My St Augustine Floratam wont green up like it should, its nice and thick but has a lot if lime green or yellowing in spots. I guess i need to do a soil test, Any suggestions?
Mack
Do a pull test. Does it still anchor to the ground pretty well? Likely iron or soil pH
Does it pull up with little effort? If so, look for movement in the soil below - evidence of grubs, sod worms, army worms, etc. If you find no animal evidence, TARR is possible.
Id also suggest digging near the advancing edges of the yellowing areas. Sometimes the pests move on to the greener spots, so looking under the already yellow stuff is not always revealing.
Does it pull up with little effort? If so, look for movement in the soil below - evidence of grubs, sod worms, army worms, etc. If you find no animal evidence, TARR is possible.
Id also suggest digging near the advancing edges of the yellowing areas. Sometimes the pests move on to the greener spots, so looking under the already yellow stuff is not always revealing.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=394391#p394391
This post in my lawn journal -- the last picture is the roots of my centipede areas where that yellowing is notable. Look how the hairs on the roots are all gone, they're really kind of stubby and short, but they're not all black and rotten like a disease looks like. Something is eating the roots. I'm still not sure I've figured out what it is.
Just posting it to show you the kind of thing you might see if the grass pulls up really easily.
This post in my lawn journal -- the last picture is the roots of my centipede areas where that yellowing is notable. Look how the hairs on the roots are all gone, they're really kind of stubby and short, but they're not all black and rotten like a disease looks like. Something is eating the roots. I'm still not sure I've figured out what it is.
Just posting it to show you the kind of thing you might see if the grass pulls up really easily.
This is spot on. A lot of people will look at the yellow and assume Nitrogen or iron, etc. Deficiencies always have some root cause. And at this time of the year fungus makes the most sense. I just ordered a bottle of Clearys for a trouble spot like this. Also something I have been noticing is just how well thatch and testing sprinklers during the day plays into fungus acceleration and development. Something I am going to start doing is right before testing my irrigation, to put down either a preventative rate of Azoxy or hit it with a 3oz/1000 of propiconazole once I'm done.Mack said:
After drops of Propi, Azoxy and Clearys…I am still fighting the yellowing. That being said, the most effective element to remedy seems to be rising temperatures. While I have not been able to eliminate the yellowing, it appears my grass is surviving it. I would say I was unable to get a curative, but definitely a suppression.
Some of my neighbors were not as lucky and I see a lot of damage that had accumulated. Once the heat and sun spikes up their turf will probably show more damage.
Time will tell. Next year…drop fungicide in the fall to help address this before the spring warm-up.
Some of my neighbors were not as lucky and I see a lot of damage that had accumulated. Once the heat and sun spikes up their turf will probably show more damage.
Time will tell. Next year…drop fungicide in the fall to help address this before the spring warm-up.
If you could pull up a long stolon with yellow grass place intact and post it here that would be a big help.UltimateLawn said:
When you say "drops" what rate did you use?
I'd go in at 4lbs/1000 of Azoxy and 4oz/1000/gallon of Clearys. Would skip the prop. due to heat. Would also add seaweed to the mix for stress prevention.
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