A spritz of 2,4-D, or metsulfuron would likely put the hurt on them if you're being selective. If it's just a few weeds, a weed burning torch may turn them to ash for immediate results. Glyphosate if everything is still dormant around them is a good solution also.

 

Hi,
thank you for your response. Do you have a link to the 2,4-D? We are open to suggestions. His lawn has some big patches of these weeds and the HOA will not let us burn our yards( I asked/ easy reset first of year).

 

Your neighbor wants a magical fairy dust laced with unicorn sprinkles. The last time I checked, that was not labeled for residential lawns. Go to a big box store and get whatever has 2-4-D or MCPA labeled for the grass type, and spray it.
Most of those weeds look like common winter weeds that a common herbicide will control.

 

Your neighbor wants a magical fairy dust laced with unicorn sprinkles. The last time I checked, that was not labeled for residential lawns. Go to a big box store and get whatever has 2-4-D or MCPA labeled for the grass type, and spray it.
Most of those weeds look like common winter weeds that a common herbicide will control.

Hey please keep out with the millennial minded simpleton comments.

We are all adults here, so let's act like it.

With that I've been down the big box store list. It's a waist $$$, which is the reason why I am asking here.

 

Hand pull what you can. That won’t work for the chickweed, but this time of year 2,4-D with a surfactant is effective and the cheapest remedy. Like mentioned above, you can get that at your local big box or feed store. Once it warms up you will need to switch to Celsius or Certainty. The best products take time to work especially in cooler temperatures. There really is no such thing as something that will turn weeds to dust quickly without also harming the desirable turf.

 

Rock on man! Thanks for this really helpful info.

 

FYI the weeds sprayed with 2,4-D are probably going to look ugly for a solid month. You might get a slightly faster response from an ester formulation like Speedzone. Careful with the temperature though.

 

Ok good deal. Thanks for the heads up. I'm sure he will mow low or something of the sorts to either knock them down.
Speedzone is one I have yet to try.

With temps in the 40s-60s I hope it will all turn out OK. I will spot treat as my Bermuda is really waking up to green. It's always the first to green on the block.

His is dormant so he will likely need to spray the yard.

 

Excellent point, @ionicatoms! I didn’t even think to go over ester vs. amine formulas.

 

Mix your herbicide of choice with Quicksilver. In 24 hours or less the target weeds will be wilted. Complete desiccation and death occurs within 7 to 14 days of application.

 

Rock on thanks!

 

@GreenLand - just wanting to clarify that big-box herbicides aren't necessarily crap - they generally use the same chemistries but in much smaller concentrations compared to the professional products. And while you may buy a BioAdvanced 2,4d/dicamba/MCPP concentrate for $20 (vs spending $50+ on a pro product) it doesn't take you as far long term. Not a proponent of big-box, watered down products by any means but just know that it's the same stuff and will do the same thing at the same speed as a pro product will (for the most part). Now if you want to spend $150-200 on a specialty product (like the quicksilver mentioned above) then it's a whole different ballgame.

I hope i'm helping so you don't have outsized expectations of any product suggested here.

 

@GreenLand
I hope i'm helping so you don't have outsized expectations of any product suggested here.

Outsized expectations seem to be the biggest cause of herbicide “failure.” The reviews on Home Depot are brutal.

 

Spectracide Weed Stop works great for spot spraying or broader spraying on broadleaf and grassy weeds. It won't get a few pesky ones like dallis grass or poa, but works very inexpensively on 95% of weeds.

 

Well that's one that I have tried. Twice. Hose and pump spray. Like you say there's a few it won't get. Maybe I should of thought about mixing it with another herbicide. Idk

 

have you tried searching university extension services? For example in SC it's Clemson Extension Service. In NC it's NCState. U of GA has a good one. Most states have an extension service. Many have local county offices. I believe others have said this, but post emergent chemicals, like WeedBgon, various Image products, etc, even Roundup do not instantly kill...it takes 7-21 days depending upon the weather mostly. Also, pre-emergent products are not 100 % effective. More like 95-98% and you have to put it down at the right time in the right amount. When I started down my 'kill the weeds' road several years ago, I was amazed how much good information is available on the internet...not just this site...again, google your local extension service.

 

I agree.

The past few years I have been throwing down 4-6 times a year. Idk maybe it's me sometimes stuff works better then others. Like you say it's all in the timing. Work keeps me busy, so timing is not consistent.

 

Preemergent in fall and late winter will prevent most of your weed problems (timing is key) Use the remaining budget for fertilizer feedings for grass to fill in and also prevents weeds will get you 95% weed free. The rest can be hand pulled or proper herbicide will take care of it.

 

Hey thanks for your reply. I am fine with $150 for the herbicide(s). What is a good herbicide that would fit that budget? I'm thinking enough for a year.

Fert is another story as that would be organic. I'll figure that out after getting the soil tested.

Thank you for your time.

 

Speedzone Southern EW or Avenue South, the latter being the same formulation as Roundup Southern, just at a higher concentrate. Read the labels and consult AG Extension literature to see which one is best for your lawn. Both will last for tens of applications at 5,000 Sq ft. Celsius may or may not be better, but doesn't take care of sedges. Celsius XTRA is formulated to target Sedges and be a one solution product, but it hasn't been out very long so I don't know how well it works compared to the original formula.

You're going to want a good pump or backpack sprayer, and then you're going to want some good TeeJet Nozzles, and then...have you ever read "If you Give a Mouse a Cookie"?

 

Thanks for the advise on those products. I have not heard of them.they sound like what we could split and be set for some time.

I have been thinking of setting up a cart and tank so I can pull the spray behind so I get better coverage and no chemicals on me.

 

When you read the Bermuda Bible one thing will come up over and over. You need to put down pre emergent. Trying to play whack a mole with weeds all year round without pre emergent is a losing proposition. If I had to start over I would just go with a split of Specticle.

 

I'll post last year's pre emergent tomorrow. It's one that I will not use again. I still hand picked though the year. I have been trying to go the granular or hose end sprayer route. Guess I'll need to fab a sprayer. For now I'll stick with my pump sprayer.

Seems like specticle is a contender.

 

Regarding chemicals, a very good product for your yard would be "fahrenheit". You can get it at domyown.com for around $35. It's MSM and Dicamba. Your application rate is about 3oz per acre to 6oz per acre. Depending on your yard size, that might mean getting a diet scale to weigh it up. It's granular, but you'll want to dissolve it. It's root uptake, so you don't have to worry about dilution rate. If you use "too much water", it's still fine. The MSM has some pre-emergent properties, which helps you stay ahead. Only thing to worry about is it will kill bushes and trees if you hit them too hard, so don't be a moron about it. But if you treat the whole yard at the low rate, you should have no issues.

You definitely will need to get a hold of specticle FLO. For now, you could use prodiamine, which is pretty cheap and will do a decent job preventing a large portion of seeds already present from germinating.

My herbicide regimen is as follows:

Fall pre-emergent - Specticle FLO (expensive but worth it)
Spring pre-emergent - prodiamine
Spring greenup weed control - Fahrenheit (don't use once soil temps exceed 85 degrees). If I have a lot of grassy weeds, I'll use Blindside instead of Fahrenheit. It's about 4x the price, but it kill stubborn stuff.
Summer weed control - Celcius (safe for warmer soil temps - expensive but worth it)
Sedge control - Certainty mixed in with whatever I'm spraying for other weeds. Also file under Expensive but worth it.

I won't say I never have weeds, but I will say that when we walk the yard and occasionally see one, it's more like "huh! a weed."

 

Regarding chemicals, a very good product for your yard would be "fahrenheit". You can get it at domyown.com for around $35. It's MSM and Dicamba. Your application rate is about 3oz per acre to 6oz per acre. Depending on your yard size, that might mean getting a diet scale to weigh it up. It's granular, but you'll want to dissolve it. It's root uptake, so you don't have to worry about dilution rate. If you use "too much water", it's still fine. The MSM has some pre-emergent properties, which helps you stay ahead. Only thing to worry about is it will kill bushes and trees if you hit them too hard, so don't be a moron about it. But if you treat the whole yard at the low rate, you should have no issues.

You definitely will need to get a hold of specticle FLO. For now, you could use prodiamine, which is pretty cheap and will do a decent job preventing a large portion of seeds already present from germinating.

My herbicide regimen is as follows:

Fall pre-emergent - Specticle FLO (expensive but worth it)
Spring pre-emergent - prodiamine
Spring greenup weed control - Fahrenheit (don't use once soil temps exceed 85 degrees). If I have a lot of grassy weeds, I'll use Blindside instead of Fahrenheit. It's about 4x the price, but it kill stubborn stuff.
Summer weed control - Celcius (safe for warmer soil temps - expensive but worth it)
Sedge control - Certainty mixed in with whatever I'm spraying for other weeds. Also file under Expensive but worth it.

I won't say I never have weeds, but I will say that when we walk the yard and occasionally see one, it's more like "huh! a weed."

Thank you for taking your time to share your experience and advise. I am looking into this one.

 

Last year's pre emergent

 

without being able to see the actual ingredients, I'm guessing it's a mild dose of prodiamine and sulfentrazone. It probably did some good, but not great is my guess.

 

https://files.plytix.com/api/v1.1/file/public_files/pim/private/assets/43/37/8d/5e/5e8d3743202d9eba64d3af60/texts/c3/9f/42/60/60429fc3755e36683129b45d/l60476.pdf

 

Better options:

Prodiamine: Prodiamine 65 WDG (Generic Barricade) - mix at 1-lb per acre, or about 0.4 oz per 1000-sf. Don't worry about dilution rate, just evenly spray.

Sulfentrazone: Blindside Herbicide WDG - mix at 7 oz per acre, or about 0.2 oz per 1000-sf. Again, don't worry about dilution rate, just spray it evenly. I recommend treating the whole yard and not just spot spraying this stuff. I never seem to get great results with spot spraying.

I know it's more expensive than the stuff you used, but ask yourself if you'd rather spend more and have the treatment be effective or spend less and the treatment be ineffective.

Edit -- often i'll just mix these two and spray in one application

 

Rock on! I really do not mind spending more upfront for better products. Ones that are concentrated products that last for years are on the checklist.

With that said. How long would I need to wait before the chemicals are depleted and it is safe to let the pups out and walk bare foot? I know it is a loaded question, but figured I would ask.

Thank you all who have posted your advise and experiences.

 

I've never had a toxicity issue with pets as long as I stick to the label rates. I do prefer to let the grass dry, but that has more to do with tracking stuff into the house like mud and grass clippings.

 

Good deal. Thanks!

 

Speedzone.

 

Hey guys is there any harm in spraying another round of blindside after a week or so? If so how long should I wait? When I originally sprayed I had not cut in a couple weeks. Now I am @.75" and would like to get the spray closer to the ground.

Also do I need to run the sprinklers to help water it all down to the soil?

stuff works awesome! Even knocked out poa and the white invasive flower seeds(ones from the flowers next to the barrels)

Thank you for your time.

 

I would wait at least two or three weeks before another application. Depending on your temps it is not finished killing everything. You might just want to consider spot spraying whatever is left than another blanket application.

Also it works by being absorbed into the leaf material of the weeds, so do not water it in. In fact if you can go a couple of days before the lawn gets wet that is best.

 

Rock on. Thanks for the heads up.

I would wait at least two or three weeks before another application. Depending on your temps it is not finished killing everything. You might just want to consider spot spraying whatever is left than another blanket application.

Also it works by being absorbed into the leaf material of the weeds, so do not water it in. In fact if you can go a couple of days before the lawn gets wet that is best.