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Poa Annua Plan??

9.6K views 31 replies 12 participants last post by  jvf1095  
#1 ·
Hello All

Want to run something by you guys. Have small patches of poa annua growing here & there in my back yard. Backyard area is a big size. Let me explain this a best as I can by stating a simple fact about poa. The poa there now will die off in the summer, drop it's seeds, & those seeds will germinate in the fall, & by next year at this time, there will be more poa as a result. So this is what I did to try & break that cycle. Took me two days, but I cut the all poa stalks with the seed & the poa itself flush to the ground, & sucked them up with a shop vac. Did every last one of them!. Next, I want to hit each cut down poa with Tenacity, followed by ETHO 4SC to kill them, even though they should die on their own, but won't be dropping seed because at least 95% of the seed heads they had are gone. (I was very thorough & methodical. Wife was gonna call the white coats). After the Tenacity & ETHO, I want to seed about mid-May. (Read you can seed with Tenacity & ETHO). With that, my question is this... Can I seed (using tall fescue) without ripping out the dead poa, just rake over it, & top dress it with good topsoil & peat moss? If so, and if the new grass is established by Sept 1; I plan to pre-emerg the living @#%^&* out of the yard heavy, to get any remaining poa seed I might have missed, plus any poa seed in the ground. Does this sound viable? OR...do I even have to spray Tenacity & ETHO on the poa since it's going to die anyway, & not drop it's seeds? THANKS!!
 
#4 ·
If you cut flush to the ground, there are no plant parts above ground to spray. But then you're talking about seeding above the dead poa like there IS something still there. If you still have leaves, spray. If not, there's no point in spraying the soil. As for seeding in May, I wonder if the seedlings will make it through the summer. You could try it but you had better be alert about when they need water.
 
#5 ·
Virginiagal...Thanks for the response. Just want to make sure what you mean. There is still some poa in each spot. Not all flush, but root is still there. But what's left of the poa should die off anyway right down to the root right? So are you saying there is no need to spray because the poa, or what's left of it will die anyway? In the past, I have seeded this late in areas, but was very diligent with watering those spots. So since the poa is going to die on it's own, can I top dress over the dead poa, seed & cover with peat moss? I don't want to rip the dead poa out because it's intertwined with my fescue Thanks!
 
#8 ·
The main reason to kill it early (before it dies anyway) is to prevent the seeds. Sounds like you've done that. But if you want to be sure it won't grow back and create more seeds before it dies, you could spray. I'm reminded of the scene in Wizard of Oz where they want to make sure the wicked witch is really dead.
 
#12 ·
The cutter 64...Reason my poa came back is this... Two years ago I nuked the back & over seeded with tall fescue. Came in beautiful! The mistake I made was I didn't pre-emerg last fall, so some poa came back, small plants, but dotted all over, some mixed in with the fescue. So I'm taking steps with the advice I got on this forum to kill the poa, now since I eliminated most of the poa seed, kill the remaining poa with Tenacity & ETHO, make sure I water the fescue seeded areas well so the fescue survives the summer as best as it can, & then pre-emerg. What I learned about pre-emerg is this... Pre emerge as early as 3rd week in August to prevent poa seed from germinating. Then pre-emerg again a month later, & one more time around end of October & then again late February. Someone on this forum (don't remember who), did that & was almost poa free afterward. Trick is after that is to make sure even if you only pre-emerg once in the early fall, that it is around last week in August & before labor day, & do it every year. Good luck.
 
#14 ·
The first response is the best one. You are making it hard on yourself. If you were able to grab them and cut the stalks, the Fiskars weed puller would have popped those plants right out of the ground. The poa stalks and seedheads will unthread right out of the fescue with that tool.
 
#20 ·
Interesting. I wonder if they are just assuming one would overseed in the fall, as opposed to strictly using it on fescue in the fall only. Anyone else here use it in the spring on fescue? I also have an email to the manufacturer about spring use versus specific to the fall since you pointed that out. (Thanks). If that's actually the case, I'll go with Tenacity only to weaken the poa, since it's going to die anyway. At least it won't drop any seeds.
 
#21 ·
My opinion is forget about spraying the Poa A now.
I have mostly TTTF (and triv! grrrr) and am experienced with Etho. It works great when used in the fall. The label says any spring apps should be made only after fall apps. The reason is because it's less effective on mature Poa A that has been growing since last fall. It's most effective when the Poa is at the 2- and 4-leaf stage, which it's well beyond by the time spring rolls around and they're big enough to be visually obvious in the lawn.

WIth your fall TTTF overseeding regimen, you do whatever prep you're going to do (such as burn everything else down with roundup) then drop your seed and roll it in, cover with peat moss if you like, then same day spray right over the top with Tenacity and Etho tank mixed. About 4-5 weeks later, make another app of Tenacity only. You will make a second app of Etho but you want to wait until pretty close to the first frost (which might be 8-12 weeks after the first app). I have not applied any prodiamine in the fall. It's unnecessary between the pre-M activity of Tenacity and Etho snuffing things out, and the prodiamine doesn't do any good for root development of new TTTF even if you wait the label-mandated 60 days post-emergence. Hold off until spring to make your prodiamine apps timed for crabgrass pre-M.

I have done this the past two autumns. The first spring it had reduced the Poa A to about a dozen plants, all easily hand pulled once the seed heads made them visible. This spring (second spring after doing those fall apps) I have seen precisely ONE Poa plant. It was close to the edge of the small landscaped bed around my mailbox, under a dwarf holly, so I probably just missed that area with the sprayer when doing my fall apps.

I have negligible broadleaf weeds, negligible/zero Poa A. If I didn't have triv I'd basically have no lawn problems. Unfortunately that's about the worst problem to have.
 
#22 ·
Hello & thanks Scott! Makes sense now because an ETHO rep said it's only effective on small growing poa. So, can I do this...Seed with fescue now in the areas where I cut the poa down, left the crown & vacuumed up the poa seed? Just lightly rake the fescue into those areas & top dress them with good top soil & peat moss? The poa crowns should die off anyway so I don't see them crowding out the fescue seed. In fact, the dead or dying poa crown might help hold the fescue seed in place & not wash out. I know seeding now, some fescue might not come in because we'll be heading into summer in a couple of months. But I'm retired, so I can lightly water those spots everyday & I have been successful seeding this time of year in the past. Then, in the fall, I can over seed those areas & go with the regime you suggest. Do you think that should work for me? Thanks!!!
 
#25 ·
2022 begins the battle with Poa Annua…

Step 1 won't eliminate what's already in your lawn, but suppressing spring seed heads is the first phase in breaking the cycle. I followed NuFarm's advice with two applications 21 days apart of Quali-Pro Ethephon 2 SL (generic for Proxy) and Anuew discussed here:

https://www.advancedturf.com/resources/anuew-qa-for-poa-annua-seedhead-suppression/

I was shocked at the results - not a single seedhead in the lawn. Not naĂŻve enough to believe the battle's been won yet, but overseeding this fall will put a lot less pressure on Tenacity and Poa Constrictor to do their job.