The body length is not that important. You care about the stem that extends above ground. They are sold in 4in, 6in and 12in. If you mow at 4in then go with 6in, otherwise the water will hit the grass. 12in are good if you need to avoid an object (eg. cable box).

 

@g-man exactly what I needed to know. Thank you. I'm going to enjoy watering the berm...eh...fescue with these.

 

If drip depot is still sold out, local site ones usually stock hunter pro spray and mp rotators. Also with the 3000s give your self a bit of leeway from the 30' spray. They use a lot of water flow and at least on my system the coverage is limited to around 28'.

 

Hey, @OnyxsLawn , thanks for that tip. I've trialed with two Hunter ADJs and have been impressed with their distance. I'm going with the MP3000 because they seem to offer comparable difference and excel at even coverage. If I can get 26-32, I'll be happy.

I have a site one within an hour of my house. It's good to know that there is another resource. Last night when I was compiling my order, drip depot had apparently received more stock that day, as I was able to load up my cart with 8-3/4 bases :dunno:

Planning to close the deal today.

 

Sprinkler warehouse looks to have them in stock, too.

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Hunter-Sprinkler-Spray-Body-p/pros-04-prs40-cv.htm

 

thanks, @gm560 . I ordered everything yesterday. I got the sprinklers and spray bodies from drip depot. Had to go to sprinklerwarehouse for spikes (drip depot sold out when I placed my order).
I considered just driving to siteone, but I don't think I have 2 hours to spare for that this week.

I'm probably going to need to buy a few more hoses as well--unless I find a less expensive and practical alternative using PVC pipe.

 

thanks, @gm560 . I ordered everything yesterday. I got the sprinklers and spray bodies from drip depot. Had to go to sprinklerwarehouse for spikes (drip depot sold out when I placed my order).
I considered just driving to siteone, but I don't think I have 2 hours to spare for that this week.

I'm probably going to need to buy a few more hoses as well--unless I find a less expensive and practical alternative using PVC pipe.

Could you use poly pipe? Most Lowes carry the 100 PSI rated variety. 100 ft of the 3/4 mainline is like $22. You would need to buy a bunch of fittings, too but even so, I would think you could do this more economically than garden hoses, and you could reuse it when you go in ground.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/ADS-3-4-in-x-100-ft-100-PSI-Plastic-Coil-Pipe/3514714

 

Great idea, but I would spend the extra $8/100ft to get the 160psi rated one. It provides a thicker wall that makes it a lot more durable (small rocks) and to handle heaving or burst pressures.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ADS-3-4-in-x-100-ft-160-PSI-Plastic-Coil-Pipe/3514724

 

@gm560 and @g-man thanks so much for the direction here. I'm nearly at the point where I need to execute a plan, and I am still bumbling a bit trying to make the best decisions rather than simply using something that will work only temporarily.

I have been considering polypipe as well, but I'm stuck at this point in my reading of irrigationtutorials, and I'm really not sure what to do, as I just haven't had enough time to investigate.

I'm on board for the one rated at 160psi--but for that price (~$60), I'm paying what I would for a 100 ft hose. I have noticed that Eric used this https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/polypipe/1-100-psi-irrigation-pipe-yellow-label-flexible-water-pipe/p-1444431564118.htm
It is $20 more, but also 3 times longer at 300 ft.

 

@gm560 and @g-man thanks so much for the direction here. I'm nearly at the point where I need to execute a plan, and I am still bumbling a bit trying to make the best decisions rather than simply using something that will work only temporarily.

I have been considering polypipe as well, but I'm stuck at this point in my reading of irrigationtutorials, and I'm really not sure what to do, as I just haven't had enough time to investigate.

I'm on board for the one rated at 160psi--but for that price (~$60), I'm paying what I would for a 100 ft hose. I have noticed that Eric used this https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/polypipe/1-100-psi-irrigation-pipe-yellow-label-flexible-water-pipe/p-1444431564118.htm
It is $20 more, but also 3 times longer at 300 ft.

That looks like it's the 1 inch version of the stuff I linked to at Lowes. Roughly the same price as the 3/4 at Lowes, so for 1 inch that appears to be a pretty good price. I don't have Menards near me, so Lowes was really my only option. HD had very little to choose from in stores. However the reason that is so much cheaper than what @g-man sent is it is 100psi rated, not 160psi. I used about 500 ft of the 3/4 100 psi stuff in my DIY install. We will see how it holds up, hopefully not a mistake.

 

@gm560 and @g-man thanks so much for the direction here. I'm nearly at the point where I need to execute a plan, and I am still bumbling a bit trying to make the best decisions rather than simply using something that will work only temporarily.

I have been considering polypipe as well, but I'm stuck at this point in my reading of irrigationtutorials, and I'm really not sure what to do, as I just haven't had enough time to investigate.

I'm on board for the one rated at 160psi--but for that price (~$60), I'm paying what I would for a 100 ft hose. I have noticed that Eric used this https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/polypipe/1-100-psi-irrigation-pipe-yellow-label-flexible-water-pipe/p-1444431564118.htm
It is $20 more, but also 3 times longer at 300 ft.

That looks like it's the 1 inch version of the stuff I linked to at Lowes. Roughly the same price as the 3/4 at Lowes, so for 1 inch that appears to be a pretty good price. I don't have Menards near me, so Lowes was really my only option. HD had very little to choose from in stores. However the reason that is so much cheaper than what @g-man sent is it is 100psi rated, not 160psi. I used about 500 ft of the 3/4 100 psi stuff in my DIY install. We will see how it holds up, hopefully not a mistake.

thanks, gm560. It is surprising how much the psi rating changes price.
I don't have a Menard's near me either, so I am looking into their shipping options.
I found this https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/pipe/polypipe/1-sdr-11-5-160-psi-excel-polyethylene-potable-water-pipe/13210/p-1444431564085.htm at 1 inch--that might actually be the best bet. Spend $100 or so and I should be set, once I get my connections figured out
I think 100psi is ok, but I think I remember irrigation tutorials mentioning that it is better to have 160 if you have rocks in the soil (which I, no doubt, do).

I remember seeing several irrigation posts by you, but I'm trying to remember if you have an full irrigation build thread or not (I've read so many over the last few months). If so, I may just follow your lead.

 

I dont have a thread. Very bad at documenting my work, usually just heads down trying to get sht done. Maybe this could be my new years resolution.

I actually started where you are. I progressed from "I will just hook up garden hoses to my valves", to "holy crap Im about to spend $300 on f'ing hoses", to "well since I have this poly pipe, why not bury it". I ended up with a 6 zone system (one being a drip), running 12 MP Rotators, with about 60% of the polypipe above ground. I was able run a lot of it through landscape beds, and only had to trench the mainline for 3 of the zones. I dug to bury all of the funny pipe and heads in the lawn, even if the mainline was above ground in a landscape bed.

 

Found some 160 psi 1 inch polypipe at TSC. $55 for 100 ft. I'll plan to pick it up tomorrow.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/160-psi-polyethylene-flexible-coil-pipe-1-in-x-100-ft-3182089

For my connections, it looks like I'm going to be using plastic barbed connections. No cement or clamps needed--just the force required to insert them into the pipe? Does that sound correct?
And I will connect one end to my spigots (via a 1" to 3/4" garden hose adapter). Sound about right?
I'll need to look into connecting to my spray bodies later.

 

I dont have a thread. Very bad at documenting my work, usually just heads down trying to get sht done. Maybe this could be my new years resolution.

I actually started where you are. I progressed from "I will just hook up garden hoses to my valves", to "holy crap Im about to spend $300 on f'ing hoses", to "well since I have this poly pipe, why not bury it". I ended up with a 6 zone system (one being a drip), running 12 MP Rotators, with about 60% of the polypipe above ground. I was able run a lot of it through landscape beds, and only had to trench the mainline for 3 of the zones. I dug to bury all of the funny pipe and heads in the lawn, even if the mainline was above ground in a landscape bed.

:lol: I never thought I would actually be planning for an in-ground install one day. 'The progression is real' :thumbup:

 

I dont have a thread. Very bad at documenting my work, usually just heads down trying to get sht done. Maybe this could be my new years resolution.

I actually started where you are. I progressed from "I will just hook up garden hoses to my valves", to "holy crap Im about to spend $300 on f'ing hoses", to "well since I have this poly pipe, why not bury it". I ended up with a 6 zone system (one being a drip), running 12 MP Rotators, with about 60% of the polypipe above ground. I was able run a lot of it through landscape beds, and only had to trench the mainline for 3 of the zones. I dug to bury all of the funny pipe and heads in the lawn, even if the mainline was above ground in a landscape bed.

:lol: I never thought I would actually be planning for an in-ground install one day. 'The progression is real' :thumbup:

I know. My neighbors thought I was nuts. I am fortunate enough to live in a fairly affluent town where most people do 0% of their own house work, so doing something like this yourself was completely insane to them. Honestly I probably could have hired someone to do it, but am a bit of a glutton for punishment, I guess.

I will say, it was a very rewarding process. Even though trenching was back breaking work, now that I am done, every time I see the alert on my phone from my Rain Machine that the sprinklers just turned on, I get a little feeling of pride.

 

Social port, what would your design GPM be? 1in might be an overkill. For long runs, it makes sense, but once you are going short distance, the 3/4in is easier to handle and more than enough with the mp flows.

Irrigationtutorials advised against using the 100psi poly for the mains. You don't want the main breaking because it turns expensive. Some places have 70 to 80 psi city pressures. Thee 100psi sounds ok, but when you close a valve, there is a spike of pressure that's not ideal. Buried stuff of the laterals, I don't think it is a huge deal, but I do like having margin of safe factor for the mains.

Menards sells a 125psi polypipe and it iwas what I used for my laterals.

 

Honestly I probably could have hired someone to do it, but am a bit of a glutton for punishment, I guess.

I will say, it was a very rewarding process.

I understand. I enjoy the sense of accomplishment. I also don't like the feeling of not knowing about every little thing that pertains to my house. The more I know, the quicker I can identify a problem if one develops and also likely have a solution to that problem (or so I tell myself).

I've gotten to the point where I get a kick out of what my neighbors must think about me. My favorite time is seeding day when I am throwing peat moss over 20k (and myself) as if my life depends on it.

 

Social port, what would your design GPM be?

g-man, my design has not advanced enough to have many of the details settled. I can tell you that I have between 6.6 - 7.8 GMP at 3 different spigots.

1in might be an overkill. For long runs, it makes sense, but once you are going short distance, the 3/4in is easier to handle and more than enough with the mp flows.

That is a good point.

I do have a lot of space to cover, so I would imagine that a few long runs will be unavoidable.

For now, I was thinking of letting the 1 inch essentially be my 'first-in-line' hose, carrying water from the manifold to the first sprinkler. To connect sprinkler 1 to 2, I would transition to a garden hose (at least for now). But maybe 3/4 would be wiser in terms of cost and benefits.

I don't know if you saw the thread or not, but I compared 1 inch pvc to 5/8 garden hose in terms of how each affected the coverage distance in a Hunter ADJ sprinkler. I found virtually no difference. After that finding, I've been hoping that a difference would be detectable when chaining 2-3 sprinklers together.

 

I don't know if you saw the thread or not, but I compared 1 inch pvc to 5/8 garden hose in terms of how each affected the coverage distance in a Hunter ADJ sprinkler. I found virtually no difference. After that finding, I've been hoping that a difference would be detectable when chaining 2-3 sprinklers together.

Yea for 1 PGP, which with its standard 3.0 blue nozzle is like ~3.5gpm (dont quote me on this). So one off a hose bib worked fine for me with a hose or poly. Two would have been a different ball game. I wouldnt be surprised if one or both didnt even pop up. They use a lot of water and if you are anything like me, your hose bib is probably fed by 1/2 copper, so the hose after it won't make a huge difference from what I have read.

 

The killer is the pressure loss as water flows thru the pipes. The more water flow (gpm), the faster the velocity of the water thru the pipe is. The velocity causes friction pressure losses on the wall of the pipe. The longer the run, the more pressure loss you will have. So a larger pipe ID will allow the same qty of water to flow thru it at a slower velocity, thus less friction loss.

For pipes, bigger is better. My rule of thumb is if less than 5gpm, less than 50ft and more than 60psi, then 3/4in is fine. Otherwise use 1in. More than 150ft, do the proper calculations with the tables. The worst thing you want is to bury all the pipe and not have enough pressure because you tried to save $20.

 

The killer is the pressure loss as water flows thru the pipes. The more water flow (gpm), the faster the velocity of the water thru the pipe is. The velocity causes friction pressure losses on the wall of the pipe. The longer the run, the more pressure loss you will have. So a larger pipe ID will allow the same qty of water to flow thru it at a slower velocity, thus less friction loss.

For pipes, bigger is better. My rule of thumb is if less than 5gpm, less than 50ft and more than 60psi, then 3/4in is fine. Otherwise use 1in. More than 150ft, do the proper calculations with the tables. The worst thing you want is to bury all the pipe and not have enough pressure because you tried to save $20.

Less than 50 ft between sprinklers, or less than 50 ft between main water source (spigot in my case) and sprinkler?

 

Less than 50ft at that water flow regardless of the source. Again, this is just my approach.

 

Less than 50ft at that water flow regardless of the source. Again, this is just my approach.

Your approach is usually a good one.

It actually looks like 1 inch might be best, then, because I'm between 6-8 GPM (more than 5gpm), I may have a 50 ft run at some points, and am at 50 psi (less than 60 psi).