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shmiggz said:
I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.

Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.
I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??

I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
 
Pamboys09 said:
shmiggz said:
I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.

Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.
I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??

I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...
 
ctrav said:
Pamboys09 said:
shmiggz said:
I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.

Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.
I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??

I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...
Two rollers gap? What gap?
I notice the belt is so tight on those belts on the side of the mower. Is thats normal, ill post some pictures tomorrow
 
Pamboys09 said:
ctrav said:
Pamboys09 said:
I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??

I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...
Two rollers gap? What gap?
I notice the belt is so tight on those belts on the side of the mower. Is thats normal, ill post some pictures tomorrow
At the rear of the GM1000 the big roller is two parts and there should be a gap as they roll independently and that's how the unit turns. Here is a pic...


Mine were close together and the belt busted so I had to replace them and now it's witking properly.




Two belts were $44 and the pulley was another $80...
 
@ctrav

Copy!

Will test that tomorrow.
Anyway I backlapped
And clean all the side guards and gears, clean airfilter and fuel filter.

Change hoc to .5 , well i just 1/2 inch of my ruler.

Anyway all i can say is this machine is a beast, its way different the way it cuts vs my Mclane.

Other than my issue that its hard for me to move the mower. All are good !

 
Pamboys09 said:
Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.

Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.

But i just want to clarify,
How can i know if i need to replace reel?
Give me some hint fellas 🙂...
Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
 
cwrx82 said:
Pamboys09 said:
Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.

Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.

But i just want to clarify,
How can i know if i need to replace reel?
Give me some hint fellas 🙂...
Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?
 
Pamboys09 said:
cwrx82 said:
Pamboys09 said:
Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.

Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.

But i just want to clarify,
How can i know if i need to replace reel?
Give me some hint fellas 🙂...
Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?
If that is your only option, then you could. It's not ideal. It could cause the bedknife to not wear evenly.
 
cwrx82 said:
Pamboys09 said:
cwrx82 said:
Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?
If that is your only option, then you could. It's not ideal. It could cause the bedknife to not wear evenly.
So the best route is if im going to replace my bedknife, i should replace the reel too? ( Which i dont mind since i bought it used and the owner told me he havent change the reel yet.

I will get the bearing of the reel aswell.

Once received the order the best way is to just backlap with 120 and 180 grit??
 
@Pamboys09 you can have the reel ground to be true or buy a new one. If you're going to buy a new one, then replace the bearings while you're in there. Once you either have the current reel ground or buy a new one, yes, backlap the reel to the bedknife to mate them. 120 and 180 are fine. That's what I used when I swapped reels.
 
cwrx82 said:
@Pamboys09 you can have the reel ground to be true or buy a new one. If you're going to buy a new one, then replace the bearings while you're in there. Once you either have the current reel ground or buy a new one, yes, backlap the reel to the bedknife to mate them. 120 and 180 are fine. That's what I used when I swapped reels.
got it, i went to R&R website, just to confirm the three i circle below are the one i need to order, correct?

 
SGrabs33 said:
@Pamboys09 sorry if I missed it but why exactly do you think you need a new REEL?
I just want to have inventory ready, im planning to sell my mclane so in case my 1600 goes down i have important parts ready.

Reel Low Dad said:
@Pamboys09 you will probably need all the seals and wave washers as well. So parts 21,23,71,72.
Wait wheres 21?
 
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