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New St Augustine lawn browning

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3.4K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  ionicatoms  
#1 ·
Hello
We laid 50/50 soil and new grass in this spot a month and a half ago. It has been watered 3 times a week, and I fertilized it a week ago.
I brought it up to the nursery that did the work and they suggested that I fumigate it, as is "often needed".
It's a small space (7 feet by 4 or so) , and maybe it might be cheaper to replace it than to call a fumigator.

Do I really need to fumigate? And if so, can I buy something and do it myself? Of all the new lawn they laid, there are 2 spots that looj brownish like this, and the rest are ok.
Thank you
Image
 
#2 ·
It would be your choice as to buy new sod and replace. Start afresh! or apply a fungicide. Watch your late afternoon watering, chance fungus came from to much water or late afternoon/evening watering (fungus can come from water sitting on the roots) Also I would put a very small amount of fertilizer on soil before laying sod. See how much sunlight your getting. Never heard of fumigating
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hello
We laid 50/50 soil and new grass in this spot a month and a half ago. It has been watered 3 times a week, and I fertilized it a week ago.
I brought it up to the nursery that did the work and they suggested that I fumigate it, as is "often needed".
It's a small space (7 feet by 4 or so) , and maybe it might be cheaper to replace it than to call a fumigator.

Do I really need to fumigate? And if so, can I buy something and do it myself? Of all the new lawn they laid, there are 2 spots that looj brownish like this, and the rest are ok.
Thank you
View attachment 6984
There are a number of people who laid St Aug sod after new builds who have seen a serious drop off like that in the first year.

My whole yard ended up looking like yours about 3 months in and it’s not clear whether it was too much water, compaction or fungus.

Im hoping year two fixes it as the roots have had a chance to become established, but my to-do list is:
-check pH
- fix compaction issues through aeration and top dressing yard
-reduce watering to 2x/week
-apply preventative fungicide to stay ahead of issues
-break up fertilizer applications in half or thirds to avoid stressing out the grass

I wouldn’t bring in any new sod until/unless you can figure out why the old sod struggled.

If god forbid it’s TARR the issue is in the soil and it will kill any new sod you put down on it.
 
#9 ·
Liquid fungicide is better for corrective treatment. I would start you with Propiconazole 14.3 or Eagle 20EW. Mix with water, spray, and then water it in to the root zone. Watch out for temperature limits.


If you can’t or won’t do a liquid treatment, you could buy a granular fungicide product like DiseaseEx or similar.
 
#10 ·
Thanks ionic atoms (don't all atoms have an iconic charge???).

I have a sediment filter in my well pump irrigation system, and I'm thinking about removing it, filling the plastic container with the liquid fungicide, and then irrigating my lawn, so that the liquid blends in with the water. Would that work if I run it for 3 to 4 minutes? Obviously, I don't want to dilute the fungicide.