I do all kinds of combos with whatever I need. Today I will be spraying TNex, Fipronil, Urea, Quinclorac and MSM. TNex will be .38 for the T419 and .25 for the Empire. MSM will only go on the T419 for spurge. I've never mixed in any fungicides but I'm pretty sure they would be compatible as well. Out of your list above, I have never sprayed Coagen, Recognition, or Fusalide with my TNex apps but all the others have mixed well in my experience including Ammonium Sulfate and Urea. I usually spray in the evening and water in the following morning regardless of what I'm putting down. This past week we sprayed some Palisades Zoysia with Urea, MSM, Quinclorac, and Quicksilver with no issues at all. We have not seen any damage yet but you have to be willing to have a little discoloration if you are spraying in this heat.

When it's time, I have no qualms mixing in Prodiamine or Simazine with my mix as well. If you are concerned about compatibility, you could do a jar test to make sure it doesn't turn to snot before you put it in your tank.

 

This makes me feel better about tank mixing. Most of these products are extremely pricey, so I've been concerned with potentially interfering with the compounds efficacy. I'm usually spraying an acre at a time.

What dose of Urea are you using on the Empire when tank mixing? I need a nitrogen boost after massive rains every day for the past couple weeks washed out most of my recent granular application. I tried ammonium sulfate early on but it's very dirty and clogs all my filters and nozzles. I believe Urea is cleaner but also can more readily burn?

I'll have to grab some Quicksilver for the carfentrazone to target Old World Diamond Flower, the Speedzone Southern contains it, and is the reason I switched away from Celsius but I believe I need a little boost to knock it out. I currently get knockdown but can't seem to eliminate it completely.

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I believe Urea is cleaner but also can more readily burn?

The opposite. Urea is much safer to use than AMS. You can easily do .25lbs of N with not much risk of damage. At this point any time I spray anything it gets .2lb of N via Urea.

 

I put .125lbs N/1000sf from urea with my mix on the Empire. I've recently bumped it up to .25lbs N/1000sf on the T419.

 

.25 lb N per app from urea on my Empire is treating me pretty well right now. Off the AMS currently as my S levels are adequate, and I want to keep my soil pH above 6. I have some centipede spoiling the fun, and I been trying to eliminate it.

 

When mixing urea with pesticides, it’s important to proceed cautiously since compatibility can vary widely. Generally, herbicides from your list (like Speedzone, Celsius, Quinclorac, Cryder, Recognition, Fusalide II, and Prodiamine) can often be mixed with urea, but it’s crucial to perform a jar test first to check for any physical incompatibilities such as precipitation or separation. Insecticides and fungicides, especially those containing petroleum distillates like Bifen 2 EC or Propiconazole, are usually better applied separately because they may not mix well with urea or other products, potentially reducing effectiveness or causing equipment issues.

Best practice is to add water to the spray tank first, then dissolve urea, followed by herbicides, and finally insecticides or fungicides if mixing is appropriate. Avoid mixing urea with certain fertilizers like calcium nitrate or potassium chloride, as this can cause precipitation. Always prepare mixtures fresh before spraying and consult product labels or manufacturers’ guidelines. When in doubt, separate applications are safer to prevent problems with compatibility, spray quality, or plant safety.


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Thanks fellas, I’ll be getting some urea asap

 

I have a fungal outbreak, army worms, and mole crickets, and some other damage that looks insect related, so today I ran with a mix of 88oz/acre Chlorothalonil, 32oz Propiconizole, 4oz Coragen, and 6oz Bifen 2EC in 70 gallons over the entire acre. No clumping or visible inconsistencies observed. Normally I would have separated the Propi and Bifen 2EC since both are petroleum based but I wanted to try it in one shot.

Ill grab the Urea tomorrow and spray this weekend

 

For your insect damage I would not mix the Bifen and Coragen (although they do mix fine). I would spray them in alternating applications. Better for resistance management and will keep some sort of insecticide on the grass.

I tend to do it with my PGR apps.

 

For your insect damage I would not mix the Bifen and Coragen (although they do mix fine). I would spray them in alternating applications. Better for resistance management and will keep some sort of insecticide on the grass.

I tend to do it with my PGR apps.

I thought Coragen(Acelepryn) was a once a year application? You apply it in the Spring and it gives you season long control?

 

I know mixing fosetyl-al with alkaline or products containing copper or calcium causes the fosetyl-al to break down and become less soluble.

 

For me Coragen is a miracle product. Last year I had a MASSIVE infestation of sodweb worms and 4oz of coragen in 70 gallons over the acre destroyed 99% of them within 2 days. I had 100's, possibly even 1000 of the little moths all over the Lanai walls and ceiling. I have a post with photos on the site from last year's treatment. I wait till I have an outbreak significant enough to treat because the stuff is over 500 bucks a bottle.

I get zero effect on the moths/worms from Bifen or Imidacloprid. But I do see bird activity increase after applying Coagen, so it likely brings them to the surface.

 

I get zero effect on the moths/worms from Bifen or Imidacloprid.

Same here. I routinely apply those 2 as preventatives (and they work great for this), but they do not seem to stop the sod webworms.

As my yard is small, I just use granular chlorantraniliprole (aka Grub Ex) and it blasts the sod webworms out (as it does break the moth-egg-worm-moth. etc cycle). I apply it preventatively and then ramp it up when the rest of my neighborhood is getting whacked (which is every year).

 

I'm planning .25lb N per 1k of urea this evening, which is approximately 25lbs in my 70 gallon sprayer. Does it dissolve readily in tap water? Any tips on getting it to dissolve? I need to push growth while I still have time to fix some damaged areas.

 

Urea will dissolve fairly easily and 25lbs into 70 gallons you shouldn't have any issues especially if you can agitate it a little bit as that will speed up the process. Usually 1 lb into 1 Gallon dissolves pretty easy with just tap/hose water alone.

 

It'll melt down pretty easily but we usually run one of these on a drill to just make sure on our big mixes as we recycle the pump. There's usually multiple products mixed in so urea is the least of our worries.