal with bermuda in my zoysia, but Greendoc (who is the Yoda of turf grass and a lot of other things too) recommends a mix of Fucillade and triclopyr. Btw, Greendoc is not crazy about zoysia, and I wouldn't be either if I had to maintain more than one lawn of it.

Geo zoysia looks awesome if maintained properly (1.5 inches or lower), and is much more disease resistant than meyer varieties like Empire -- no warm season turf is really dark green compared to cool season grasses like KBG, though, and if you want a really beautiful dark green lawn move to a cool season zone and plant tall fescue or blue grass :)

Make sure micros and K are adequate

Prepare to mow every three days if you want highly maintained (watered and fertilized) zoysia to look great, however Geo puts on top growth much slower than Empire so with that you can probably mow every 4 or 5 days even with a rotary mower if your lawn is flat and still have a great looking lawn

Keep a couple of good fungicides on hand -- PPZ and Azoxy are good for the two issues you will likely deal with: dollar spot and large patch. There are more effective tank mixes, but they are not labeled for residential turf, unfortunately.

You will need a few insecticides -- I like Imidicloprid, it's cheap and works well as a preventative for grubs and billbugs -- and all kinds of other stuff in your landscape like scale, lacebugs, etc. Bifen, Dylox, and Carbaryl are good contact insecticides for fleas, ants, ticks, various destructive worms, mole crickets, etc...

Good luck...
 
#5 ·
@Tide , Thanks for starting this conversation, I am also in planning stages of what I intend to be a Zoysia lawn reno but could turn into a Bermuda reno. My question is this, in terms of cost and quantity what is the better option Zoysia or Bermuda. Due to my location, I am settled on Compadre unless there's a improved cold tolerant option out there. If anyone can provide this info I'll greatly appreciate it.
 
#6 ·
jayhawk said:
It's almost time...roll tide!

Hardiness...as in what, recovery, disease resistant, or drought stress?
Thanks for the advice and Roll Tide! All the different things you mentioned are important, but drought tolerance would probably be my top concern as this will likely be a larger lawn.

Overall, is there any difference between the three in terms of drought tolerance that you can tell?

lambert said:
I have had three different types of zoysia in Alabama. A couple of things:

Prodiamine and Gallery for preemergents, speedzone southern, celsius, certainty, quinclorac, carfentrazone, revolver for post emergents -- lots of others too. All kinds of stuff you can put on zoysia.

Geo zoysia looks awesome if maintained properly (1.5 inches or lower), and is much more disease resistant than meyer varieties like Empire -- no warm season turf is really dark green compared to cool season grasses like KBG, though, and if you want a really beautiful dark green lawn move to a cool season zone and plant tall fescue or blue grass :)
Thanks for the reply! Which of those herbicides do prefer? I find myself inundated with options and would like to be as gentle as possible on the zoysia. I would rather have a few weeds if I can avoid harming the grass. What are your thoughts?

I'm definitely interested in Geo. It looks like one of the darker ones, which I really like. I also recently heard about something called Trinity zoysia. Has anyone heard of this one?
 
#7 ·
Trinity, yes. Try the TLF search function...it's come up but no one here appears to have acquired.

Tolerance to drought is strong, they show stress sooner than Bermuda but bounce back. It's hard to compare between the zoysias in my situation as their environments are different (light, tree competition) so it's not apples to apples
 
#9 ·
All of those herbicides work well, it depends on which weeds you are going after. Celsius and Certainty will take care of most broadleaf weeds and sedges and a few grassy weeds and are both really gentle on zoysia even in higher temps. Greendoc recommends mixing sulfentrazone or carfentrazone (depending on temperature) with either of those two for a much faster kill. Revolver and quinclorac cover a bunch of other grassy weeds if you need them, If you get zoysia thick and healthy weeds are pretty easy to deal with, though, just using preemergents in the late winter and late summer. I use prodiamine in late summer, prodiamine and gallery in late winter and then gallery again early summer. I'm in south Alabama now, but also had an emerald zoysia lawn in Tuscaloosa.
 
#11 ·
jayhawk said:
I think you'd be better off driving around to farms in Alabama, see it in it's natural state. You have time ;)
I agree. I definitely want to visit some turf farms before making a final decision. The main problem is I can't seem to find anyone close to me that supplies Geo Zoysia.

Also, I found this other type today while researching called 'Toccoa Green'. Has anyone heard of this? Here is a link:

http://woernerlandscape.com/sod/toccoa-green/details#right-menu
 
#16 ·
I made a trip to Ewing and scored some GreenTRX fertilizer, which has an NPK ratio of 16-1-2 with 3% iron and 17% sulfur. Until I get a soil test, what does everyone think about GreenTRX? The manager at Ewing told me that this particular fertilizer is derived from sewage and food waste from Disney World.

I'd like to see some Toccoa Green zoysia in person. Some of the photos I've seen of it are amazing.
 
#21 ·
Tide said:
I made a trip to Ewing and scored some GreenTRX fertilizer, which has an NPK ratio of 16-1-2 with 3% iron and 17% sulfur. Until I get a soil test, what does everyone think about GreenTRX? The manager at Ewing told me that this particular fertilizer is derived from sewage and food waste from Disney World.

I'd like to see some Toccoa Green zoysia in person. Some of the photos I've seen of it are amazing.
I used this all last season but I moved to FAS and another fertilizer this season. But it is good stuff easy to put down you almost can't put too much down and it greens really well.
 
#22 ·
Iruse said:
I used this all last season but I moved to FAS and another fertilizer this season. But it is good stuff easy to put down you almost can't put too much down and it greens really well.
Thanks! Do you think the nitrogen percentage is too high for zoysia? Based on my research, a 16-1-2 ratio may not be ideal for it. But, GreenTRX is a cost effective option compared to some of the others I've seen.
 
#23 ·
To select a cultivar, I recommend that you create a candidate list (hopefully a short list) and visit a turf farm where they are grown. Ideally all your candidates would be at the same farm. Make your selection based on how the grass looks in the field, and not on what it looks like on a pallet.
 
#24 ·
LoCutt said:
To select a cultivar, I recommend that you create a candidate list (hopefully a short list) and visit a turf farm where they are grown. Ideally all your candidates would be at the same farm. Make your selection based on how the grass looks in the field, and not on what it looks like on a pallet.
Thanks! Right now, Zorro Zoysia is the frontrunner. However, Geo, Zeon, Diamond, and Empire are contenders too. I'm also starting to think about Bermuda as an option. Does anyone have any thoughts on how Bermuda compares to Zoysia in terms of natural color? The darker, the better for me.

If Bermuda is typically darker than Zoysia, which Bermuda varieties should I look into?
 
#25 ·
Tide said:
If Bermuda is typically darker than Zoysia, which Bermuda varieties should I look into?
I have a friend three doors away who has Zorro and absolutely loves it. He switched from Bermuda but he had a very difficult shade problem. I'm not sure what it would look like if mowed with a reel. I think 1 inch is a minimum but I'm no Zorro expert. When my friend sodded his lawn, he had some pieces left over which I put on my side lawn that is hopelessly shaded. I think it gets about three hours of sun a day. It is doing remarkably well even though I rarely mow it (with a string trimmer!) because all my rotaries are currently waiting on repairs and my reels cut too low for the grass. I expect to have this solved soon! Prevention of erosion was my objrctive.

I would say TifGrand is the prettiest Bermuda, but all I've seen are the Tifton-ABAC-UGA varieties. It is definitely darker than TifTuf and is a "semi-dwarf. " Additionally it has that Bermuda feel on bare feet. But all of this is about as objective as selecting the most beautiful girl in a beauty pageant.

I've also read glowing reports on other Bermudas (example: Celebration) which I have not seen. The choices are out there.
 
#26 ·
You can get tifgrand and most Bermuda a tad darker imo, assuming it gets the right inputs. Not aware of a darker zoysia but it's hard to compare when not side by side, I've seen some dark empire (overfed imo).

Then there are summers ....the fist fight to not give it a scalp look (there is a thread all to itself - see hoc resets).