I usually start once I can no longer keep up with the growth by mowing twice a week. Last year it was in April here in North Florida.

 

I usually start once I can no longer keep up with the growth by mowing twice a week. Last year it was in April here in North Florida.

@Redtwin

Good deal. :thumbup:

 

I'm 100% with @Redtwin I let clipping yield drive my PGR applications.

The biggest issue I see here is the iron sulfate and humic acid. Humic acid is only soluble at high pH and iron sulfate will be readily oxidized in high pH conditions to iron (III), or ferric iron. This form is not available to the plant.

Fulvic acid is soluble under a wide range of pH values, so if you could take out the humic it would make everything compatible. The other option is to just spray the humic as part of the mix at the correct pH (5ish) and accept that it will be a suspension rather than a solution, but that can be dodgy if you don't have tank agitation.

 

Whew! I think I just blew a fuse in my left cerebral cortex reading that. @CarolinaCuttin I'm thinking of going full liquid for my plan this season as I am hoping to keep my bermuda very low and dense. I am several years away from mixing the multiple products and checking chemistry compatibility as @Theycallmemrr is doing. I'm going to keep it down to a simple soluble balanced fert. I use a M4S sprayer as well so I don't think spraying any suspension would be a good idea even if I could figure out the pH requirements.

 

Whew! I think I just blew a fuse in my left cerebral cortex reading that. @CarolinaCuttin I'm thinking of going full liquid for my plan this season as I am hoping to keep my bermuda very low and dense. I am several years away from mixing the multiple products and checking chemistry compatibility as @Theycallmemrr is doing. I'm going to keep it down to a simple soluble balanced fert. I use a M4S sprayer as well so I don't think spraying any suspension would be a good idea even if I could figure out the pH requirements.

Yeah I also use a backpack sprayer so I always spray solutions unless I absolutely have to, which usually only happens with fungicides. I'm a huge fan of liquid only!

Lots of university research and lower budget golf courses are seeing great success with urea + iron sulfate + PGR on greens. For me the key is to maintain compatibility and select nutrient sources that are able to be taken up by the foliage (for those of us that spray). Iron sulfate and urea are great examples of this.

For greens especially on a sand base there is an argument to be made for specialty nutrition products, but I am starting to get to the point where I think anything fairway height and above can be maintained at elite golf course quality with a few simple ingredients. I can't wait for the grass to really start growing!

 

@CarolinaCuttin and @Redtwin, I am also looking to convert to all spray this growing season. I have just under 10k turf and a 4 gallon battery sprayer. Is there any advantage to using AMS 21-0-0 vs. urea 46-0-0? Not being a perfect sprayer yet, I am worried about burning. Any thoughts?

 

@CarolinaCuttin and @Redtwin, I am also looking to convert to all spray this growing season. I have just under 10k turf and a 4 gallon battery sprayer. Is there any advantage to using AMS 21-0-0 vs. urea 46-0-0? Not being a perfect sprayer yet, I am worried about burning. Any thoughts?

Urea has a lower burn potential per pound of N applied, and urea is a true foliar with the great majority of it being able to enter the plant through the leaves.

All N can be absorbed through the leaf to some degree but urea is the gold standard, nothing moves better than urea. I would add some iron sulfate since you're already out there spraying. It will give you great results.

 

@CarolinaCuttin and @Redtwin, I am also looking to convert to all spray this growing season. I have just under 10k turf and a 4 gallon battery sprayer. Is there any advantage to using AMS 21-0-0 vs. urea 46-0-0? Not being a perfect sprayer yet, I am worried about burning. Any thoughts?

Urea has a lower burn potential per pound of N applied, and urea is a true foliar with the great majority of it being able to enter the plant through the leaves.

All N can be absorbed through the leaf to some degree but urea is the gold standard, nothing moves better than urea. I would add some iron sulfate since you're already out there spraying. It will give you great results.

To add to what @CarolinaCuttin said, AMS also can lead to a drop (more acidic) in pH. My soil is already acidic so once I run out I am switching to urea which should not affect pH.

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

Depends on how much N you want in a given month. You can do 1lb of Urea every 1K ft which is .46lbs of N per 1K.
I normally do 2-3 lbs of Urea every 2 weeks for my 2700 sq ft front yard. thats around .40-.50 or something. I don't get precise with the math.... numbers are hard. If im pushing growth i go more, if I'm not I go lower.

Some people go lower rates around .25 lbs of N per 1k... depends on what your going for.

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

Depends on how much N you want in a given month. You can do 1lb of Urea every 1K ft which is .46lbs of N per 1K.
I normally do 2-3 lbs of Urea every 2 weeks for my 2700 sq ft front yard. thats around .40-.50 or something. I don't get precise with the math.... numbers are hard. If im pushing growth i go more, if I'm not I go lower.

Some people go lower rates around .25 lbs of N per 1k... depends on what your going for.

I've always heard go lower, like .25. Do you risk burning if spraying at a .4-.5 concentration?

 

I've never burned mine.
Spray as the sun as going down, water in or have rain rinse it off the following morning
Some people do .25 every week. It really depends on your goals, and if your trying to fill in areas or promote growth.
Granular Fertilizers don't do a whole lot for my yard. Night and Day difference when I started spraying.
There are a million ways to do it.

 

I would spray t nex, feature, and paclo only in June, July and August. Im thinking gdd only works on yards with low height of cut because i definitely over applied to my backyard following gdd.

 

I would spray t nex, feature, and paclo only in June, July and August. Im thinking gdd only works on yards with low height of cut because i definitely over applied to my backyard following gdd.

The higher the height of cut (all other things equal) the longer the GDD interval. I know this should be in marketplace but do you want to part with 8-16 oz of Paclo? @CenlaLowell

 

I would spray t nex, feature, and paclo only in June, July and August. Im thinking gdd only works on yards with low height of cut because i definitely over applied to my backyard following gdd.

The higher the height of cut (all other things equal) the longer the GDD interval. I know this should be in marketplace but do you want to part with 8-16 oz of Paclo? @CenlaLowell

Can't part with what I have.

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

@Cherokee_Bermuda
If you want a foliar application of nitrogen you don't want to go above 0.5 lbs of urea per M (0.25 lbs of N/M) with at least a gallon of water per M per applied. You would need to supplement with granular if you are spraying every other week to get 1 lb of N/m per month.

 

Assuming y'all are using a surfactant when spraying urea and every other foliar application?

 

Assuming y'all are using a surfactant when spraying urea and every other foliar application?

I spray with a NIS pretty much every application besides pre emergent

 

Which urea brand do you use? Do you buy online or local?

 

@Mewwwda I buy my urea at the local Site One store.

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

@Cherokee_Bermuda
If you want a foliar application of nitrogen you don't want to go above 0.5 lbs of urea per M (0.25 lbs of N/M) with at least a gallon of water per M per applied. You would need to supplement with granular if you are spraying every other week to get 1 lb of N/m per month.

Wouldn't people need to supplement a granular anyway for P&K? I just picked up some UREA at my local Ewing and some iron sulfate on Amazon from reading this thread. I have never sprayed fertilizer, but this got me intrigued. Since you seem to be experienced with this, what are you doing for P&K?

 

I had a soil test done in late fall last year so I know my P-K levels are good. I am going to put down 10-10-10 to start the season which should give me enough to maintain my levels. After that, I will be spraying urea until my last feeding before the fall to prep for winter.

 

I had a soil test done in late fall last year so I know my P-K levels are good. I am going to put down 10-10-10 to start the season which should give me enough to maintain my levels. After that, I will be spraying urea until my last feeding before the fall to prep for winter.

I used pro peat 11-11-11 last Thursday. I haven't had a problem with my lawn since I planted the Bermuda 4 years ago. Since I don't have anything local to do a soil test, I think I'll just ride with this to see how it goes as well. Maybe or maybe not, I'll throw the rest of the pro peat down that I have in late July for me not doing the soil test. I got 50lbs of Urea 46-0-0 for $20 out the door today at Ewing. If this works the way I expect, it will be such an economical year of lawn care haha. Thanks for the input.

 

Good to know. With urea, what rate would you aim for application if spraying every other week?

@Cherokee_Bermuda
If you want a foliar application of nitrogen you don't want to go above 0.5 lbs of urea per M (0.25 lbs of N/M) with at least a gallon of water per M per applied. You would need to supplement with granular if you are spraying every other week to get 1 lb of N/m per month.

Wouldn't people need to supplement a granular anyway for P&K? I just picked up some UREA at my local Ewing and some iron sulfate on Amazon from reading this thread. I have never sprayed fertilizer, but this got me intrigued. Since you seem to be experienced with this, what are you doing for P&K?

@Trippel24
You can spray potassium. I have sprayed MOP (muraite of potassh aka KCl). I am not sure what soluble form of phosphorus as I have an exceedingly high amount in my soil but it is possible.

 

Question: Is it best to wait until full green up or can you spray urea half-greened up? Will the Nitrogen get to the new growth through the root system after watering in or how does that work since there half of the bermuda hasn't grown out?