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Weed killer and New Bermuda Sod

3.4K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  girevik  
#1 ·
New Bermuda sod installation in NC, did not go well as sod farm delivered very dry sod. Despite heavy watering, we got 1" shrinkage between all pieces.

Now 4 weeks in and 2 mowings, it's well rooted, but a weed magnet. Not sure a post emergent will work, as we're in a windy area and lots of weeds arrive daily, mostly in the gaps.

We've seem plenty of warnings against pre emergents, although Ronstar seems a viable possibility.

Is Ronstar a good choice or are there better choices to prevent root damage on new bermuda sod?
 
#2 ·
It's July… and your in NC… if it were me I would wait, but that's probably the safe play.

I would stick with the post emergent at this point, and use the Ronstar or Specticle this fall if you want some good coverage and safe for the new sod. You won't have much longer.

You do have time to apply sand and top dressing to cover the gaps some now.

That said - label wise it's said to be safe with even sprigging, so I'd imagine you are fine if you break down the applications enough to stop the germination, and can still apply this fall/winter.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Fatcity for the advice.

I get it that waiting a few months is safer on the new sod roots. Ronstar says it goes after shoots, not roots. Is Speticle similar acting and same chemical ?

On the gaps, many seem to be filling in with lateral growth, so Fatcity, I guess you are suggesting sand to fill the worst that haven't filled in. What top dressing are you suggesting, as we're doing well with sod directly on sand, with lots of water.

Fatcity said, "you are fine if you break down the applications enough to stop the germination, and can still apply this fall/winter." on that, are you referring to the pre or post emergent? So by breaking down the applications, are you suggesting something like half the label rates?

Thanks from NC.

Ps. If my weed pic showed up, I'm guessing that's crabgrass, however the lawn had a lot of it before treating, and tilling, though it didn't go brown in winter. Over the septic field the roots were the size of your little finger! Industrial strength.

 
#6 ·
If it's goose you need to pull them before the roots really get established. It's not all that easy to kill, at least in my experience. It's ugly tough stuff.

Neighbors on both sides are infested with it. I've sprayed their yard twice with Image All in One and I think it's finally beating it down a little. I use the cheap stuff on their yards. Better than what they use which is nothing at all.
 
#7 ·
I seeded Arden 15 this year. I pull goosegrass every day. It's become a nice, mindless task for me.

It's easiest the morning after a rain. Be sure to grab each of the stems (?) of the plant and it'll pull right out with a little back-and-forth action. I've probably pulled between 4 and 6 wheelbarrow loads of goosegrass over the past couple of weeks, and there's plenty more waiting for me tomorrow.

Thankfully, celsius has taken care of everything else that I had.
 
#8 ·
girevik said:
If it's goose you need to pull them before the roots really get established. I've sprayed their yard twice with Image All in One and I think it's finally beating it down a little.
I've tried to read online the Inage AllInOne Label. I'm not seeing goose grass listed. Any chance someone could double check this.

I saw a 12 min YouTube video from an unusual guy in TX. He says Image works on goosegrass, but from his video it looked like it half worked!
 
#9 ·
It's on the label but states it requires multiple applications. What I applied on the neighbors send to have stunted the growth pretty substantially. That's combining it with 90+ degree heat and MSO Will surely require what I have left in the bottle before it dies...... hopefully that is.

Goose is tough stuff. I used glyphisate last summer on individual plants until it knocked them out. In fall and spring I used Prodiamine and haven't seen a single plant this year.

Pull what you can and maybe prepare a spray bottle for spot treatment.