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Has anyone ever replaced their Kawasaki FE120 engine on a Toro Flex21 with a Predator engine or similar? Asking for a friend... :roll:

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12125676689&campaignid=12125676689&utm_content=119781803234&adsetid=119781803234&product=69730&store=566&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W7J9OGUSLxnqIyFB0pAf57-aOvs8J23jN-_lA2u6bj_uc5YYqp-0OxoCMnQQAvD_BwE
 
Redtwin said:
Has anyone ever replaced their Kawasaki FE120 engine on a Toro Flex21 with a Predator engine or similar? Asking for a friend... :roll:

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12125676689&campaignid=12125676689&utm_content=119781803234&adsetid=119781803234&product=69730&store=566&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W7J9OGUSLxnqIyFB0pAf57-aOvs8J23jN-_lA2u6bj_uc5YYqp-0OxoCMnQQAvD_BwE
Please start a thread so I can subscribe :D
 
I recently sold my 2008 GM 1000 but before doing so i did a full tune up to make sure it was running top-notch. Ultimately the slope on my front yard was too much for the GM 1000, so even with the machine running perfectly i decided to sell it.

The majority of the performance problems i had with the machine when i had it were caused by trash (rust, etc) in the gas tank and clogging up the carb causing surging.

I sealed the gas tank using an epoxy tank sealer which was super easy and future proofed the tank from rust - i would recommend!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DLCC6R8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, i know a lot of folks here havent had luck with aftermarket carbs, but i bought a replacement carb off amazong for $30 and it was fantastic... worked well for me at least.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JYL5CTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Food for thought. Best of luck to you all
 
Hey guys,

I took a leap of faith reading multiple posts on TLF and put in an offer to buy a Toro greens master 1000. Just a little bit about me I have never used reel mower and from the multiple discussions points I have learnt that people eventually move from rotary to residential reel mowers (McLane, Cal trimmer etc) and then finally to greens mower. I am trying to skip moving to reel mowers and jumping from my rotary to greens mower. Pasting the pictures of the Toro greenmaster 1000 that I put an offer on here. Will appreciate it if you can provide suggestions on whether this is a good buy or not. The agreed price is $700. Per the owner The manufacture date on this goes back to 1999. He also claims that the mower went through tune up last week. Plz let me know if this is a good deal.












 
@Bermuda_Rookie If everything moves and runs as it should I think it is a decent purchase considering it also has the groomer. It's obviously one of the older models but these machines are tanks and will run for a very long time. There still seems to be some decent meat left on the reel and bedknife.

I saw your last post about transitioning from rotary. I also jumped right into a GM1000 from rotary. There will be a bit of learning and popping wheelies at first but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.
 
Hi,
I have a Greensmaster 1000 04050 model approx 1995.
I cut the lawns a few days ago and was working perfectly. However today the engine starts but cannot the drive to the rear rollers.
Took off all the belt covers and they all appear to be fine and am able to freely rotate them.

The problem appears to be the V belts 2 no on the clutch control. On engaging the drive the belts they are not driving the pulley? Is this an easy fix?







 
Redtwin said:
@Bermuda_Rookie If everything moves and runs as it should I think it is a decent purchase considering it also has the groomer. It's obviously one of the older models but these machines are tanks and will run for a very long time. There still seems to be some decent meat left on the reel and bedknife.

I saw your last post about transitioning from rotary. I also jumped right into a GM1000 from rotary. There will be a bit of learning and popping wheelies at first but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.
Thanks @Redtwin - when you switched to GM1000 from rotary how leveled was your lawn? My lawn has a lot of bumps and I am a bit nervous with GM1000 since the highest HOC on this one is .5". With my rotary the lowest HOC was 1.39" and it was scalping at some spots. Reducing the HOC to .5" I may end up damaging the lawn at lot is spots. I want to level the lawn for sure but waiting until May end /June period.
 
uts said:
@Bermuda_Rob I don't know about prices in your area but in the NE area greensmower are harder to get and more expensive. That considered a Toro dealer has these on sale for 350 I think. That price includes the fact that the equipment is running. Would probably need a service and sharpening.
Thanks for letting me know. Can you share details of the dealer with me plz? Or is there an online posting that I can look at?
 
Bermuda_Rookie said:
Thanks @Redtwin - when you switched to GM1000 from rotary how leveled was your lawn? My lawn has a lot of bumps and I am a bit nervous with GM1000 since the highest HOC on this one is .5". With my rotary the lowest HOC was 1.39" and it was scalping at some spots. Reducing the HOC to .5" I may end up damaging the lawn at lot is spots. I want to level the lawn for sure but waiting until May end /June period.
It was still pretty bumpy and took several leveling session before I could get it down to under .5". My GM1000 has the ability to mow almost all the way to an inch so I had some flexibility. All you can really do is give it a shot and see how it does. You might be surprised at how little damage it will do if it can at least ride on the front and rear rollers.
 
Hello Lawn Forum. First post here although I have lurked a lot in the past. I am foolish enough to attempt a home putting green here in southern Ohio. I would guess it is rolling about a 5 on the stimp meter if I had one.

I have only read 10% of this thread and learned a lot already, but I am hoping someone can give me a shortcut with my recent GM 1000 (04052) acquisition as I read through the rest of it.

This mower starts on the first pull and cut fine, but occasionally only 1/2 of the drum turns and I think I have seen it where neither half of the drum turns. It will start turning again if I move the traction engagement lever back and forth. What is the first thing to investigate for this? Is this a belt tension issue or something else?

Also, the reel takes a little more effort to spin manually than it seems like it should. Is there anyway it is related to the above issue? It actually sounds and feels like there is just some caked on grass clippings behind the reel and above the bed knife. Is there an easy way to clean that out without taking the reel off?

Thanks for the help,

-Jim
 
The Flush said:
Hello Lawn Forum. First post here although I have lurked a lot in the past. I am foolish enough to attempt a home putting green here in southern Ohio. I would guess it is rolling about a 5 on the stimp meter if I had one.

I have only read 10% of this thread and learned a lot already, but I am hoping someone can give me a shortcut with my recent GM 1000 (04052) acquisition as I read through the rest of it.

This mower starts on the first pull and cut fine, but occasionally only 1/2 of the drum turns and I think I have seen it where neither half of the drum turns. It will start turning again if I move the traction engagement lever back and forth. What is the first thing to investigate for this? Is this a belt tension issue or something else?

Also, the reel takes a little more effort to spin manually than it seems like it should. Is there anyway it is related to the above issue? It actually sounds and feels like there is just some caked on grass clippings behind the reel and above the bed knife. Is there an easy way to clean that out without taking the reel off?

Thanks for the help,

-Jim
Looking at this some more, it is not the drum drive belt tension, although it might have been a little lax. It appears that the the differential axle is not always turning even with the traction engagement lever engaged. It is the left side that is not turning. The right side will usually turn. However sometimes when mowing heavier grass or a near scalping situation, neither side will turn unless I give it full throttle and then it seems like both sides will turn and I am able to mow as low as I want.

Any thoughts on why the axle is not turning some of the time?
 
@The Flush Check the two belts under the exhaust for wear. I'm stealing a photo from @Holden but this is what they look like. I was having problems getting the mower to push through a hard scalp and replacing these two belts had me popping wheelies again.

 
I searched, but couldn't find the answer to what I think is a dumb question. I just replaced the reel belt on my 1600 and can't figure out how to tighten the belt with the tensioner pulley. I thought I'd be able to loosen the pulley from the inside of the machine like you can with the drive belts on the rear of the machine, but I can't get a wrench on that bolt. What am I missing? Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Redtwin said:
@The Flush Check the two belts under the exhaust for wear. I'm stealing a photo from @Holden but this is what they look like. I was having problems getting the mower to push through a hard scalp and replacing these two belts had me popping wheelies again.

Thank you. I will look at the v-belts the next time I use the mower. This morning before I saw your post I tightened the tension of the differential belt and it seemed to help. Both drums turned all the time that drive was engaged.
 
I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I have not had luck finding it.

I believe my fuel tank on my GM1000 fe120 is rusted on the inside causing it to break off and clog up my carb. I only use pure gas no ethanol. Finding evidence in my fuel filter bowl of rust like substance but I have not removed my fuel tank as I haven't looked into that yet. I want to fix this by removing the rust and coating the inside. Also would like add an additional fuel filter but not sure what to do or purchase to do so. Also I need to replace some of my fuel lines and not sure where to purchase those from.

Sorry if this has been discussed before and any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
g01fer41ife said:
I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I have not had luck finding it.

I believe my fuel tank on my GM1000 fe120 is rusted on the inside causing it to break off and clog up my carb. I only use pure gas no ethanol. Finding evidence in my fuel filter bowl of rust like substance but I have not removed my fuel tank as I haven't looked into that yet. I want to fix this by removing the rust and coating the inside. Also would like add an additional fuel filter but not sure what to do or purchase to do so. Also I need to replace some of my fuel lines and not sure where to purchase those from.

Sorry if this has been discussed before and any help will be greatly appreciated.
raymond said:
Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?

Go back a few pages. I also did this and works great.
 
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