Head scratching here too MQ. I buy chain at TSC and never had any issues.

 

Thanks for the insight. Not sure what's going on either. The chain is a heavy duty 40 chain. The mower shop got me one last year and the new one I got from Dolphin Outdoor Power equipment looks the same. Here's a picture of the old one along some pictures of the sprocket and clutch.

 

I'm wondering if there is enough deflection that the chain is striking something while at speed.

I was thinking this too!

Head scratching here too MQ. I buy chain at TSC and never had any issues.

That's where I use to get mine too :thumbup:

Have you ever compared the new chain to an old chain? You can see how much it has stretched over time as long as the link count is the same. Does the chain break at the connecting link or somewhere else on the chain?

 

I will have to count the links later but it breaks at the connecting link each time

 

A chain should have no more than 1/2" deflection at any point, and I prefer much less than that. I did have to use a half link on my TC to get the proper deflection. The half links can be bought at TSC as well.

 

It doesn't hit anything and least I don't hear it doing so. It starts when the chai starts to have slack in it and when you make a turn with the mower it jumps off the front sprocket. I put it back on and it will work for a couple more mowings when it occasionally jumps off. Then eventually it comes apart at the connection. Then if you replace the connection and it last a few mores of cutting and breaks again.

 

I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.

 

I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.

I just counted the links on my P-20 and it has 24. Did they sell you the correct # of links for the engine you have. The P-20 could have either the Honda or Briggs. Not sure if there would be a difference there.

I actually have a P-20 that you could check out if it would be helpful. I actually have 2 of them. Haha. I'd sell you the one that's not working for parts and it would be cheaper than that clutch from Dolphin. It needs a new reel and drive sprocket but the clutches seem to be in good shape.

Let me know if there are any specific pics I could take that may be helpful in figure out what is going on with yours.

 

I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.

I just counted the links on my P-20 and it has 24. Did they sell you the correct # of links for the engine you have. The P-20 could have either the Honda or Briggs. Not sure if there would be a difference there.

I actually have a P-20 that you could check out if it would be helpful. I actually have 2 of them. Haha. I'd sell you the one that's not working for parts and it would be cheaper than that clutch from Dolphin. It needs a new reel and drive sprocket but the clutches seem to be in good shape.

Let me know if there are any specific pics I could take that may be helpful in figure out what is going on with yours.

Thanks for the offerson the old mower for parts and for taking pictures. The clutch should arrive tomorrow and I will work on installing it over the weekend. As for the chain I have the old ones so I might take a link from it or get one at tractor supply. If i find I need a picture or two I'll let you know. Thanks again

 

No problem. Like I said before, if you have the extra time to take pics and post how your installation goes I think It would be very helpful!!! And not just to me I have never been able to find a good walk through of that process. The best one is a recent post on the "other site" and it wasn't too thorough, just a bunch of random pics.

 

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and replies. Replacing the whole clutch is the way to go. Very easy to do. Here's how I did it.
1. Removed the covers which cover the chains.
2. Removed all three chains
3. Removed the two thumb controls where they connect to the clutch assembly
4. Removed the 4 bolts which attach the clutch to the frame of the mower.
5. Removed the old clutch assembly
6. Set the new clutch assembly in place and reinstalled the bolts
7. Reattached the thumb control to the clutch assembly
8 reinstalled the chains and cover plates
9. Start mower and your good to go

A couple of things I immediately noticed with the new clutch. In the past if I let the grass get high due to rain or just not being able to cut it, when I eventually did cut the grass the reel would clog up and stop turning. With the new clutch I don't have this problem. It plowed right through it
Also when I engage the clutch to make the back wheels turn I don't have to push the thumb control in as far. I barely push it in and it goes.
Also the main chain runs much smoother and quieter.
Hope this helps you all.

 

That's great, I'm glad it all went well.

Unfortunately, I think I may be doing the same thing shortly. I believe my my drive side clutch plate seized to the shaft, right where the chain goes over the sprocket on the drive clutch. The drive side locked in today while I was mowing and started smoking. Whomp whomp. I thought that it was the cup seizing to the drive sprocket but I am able to get a putty knife in between. Even with the drive side thumb disengaged the wheels won't turn freely.



Any other ideas are welcome. I think I will have to decide between placing the cup and drive sprocket or replacing the whole assembly like luthersrose. About 150 bucks vs 340. I'm sure some of this bearings could be replaced too so it may just be best to do the whole thing.

 

Luthersrose, do you have any pics of the new clutch? Either on or off the reel?

 

Luthersrose, do you have any pics of the new clutch? Either on or off the reel?

Unfortunately I put all the covers back on. So I would have to take them off. I have a friend coming over some night this week to check and see if I have enough tension and length in the motor chain. So when he comes and I take off the covers I'll snap a few pictures. Thanks.

 

Does anyone know if the zerk on the reel clutch end is removable? I can't get this pill block bearing by it.

 

All zerks should be removable. Is the bottom hex shaped? It looks like it is but it may just be from the light.

 

All zerks should be removable. Is the bottom hex shaped? It looks like it is but it may just be from the light.

+1 I would say 99% of most zerk fittings should be replaceable.

 

Thank you both. I ended up getting it off. It was just hard to stabilize because the whole thing wasn't attached to the frame anymore. Hopefully I'll have a few more minutes tonight to check everything out and see what actually went wrong. And see what the $$$ damage is.

 

Ok, as expected I think the drive side clutch plate seized to the shaft. I did grease the zerks since I bought it used so I'm not quite sure why the grease was not getting far enough to grease that area. You can see the golden ring between the cup and the shaft.



The bearing closest to that clutch plate is also not smooth when turning it. The grease must not have been making it that far I guess. Now that I already this deep into it I figure I should just replace all the bearings along with the parts that are needed. Those individual parts get me close to the cost of replacing the whole shaft parts and all, already put together so I guess that's the way I'm leaning.

I knew that a shop told the previous owner that the clutch most likely needed replacing soon so I knew I might have that cost in the future. Guess it's just a little sooner than later. Here is a pic of the reel clutch plate and the pad on the main sprocket. It looks pretty work to me, but I don't really know how to guage that.





I have a lot of pictures taking apart everything. Maybe I'll put them together so that someone replacing a single part could reference in the future.

 

I have a tru cut 27" mower. I am having issues with the drive lever and reel lever sticking in engage mode. If I actually pull them all the way back it stops. This just started after I pressure washer it. Any suggestions?

 

I have a tru cut 27" mower. I am having issues with the drive lever and reel lever sticking in engage mode. If I actually pull them all the way back it stops. This just started after I pressure washer it. Any suggestions?

I think that's normal. Or do you mean "sticking" like difficult to disengage?

 

It never stuck until I washed the unit.

 

They are suppose to stick forward that way you don't have to hold them down all the time while mowing. After power washing you probably knocked some crude off that wasn't letting it fully engage.

 

It sounds like to me that even when both sides are not fully locked in they are still engaged some, right?

I would guess that you knocked off some of the grease when you were power washing. Have you re-greased after the cleaning? Also there are small springs on the bottom of the control rods, where they attach to the clutch. Are those there? Its possible they were knocked loose.



Have you checked the clearance of both of you clutch pads? MQ talks about the appropriate spacing here.

 

I fixed it, spring was on wrong