[Bombsquad85]

Drive will kill the clover and definitely all if not most of the weeds

Awesome thanks for that. I've been seeing a lot about tenacity across YouTube but not much of Drive (at least by brand name) but that was one of the first (if not the first) recommendations for me. Maybe I'll go with Drive and maybe use Tenacity as a Pre E?

Tenacity at seed down is a good idea if you want to do it I personally never used tenacity . I personally never used drive but I'm guessing it's a faster kill of crabgrass and weeds then tenacity. As far as using tenacity as a weed and crabgrass killer it's a bad decision there's much better and faster products.

I've noticed that. I searched tenacity here and saw some conflicting info to what I've sen on YouTube. And according to the Herbicide thread here looks like drive XLR8 and a pre e would be best suited for me. I'm going to try the stonewall stuff in the spring.

Basically looks my plan of action consist of spraying drive, waiting a couple weeks, dethatch, and over seed. Then in the early spring put down the stonewall and then some fertilizer (which I will need to research for the spring time).

I really hope its a mild winter as far as snow is cconcerned .

 

[M32075]

Awesome thanks for that. I've been seeing a lot about tenacity across YouTube but not much of Drive (at least by brand name) but that was one of the first (if not the first) recommendations for me. Maybe I'll go with Drive and maybe use Tenacity as a Pre E?

Tenacity at seed down is a good idea if you want to do it I personally never used tenacity . I personally never used drive but I'm guessing it's a faster kill of crabgrass and weeds then tenacity. As far as using tenacity as a weed and crabgrass killer it's a bad decision there's much better and faster products.

I've noticed that. I searched tenacity here and saw some conflicting info to what I've sen on YouTube. And according to the Herbicide thread here looks like drive XLR8 and a pre e would be best suited for me. I'm going to try the stonewall stuff in the spring.

Basically looks my plan of action consist of spraying drive, waiting a couple weeks, dethatch, and over seed. Then in the early spring put down the stonewall and then some fertilizer (which I will need to research for the spring time).

I really hope its a mild winter as far as snow is cconcerned .

It's a good basic doable plan and you should like the results. After two weeks check your weed and crabgrass situation if you still have some spray again for the complete kill. I'm not sure if you have a irrigation system if not your going to have to figure something out your going to need to keep that seed moist for about two weeks. Also I highly recommend starting a journal guys here in this forum will help you out with any hiccups that hit. Start it soon put in your pictures and game plan for feedback before you pull the trigger

 

[Bombsquad85]

Ok and another question... is there any reason I would go with this over say.... food coloring haha

Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue Concentrated Spray Pattern Indicator 8 Ounces Perfect Weed Spray Dye, Herbicide Dye, Fertilizer Marking Dye, Turf Mark and Blue Herbicide Marker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7M309M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_K18K8NR372TX9838DETB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I would like to see what I spray so I don't double up on it

 

[Bombsquad85]

Tenacity at seed down is a good idea if you want to do it I personally never used tenacity . I personally never used drive but I'm guessing it's a faster kill of crabgrass and weeds then tenacity. As far as using tenacity as a weed and crabgrass killer it's a bad decision there's much better and faster products.

I've noticed that. I searched tenacity here and saw some conflicting info to what I've sen on YouTube. And according to the Herbicide thread here looks like drive XLR8 and a pre e would be best suited for me. I'm going to try the stonewall stuff in the spring.

Basically looks my plan of action consist of spraying drive, waiting a couple weeks, dethatch, and over seed. Then in the early spring put down the stonewall and then some fertilizer (which I will need to research for the spring time).

I really hope its a mild winter as far as snow is cconcerned .

It's a good basic doable plan and you should like the results. After two weeks check your weed and crabgrass situation if you still have some spray again for the complete kill. I'm not sure if you have a irrigation system if not your going to have to figure something out your going to need to keep that seed moist for about two weeks. Also I highly recommend starting a journal guys here in this forum will help you out with any hiccups that hit. Start it soon put in your pictures and game plan for feedback before you pull the trigger

Thank you!

I will keep the pictures going.

I dont have an irrigation system, my town actually just passed a ruling that you need to have a well dug for future irrigation systems... but I have sprinklers and I'm actually planning on a DIY irrigation system

How long is it typically normal to wait to seed after Drive?

 

[M32075]

As per product label 7 days prior to seeding or 28 day's post seeding. The sooner the better but it also has a heat warning to use below 80 degrees or could harm good grass you want to keep. I think it's no big deal you're over seeding anyway

 

[Bombsquad85]

As per product label 7 days prior to seeding or 28 day's post seeding. The sooner the better but it also has a heat warning to use below 80 degrees or could harm good grass you want to keep. I think it's no big deal you're over seeding anyway

Good to know. Thanks. I haven't looked at the label yet. I'm gonna try to order it this weekend.

Do you have any opinion of the dye?

There's. High probability that I will get pulled away from spraying to deal with my 4 month old or 5 year old so I'd like to keep a tab on where I left off. I just don't know if it's necessary to buy the laser Dye or if simple food coloring would suffice

 

[M32075]

As per product label 7 days prior to seeding or 28 day's post seeding. The sooner the better but it also has a heat warning to use below 80 degrees or could harm good grass you want to keep. I think it's no big deal you're over seeding anyway

Good to know. Thanks. I haven't looked at the label yet. I'm gonna try to order it this weekend.

Do you have any opinion of the dye?

There's. High probability that I will get pulled away from spraying to deal with my 4 month old or 5 year old so I'd like to keep a tab on where I left off. I just don't know if it's necessary to buy the laser Dye or if simple food coloring would suffice

That I have no clue. I would go check a website called Do my own.com they carry Drive xlr8 and loaded with good information on it and how to apply and other products you might need with it.

 

[Overtaxed]

I use something called Dynamark. Get it at Tractor Supply, it's blue. It's still kind of hard to see. The good news, at least from my experience, Drive isn't terrible toxic to good grass. If you overlap a bit, it's not the end of the world.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dynamark-blue-spray-indicator-1-qt

As others have said, no PreM this year. Drive (maybe twice to get it all) with some Trimec will smoke any non-grass weed. Then hit it with your seed, then, around Feb, drop your first dose of PreM. That'll keep the poa from germinating in the spring and all your grass will be up by then, so you won't hurt germination.

While Drive will kill most stuff, I'd honestly hit it with both Trimec and Drive. You'll need Trimec anyway next year to kill any broadleafs that come up. Honestly, Drive is so special purpose, that's the one that I'd try not to buy, but, in your case, you need it because of all the crabgrass. I use Drive rarely now, but I use Trimec all the time to clear out any garbage that gets in the yard. Probably 1-2X a month, I'll do some spot spraying, and it's almost always Trimec, occasionally with some Drive in there if I'm seeing any crabgrass. Believe it or not, crabgrass is really easy to control, preM will stop almost all of it from coming up, and Drive will smoke any that makes it through. The nasty stuff is the grassy weeds, those are much harder to get rid of. Clover and crabgrass, the 2 most common problems in many lawns are also the easiest to fix.

I'd skip Tenacity for now. That's a bit of a special product, it's not really a general purpose thing. People use it for a lot of stuff, but there are better chemicals for most problems. I have bottle upon bottle of chemicals for my lawn, garden and farm. I have no Tenacity, I've never needed it. Trimec to blast broadleaf, Drive for crabgrass, Sulfentrazone for nut grasses, more fungicides than I care to mention. Tenacity is nice because it hits a lot of stuff, but it's really not necessary for what you're trying to do.

Shopping list:

Drive XLR8
https://www.domyown.com/drive-xlr8-herbicide-crabgrass-killer-p-1520.html

Trimec:
https://www.domyown.com/gordons-trimec-classic-broadleaf-herbicide-p-10321.html

MSO (mix it in with the Drive):
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-duo-stick-p-12239.html

-or-

Trimec with Drive already mixed in:
https://www.domyown.com/trimec-crabgrass-concentrate-p-21919.html
(this is more expensive per sq/ft, but if your lawn isn't that big, it might be a good option)

<drop seed>

And then in the late winter, drop this:
https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

That'll keep the crabgrass from coming back next year. You'll probably want to do Prodiamine in the late winter and then again in the early summer to get good control of the annual weeds.

Wait till you get into fungicides, that's when these lists get crazy.

 

[jingobah]

Skip the Tenacity, it's painfully slow to kill anything. Just kill the crabgrass now, use what has been recommended above, you have time even if it takes a couple applications, no need to use round up at all. There may be some grass beneath those weeds or not. Overseed in the fall, feed it, any crabgrass that pops back up will die in the winter, !!!apply a pre-m in the spring!!!… feed it, BOOM….

 

[Bombsquad85]

I use something called Dynamark. Get it at Tractor Supply, it's blue. It's still kind of hard to see. The good news, at least from my experience, Drive isn't terrible toxic to good grass. If you overlap a bit, it's not the end of the world.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dynamark-blue-spray-indicator-1-qt

As others have said, no PreM this year. Drive (maybe twice to get it all) with some Trimec will smoke any non-grass weed. Then hit it with your seed, then, around Feb, drop your first dose of PreM. That'll keep the poa from germinating in the spring and all your grass will be up by then, so you won't hurt germination.

While Drive will kill most stuff, I'd honestly hit it with both Trimec and Drive. You'll need Trimec anyway next year to kill any broadleafs that come up. Honestly, Drive is so special purpose, that's the one that I'd try not to buy, but, in your case, you need it because of all the crabgrass. I use Drive rarely now, but I use Trimec all the time to clear out any garbage that gets in the yard. Probably 1-2X a month, I'll do some spot spraying, and it's almost always Trimec, occasionally with some Drive in there if I'm seeing any crabgrass. Believe it or not, crabgrass is really easy to control, preM will stop almost all of it from coming up, and Drive will smoke any that makes it through. The nasty stuff is the grassy weeds, those are much harder to get rid of. Clover and crabgrass, the 2 most common problems in many lawns are also the easiest to fix.

I'd skip Tenacity for now. That's a bit of a special product, it's not really a general purpose thing. People use it for a lot of stuff, but there are better chemicals for most problems. I have bottle upon bottle of chemicals for my lawn, garden and farm. I have no Tenacity, I've never needed it. Trimec to blast broadleaf, Drive for crabgrass, Sulfentrazone for nut grasses, more fungicides than I care to mention. Tenacity is nice because it hits a lot of stuff, but it's really not necessary for what you're trying to do.

Shopping list:

Drive XLR8
https://www.domyown.com/drive-xlr8-herbicide-crabgrass-killer-p-1520.html

Trimec:
https://www.domyown.com/gordons-trimec-classic-broadleaf-herbicide-p-10321.html

MSO (mix it in with the Drive):
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-duo-stick-p-12239.html

-or-

Trimec with Drive already mixed in:
https://www.domyown.com/trimec-crabgrass-concentrate-p-21919.html
(this is more expensive per sq/ft, but if your lawn isn't that big, it might be a good option)

<drop seed>

And then in the late winter, drop this:
https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

That'll keep the crabgrass from coming back next year. You'll probably want to do Prodiamine in the late winter and then again in the early summer to get good control of the annual weeds.

Wait till you get into fungicides, that's when these lists get crazy.

Thank you all. So much great info!

 

[M1SF1T]

I'd definitely apply a full spray of a 3 way herbicide plus quinclorac.

Q4 is a 3 way with quinclorac if you want an all in one product, but you can tank mix a 3 way with quinclorac too if you want the option to spray them separately.

Get a surfactant too.