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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know several of us here run Toro Greensmaster reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.

Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular mower.

Go here to download the Factory Service Manual for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.

Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the Kawasaki FE120 Engine . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.

If you are just looking for general Greensmaster Specifications (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:

If you are looking for part numbers for Greensmaster Accessories (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:

Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.

For common aftermarket replacement parts and accessories, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.

For uncommon replacement parts and accessories, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".

GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555
 

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I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.



This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.

Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.

Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: pop!

If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.
 

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It seems like every Spring, my Toro mowers run really rough, or worse, SURges ALL the TIme as IT strUGLES for FUel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3t7IR8OokA​

There are a few things that will prevent and solve this problem. The first is to not get a clogged carb in the first place. Always use fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil or SeaFoam to prevent the fuel from gumming things up. Always drain the fuel at the end of the season. Toro makes this easy with a set screw on the bottom of the carb that will drain fuel completely out of the tank and carb. A little Sta-bil in the tank and carb after it is empty never hurts either.

Places like Jack's Small Engines will have all the parts you need to replace fuel line filters, carb gaskets, and lots of other parts. Just check your engine model number and use it to look up the right parts for your specific engine.

Finally, the surging may still occur, as it did to me, even after new filters and draining the old fuel last fall. It takes just a few seconds to fix if your wife (or you - not judging) has a small sewing needle. The trouble lies with my favorite part, the Jet Pilot, pictured here:



and:



Use a flat head to unscrew it, and clean it very well in gasoline or carb cleaner. Take the needle and clear out the tiny hole in the bottom of the Jet Pilot. Toro made that hole way too small and it clogs easily. If you can put your lips on it and blow air out of it, it should be clean enough. That has solved a lot of trouble I've had with my GM1000s.
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I changed my input drive belts today. The old ones were all cracked up. It was a little tricky, but I was able roll the old ones off and the new ones on without too much work. Hopefully the next owner appreciates them. :D

ETA: I had to adjust the little belt guard on the front of the idler pulley. It rubbed the belts with the clutch engaged. I'm glad I checked that before putting the cover back on. It had a couple grooves worn in it so apparently it had been rubbing a while. :|

Before:


After:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wardconnor said:
So are these the 2 nuts that needs wrenches to remove transport axle? The one the wrench is on and the other one that my finger is on?

In between the frame and the drive roller - it is a 1" I think.

Also, I believe the axle on the right side of the machine (from operator position) is left-hand/reverse threaded.
 

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Glad you got them off! I hope it wasn't too trying to do so. Keep them in a drawer for resale or if you ever come across a set of wheels.

Sorry I wasn't clear earlier. For other readers, yes, the axle inside the mower, between the frame and the drum has a flat section to get a 1" wrench on it. The wrench will then lock the axle when it rests against the frame of the mower. Then you can really crank on the transport axle with another ratcheting wrench, pipe wrench, or 10' cheater bar.
 

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I bought a flex 21 last weekend cheap long story short there's a loud noise coming from the gear box when you engage the drive I also can't get the reel to spin all the time I can adjust the cable and get it to spin some. I drained all the fluid pulled the cover off there was no metal and everything seemed to be in place. I'm guessing the clutch is probably wore out but what could the loud grinding noise be. I'm currently using my GM1000 so the flex is looking like a project.
 

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Here is a link to the user manual of the first series of Toro Flex 21s it's all basic (but important info). Be sure you are engaging the reel/drive system correctly!

Additionally,
be sure all your belts are in good order.
be sure the reel spins freely by hand.
be sure the gearbox sprocket isn't locked up.
be sure the fluid level of the gearbox is correct.
be sure the handle that engages the gearbox for is freely moving the engagement cable.

After you've gone over all this, it's time to dig deeper. Here is a link to the Flex21 service manual.

Page 4-4 gives instruction on the correct way to adjust the cable tension for reel engagement (this helped my issues).

Page 4-24 through 4-34 gives instruction on removal/installation and overhaul of the gearbox assembly. I hope you don't need this!
 

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Bought an old Toro GreensMaster 1000 recently. I've only been able to use it once. Since then it will barely move. The reel will also struggle to move. It starts up fine though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to do my best to restore this machine.




















 

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jcdenton said:
Bought an old Toro GreensMaster 100 recently. I've only been able to use it once. Since then it will barely move. The reel will also struggle to move. It starts up fine though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to do my best to restore this machine.
Make sure the parking break isn't on (it's not on in the pictures), or stuck in the lock position at the pulley. I believe it's a tension break on the pulley.

Move the bedknife away from the reel to ensure they aren't binding.

Let us know!
 
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