Neither glyphosate nor sulfentrazone cured my nutsedge problem. Puts a hurting on it but then it comes back. Certainty is working better for me.

 

Neither glyphosate nor sulfentrazone cured my nutsedge problem. Puts a hurting on it but then it comes back. Certainty is working better for me.

I have Certainty, but wasn't planning to use it on this area, since it could prevent the KBG seed from germinating if I'm not careful. I'll have to check the label again...but I think it said to wait 3 weeks before seeding. 3 weeks would put me later than I want for the renovation (and risk washouts if it rains a lot in late August).

The use rate for Sulfosulfuron ranges from 0.25-0.75 oz per acre on KBG. The good news is: I did 2 apps at 0.5oz per acre on the lawn adjacent to the Reno area, with the second app being 6 weeks ago. No Nutsedge there.

That said, I'm not even sure if these low rates are enough to kill existing Nutsedge...prevention or killing seedlings is one thing, but 6-inch plants are another matter.

Most people wouldn't even contemplate using Sulfosulfuron for cool season lawns. I'm an oddity it that regard...willing to take the risks. And I think the risk is worth it for Poa Triv killing/suppression. But not sure about in a Reno area, if that's a risk I can take.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

 

If you have yellow nutsedge, then I recommend sulfentrazone (Dismiss). I've never used glyphosate on nutsedge, but I too heard that it isn't effective. Don't pull nutsedge out by hand.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-19-w.pdf

 

If you have yellow nutsedge, then I recommend sulfentrazone (Dismiss). I've never used glyphosate on nutsedge, but I too heard that it isn't effective. Don't pull nutsedge out by hand.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-19-w.pdf

Yeah, I'm leaning this direction...

 

Looks like no advantage of adding Quinclorac to Sulfentrazone...?

I need to see what the reseed interval is for Sulfentrazone. Hopefully better than Certainty. I would just be spot spraying.

 

Sulfentrazone is the key here. There is a Purdue article off you Google it.

Plus this is on sale at Amazon today for $10
Deal of the day: Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns Ready-To-Spray, 32oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RH98PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_AQRGJC9Y0BXK0D1CV74W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Agree with sulfentrazone (Dismiss). I used SedgeHammer (halosulfuron) last season and it hardly touched what I had. I would just recommend waiting for a cool stretch of weather to apply it, as you will likely get some damage to desired turf if applying in hot weather.

 

Interesting.. I wonder if diquat in the gly solution was being used ?
Its a burn down that can kill the top growth before the nuts get fried.
After my reno, my sedge is back in the same spot but I used diquat on this area before learning its bad.

Its hard for me to believe the sedge escapes gly though.
I have provista and will be spraying it soon to see outcome

 

Sulfentrazone is the key here. There is a Purdue article off you Google it.

Plus this is on sale at Amazon today for $10
Deal of the day: Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns Ready-To-Spray, 32oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RH98PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_AQRGJC9Y0BXK0D1CV74W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That's the one I have. The rate to get it equivalent to Dismiss is 2.63 oz per thousand. No surfactant, because it makes Sulfentrazone too "hot". The bottle was a pain to open for tank dilution...had to use a utility knife.

Dismiss brand is only for certified applicators (pros) in my state...restricted use.

I used some of the Ortho on one of our family lawns today. First I sprayed the area with Quinclorac plus MSO, and after it dried, went back with Sulfentrazone, so we'll see what happens.

I think the Purdue article is the one that indicated that Quinclorac plus Sulfentrazone, or just Sulfentrazone alone, are both excellent at control. I didn't want to have to repeat, so I did both serially since I couldn't mix them (due to needing MSO for Crabgrass).

 

Interesting.. I wonder if diquat in the gly solution was being used ?
Its a burn down that can kill the top growth before the nuts get fried.
After my reno, my sedge is back in the same spot but I used diquat on this area before learning its bad.

Its hard for me to believe the sedge escapes gly though.
I have provista and will be spraying it soon to see outcome

Interesting question. I'm not about to experiment. I will be spot spraying with Sulfentrazone soon, unless the seeding interval is something ridiculous. No messing around.

 

If you have yellow nutsedge, then I recommend sulfentrazone (Dismiss). I've never used glyphosate on nutsedge, but I too heard that it isn't effective. Don't pull nutsedge out by hand.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-19-w.pdf

Hand-pulling a random single nutsedge plant with only 3 leaves is okay, yes? Theoretically in that situation tubers haven't formed?

 

Sulfentrazone

 

Lesco Momentum 4score knocks it out for me.

 

Interesting post from the warm season page by @Amoo316
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=30578

I've said this before and it wasn't exactly the best received. Sedges keep coming back because Halosulfuron (SedgeHammer) is nothing more than a knock down.

Matt from Grass factor has an entire video related to how to legit get rid of sedges for good. He lays out MULTIPLE varieties of programs which will eventually kill them off in your yard. Year after year dropping Halo on this is just a bandaid and doesn't address the actual problem.

Personally I'd go the
Sulfentrazone 4oz in March
Sulfentrazon 4oz in April
Sulfentrazone 4oz in May
Halo in june/July if needed.

Sulfentrazone has a pre-M effect on Sedges and has better residual when combined with Halo for more killing power as a late season "oh crap I didn't do anything now I have sedges".

Here's the video.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20GHnEa8L0Q[/media]

Also the main active in Blindside is Sulfentrazone (Dismiss) with a diff Sulf-Urea as opposed to something like Dismiss NXT

 

This is the only other post in that thread that I feel is relevant to the Nutsedge conversation in regards to why you can't just spot treat it and it's gone.

Sedge Ender is kind of one of those products that doesn't make much sense to me, maybe I'm missing something?

The Sulfentrazone in Sedge Ender is doing the work of killing the sedges. The added Prodiamine is great for any other weeds you may happen to kill off on the label, but the reason sedges come back is because the nutlets and tubers don't die off. Kind of the same reason we struggled to kill Bermuda effectively, can't kill the roots. Because the root is already there, and Prodiamine works in a way to prevent root development of new seeds, it's effect on sedges in a product labeled for sedges seems questionable at best?

*snip*

At the end of the day you have to kill the nutlets and tubers to kill the sedges. They're not like most weeds where we can spray them once a season and they're gone.

 

^ @Amoo316 :thumbup:

 

I have been hand pulling the nutsedge near the driveway edge. Need to do a spot spray on the front yard. Too risky to do a blanket treatment, did that last year in the back, had some damage to the grass, mainly the bermuda in my lawn. Oh well. Have to dilute the ortho sulfentrazone hose end product to a tank sprayer. It knocks it out for sure, after 3-4 weeks.