I'm interested in everyones views on this as well. Specifically is prodiamine more effective than Dithiopyr or are they interchangeable?

 

From a Dimension (dithiopyr) label:
"Use Dimension 2EW on seeded, sodded, or sprigged lawns and ornamental turfgrass that are well established. Newly established turf must have developed a good root system and a uniform stand, and have received at least two mowings following seeding, sodding, or sprigging before making the first application of this product. Use of this product on turf that is not well-established, or has been weakened by weather, pest, disease, chemical, mechanical or other related stress, may result in turf injury."

Frim a Prodiamine label:
"To avoid turfgrass injury, do not apply to newly set sod until the sod has rooted and exposed edges have filled in."

These products impair root development. So, not a problem for already well developed grass. But for new grass or grass without a good root system (sod's roots are cut off when harvesting it), it can be a problem.

Both products work. They probably have different lengths of time they are effective. Read the labels.

 

I'm interested in everyones views on this as well. Specifically is prodiamine more effective than Dithiopyr or are they interchangeable?

So Dithiopyr is better for crab grass and is better used in the spring. Mainly because Dithiopyr has some post emergent benefits for crab grass control; if the crab grass hasn't reached the 3 leaf phase, and if you read the label and apply it at the proper higher rates.

Dithiopyr can also be used sooner after seed has been put down, the label says it can be used after new grass reaches two cuts. So you can drop PR in the spring, in April, and still get your Dithiopyr down in early May. It won't take care of all the crab grass, but you will control some of it.

Prodiamine is better for poa-a which germinates in late august. It lasts longer, but is harder on new grass.

Because Dithiopyr has some post emergent benefits my typical plan involves....

1.) Dropping 1/3 of my allowed annual rate of Prodiamine when the forsythia first comes up.

2.) Drop 1/2 my allowed annual rate of Dithiopyr in Late May.

3.) Drop the 2nd 1/3 of my Prodiamine early August just before nights get below 70deg

4.) Drop my last 3rd of 1/3 of my Prodiamine late september

5.) Lastly I drop my last 1/2 of my Dithiopyr late november just incase we have a mild winter. its kind of a hail mary pass, just incase I have any poa-a that got through.

Its important to note that no pre-m works 100%, some poa-a always gets through, and that if you get mild winter, the poa-a could sneak through without the last Dithiopyr application.

You do need to be careful with your measurements and your maximum yearly rates though, this plan puts you right on line of the annual limit.

Any poa-a that gets through all of that pre-m, has to be taken care of in the spring; with either tenacity or something else. The poa-a that germinates through the fall and reaches spring is probably considered mature pao-a at this point is much more difficult to control.

 

This is a fantastic game plan I definitely need to follow this. I actually have all the products in my garage to probably cover me for about three years I'm a granular lawn product hoarder 😂. I can't pass up on clearance lawn products. We need this book marked for future reference

 

Might be better to list out how long of coverage all those steps provide?

 

I would do nothing to sod except push growth in the Fall. When I say nothing I mean any kind of -cide that might risk damaging the sod. In the backyard, I would look to see when the soil annually reaches 70 degrees for Buffalo, NY, and throw down a few weeks ahead of that with the pre-em. Last year I used The Anderson's Prodiamine. I'll use it again this year as it did well to minimize poa annua and other weeds.

 

I've used The Andersons Barricade for 3 seasons. I apply the max rate 60% in Fall and 40% in early spring. Thus is the first sprint where I can actually see that I've gotten the upper hand on Annual Bluegrass. I've also worked very hard at building my sandy loam soil with organic material, and strengthening my KBG. Those are also factors. But in the end, the single best thing done was to apply Barricade in the fall. And GO BILLS!

 

Thanks all who have replied so far, real good helpful info. NElawn, I'm guessing you mean by dropping the pre-m by rates of 1/2 or 1/3, you are referring solely to liquid products? If so, can you please share what products you use?

Good advice Old Hickory for me to hold off applying anything to new sod except reg fert nitrogen. I may purchase prodiamine for back TTTF lawn for this fall and have on hand next year for KBG front as well. I have also seen Andersons Prodiamine granular and seems like big reputable company so that peeked my interest.

Thanks all

 

x2 I agree, I wouldn't do much with sod, but you should look up "fall fertlizer program" to feed the sod this fall.

As far as rates on my previous post. There is an annual limit for how much Prodiamine and Dimension to put down.

You look on the products label and look up how much coverage you want, and it will tell you how much product to put down.

In the chart for Dimension they also have different rates for various lawns, residential lawns get a lower rate, while post emergent control of crab grass is a much higher rate.

They also have a yearly maximum, I take that maximum and divide it into 3 for Prodiamine and 2 for Dimension. My main pre-m concern is during aug-dec poa-a germination and mar-jun crab grass germination.

You don;t just set a number on the spreader and forget about it. You basically have to know the size of your lawn and do the math, and then make sure you weight it out.

Granular or liquid doesn't;t matter; but I apply Prodiamine in liquid form, and Dimension in granular form. Dimension in concentrate is much more expensive and my last "hail mary" dimension app tends to be last minute just before some rain comes in so granular works well.

 

On a side note, just had Scotts ProVista KBG sod laid my front lawn 2 days ago. Can anytime tell me if safe for the grass to apply a pre emergent herbicide end of August (3-4 weeks) only after sod laid? I don't wanna miss "germination" window for Poa Annua.

If you have provista KBG, you can spray glyphosate next year and kill all of the poa annua. But keyword, next year.

 

This was the answer. I’m not sure why nobody else said it?

 

Interesting. Prodiamine in the fall has done a great job for me controlling my poa problem. I would say 80% reduction year over year to the point where I have very little now. What’s there now I can just pluck out.

 

I thought I read where poa germinated in the fall when the soil temp hit 70°. Just need to verify that and drop accordingly

 

From my understanding poa-a begins to germinate some time in Early august when nights get below 70deg. Hence the reason why....

1st 1/3 of the Prodiamine goes down when the Frosenthia bush buds in the spring to control crab grass

2nd of the 1/3 Prodiamine in early August when the nights go below 70 degrees, to control poa-a

3rd and last 1//3 of the Prodiamine late September, when its prime time poa-a germination

The hail mary dose of Dithiopyr in late november or early December is because winters are getting so mild, that there isn a good chance that the September app of Prodiamine wears off and the pao-a sneaks through in late december,

No pre emergent works 100% the poa-a sneaks though, and who can really say when the poa-a august really starts germinating. Early August is just a way to get ahead of the curve, and the last hail mary Dithiopyr app in the winter is a just in case you get a mild winter. Then you start it all over again next year.