There are some guys here who mix things routinely. One of them should be able to answer.

 

T-zone already has sulfentrazone which is what dismiss contains. What weeds are you seeing? If you have crabgrass, use drive. If you have broadleaves and/or sedges, use t-zone. If you have both, mix drive and t-zone. If you haven't done it yet, add in prodiamine or dimension to that mix. I would also add a NIS (non-ionic surfactant) to it and AMS (ammomium sulfate) as some of the herbicides may bind with hard water. Maybe save the dismiss if you have spots of heavy sedges or if your lawn is littered with it, add a lower rate to the t-zone mix to help boost it. Keep in mind, sulfentrazone may brown the lawn in temps above 85. Check out the herbicide guide linked below for more info.

 

I already have all three herbicides for Dayflower, Crabgrass/Signalgrass, wild violet, broadleaves, sedge and a few other things. I just wanted to be sure it wasn't a problem to mix them so I don't have to spray the yard 3 times.

I already put down Barricade but that was just a couple of days ago. I was advised not to put it down before then because I seeded so late this last fall that nothing came up until this spring. Temps are mid-70s right now so shouldn't be a problem.

 

T-zone already has sulfentrazone which is what dismiss contains. What weeds are you seeing? If you have crabgrass, use drive. If you have broadleaves and/or sedges, use t-zone. If you have both, mix drive and t-zone. If you haven't done it yet, add in prodiamine or dimension to that mix. I would also add a NIS (non-ionic surfactant) to it and AMS (ammomium sulfate) as some of the herbicides may bind with hard water. Maybe save the dismiss if you have spots of heavy sedges or if your lawn is littered with it, add a lower rate to the t-zone mix to help boost it. Keep in mind, sulfentrazone may brown the lawn in temps above 85. Check out the herbicide guide linked below for more info.

what is the purpose of adding prodiamine to sulfentrazone?i know there are several herbicides that do it(eschelon? bonide)but why?

 

@Suburban Jungle Life I've come across a few posts the mention adding AS to a herbicide mix, but I haven't seen any elaboration on this.

I'm assuming this is the same AS product we use for FAS applications? Is there a rule of thumb on how much to use per gallon of carrier?

Thanks!

 

@Suburban Jungle Life I've come across a few posts the mention adding AS to a herbicide mix, but I haven't seen any elaboration on this.

I'm assuming this is the same AS product we use for FAS applications? Is there a rule of thumb on how much to use per gallon of carrier?

Thanks!

hey @crussell.

Some discussion of this today, actually:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8598

I can point you to a post by @Suburban Jungle Life over here:

tldr from SJL;

I use 2.5 oz per gal. Using spray grade is the best so you don't have fillers, binders, or dirt. I'm just cheap so I use the AMS which isn't spray grade. At $35 for a 50 lbs bag, I fert the lawn with it and use it in my sprays. On occasion, I'll get clogging of the sprayer but I'm not sure if there was dirt which fell into the sprayer or if it was in the AMS. As granules, you do have to agitate it more to dissolve it. Spray grade generally comes in a more powered form or fine salt like granules and is more pure. If you use AMS to fert in early spring and late fall anyway, then you already have it...

Regarding AMS and herbicides, if you are interested in reading it, I'll post up the research on it. Otherwise, I just use it with pretty much everything I spray. If you haven't already, check the PH of your tap water and then add your 2.5 oz AMS/1 gal to it and recheck the PH. It should be between 5-6 if your water was around 7. If you have alkaline water, you can add citric acid to lower it even more. (You only really need to do this the first time since your water supply probably doesn't change ph. Now you know the rates for the future.) The acidic solution will increase penetration. Keep in mind, the herbicide can also lower the PH of your solution. I always combine it with NIS or some other surfactant so you have 3 additional things to help increase the effectiveness of your chosen herbicide. N source to increase growth and aid absorption, surfactant to reduce runoff and increase leaf coverage, and acid for penetration. I like to add my mix in this order: AMS, mix, herbicide, mix, test and use citric acid if needed, surfactant (and dye if you want). As a note, for iron, I add AMS, citric acid, check ph, then add the iron last as the citric acid should be in solution to chelate the iron but that isn't the case with herbicides.

 

I do a similar approach but I use a calibrated handful of ams into my 3gallon mix. I really don't know how much I use but it is close to the 3oz/g rate. Maybe I should weight it one day to see.

 

Perfect, thanks!

 

what is the purpose of adding prodiamine to sulfentrazone?i know there are several herbicides that do it(eschelon? bonide)but why?

Just to save time. You put out your pre and post at the same time. Not ideal since the pre should be watered in but it's usually ok if the mix is watered in a few days later.

 

I now use this. Good stuff, great price.

 

I now use this. Good stuff, great price.

Yep, I have several bags of that in my basement, seems to do the job. I hate that the bags leak out the fill flap when handled though. That area of the store is always a mess with it all over the floor.

 

I've been wondering the same thing. What do ya'll typically mix together? Do you create your own 3/4-way mixes, or do you mix based on what you're trying to control?

First time doing herbicides so I don't know any of these brands. What's some good Prodiamine / Dimension / Barricuda products?

 

I've been wondering the same thing. What do ya'll typically mix together? Do you create your own 3/4-way mixes, or do you mix based on what you're trying to control?

First time doing herbicides so I don't know any of these brands. What's some good Prodiamine / Dimension / Barricuda products?

I will Id the weeds first than using the guide, see what I can use. I'll mix multiple products into one app. Though, if you use a pre, you're not gonna have many weeds anyway except in bare spots. If you got your pre down on time, you may only need to spot spray. I keep a small sprayer for that.

 

I now use this. Good stuff, great price.

Im pretty sure I know the answer but just want to be certain. This could be used as fert, too right? It no where has the NPK... why is that?

 

I now use this. Good stuff, great price.

Im pretty sure I know the answer but just want to be certain. This could be used as fert, too right? It no where has the NPK... why is that?

Yes, it is 21-0-0. It doesn't have NPK listed because it is labeled/sold as an industrial product, not a fert. But yes, it is a fertilizer. It is like sugar crystals in the bag, not granules, probably would take some tinkering to try to spread it dry.

 

Anyone ever think of (instead of spending >$100 for spot treatments) mixing something like these? That way you can have a 5-way mix for less than $15. :lol:

WBG For Lawns Concentrate
2,4-D 8.66%
MCPA 2.13%
Dicamba 0.37%

Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Concentrate 2
2,4-D 7.57%
MCPP 2.73%
Dicamba 0.71%
Sulfentrazone 0.18%

 

Anyone ever think of (instead of spending >$100 for spot treatments) mixing something like these? That way you can have a 5-way mix for less than $15. :lol:

WBG For Lawns Concentrate
2,4-D 8.66%
MCPA 2.13%
Dicamba 0.37%

Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Concentrate 2
2,4-D 7.57%
MCPP 2.73%
Dicamba 0.71%
Sulfentrazone 0.18%

They would mix, but why? You would have a very low, likely ineffective, amount of sulfentrazone in the finished product.

 

I mix a pretty badass combination for spot spraying the tough stuff, or random mix of things that typically show up early spring, or late summer. I did mix and broadcast this one time last year to wipe out a whole mess of wild violet, it worked fantastically in one treatment.

My "super scorcher" recipe:
Spectracide Weedstop+crabgrass, mixed to specification on the label:
http://www.spectracide.com/Products/Weed-And-Grass-Killers/Lawn-Weed-Killers/Spectracide-Weed-Stop-For-Lawns-Plus-Crabgrass-Killer-Concentrate.aspx
2,4-D
Quinclorac
Dicamba
Sulfentrazone

To that I add MSO (to get this stuff to stick to the difficult weeds) and the secret kicker ingredient, Brushtox brush killer, which is Triclopyr 61.6% at its bottle rate of .75floz/gal for my grass.

 

@Dkrem That's exactly what I needed! I have a whole mess of Wild Violet I need to take care of along with various other nuisance weeds that 2,4-D will control.

What's the difference between MSO and NIS?

EDIT:

I'm thinking of Spectracide For Lawns Concentrate2 instead.
2,4-D 7.57%
MCPP 2.73%
Dicamba 0.71%
Sulfentrazone 0.18%

It replaces Quinclorac with MCPP and has more 2,4-D.

 

What's the difference between MSO and NIS?

The MSO is definitely better with waxy targets.

 

T-zone already has sulfentrazone which is what dismiss contains. What weeds are you seeing? If you have crabgrass, use drive. If you have broadleaves and/or sedges, use t-zone. If you have both, mix drive and t-zone. If you haven't done it yet, add in prodiamine or dimension to that mix. I would also add a NIS (non-ionic surfactant) to it and AMS (ammomium sulfate) as some of the herbicides may bind with hard water. Maybe save the dismiss if you have spots of heavy sedges or if your lawn is littered with it, add a lower rate to the t-zone mix to help boost it. Keep in mind, sulfentrazone may brown the lawn in temps above 85. Check out the herbicide guide linked below for more info.

what is the purpose of adding prodiamine to sulfentrazone?i know there are several herbicides that do it(eschelon? bonide)but why?

I can't speak for others but I'm spot spraying with sulfentrazone in a 2 gallon pump sprayer for specific weeds. The Barricade I buy in granual form for the whole yard once a year, mainly to stop crabgrass/signalgrass, so it's two different uses. I wasn't aware sulfentrazone was used as a pre-emergent until recently - that's not what I use it for (yet?).

 

I mix a pretty badass combination for spot spraying the tough stuff, or random mix of things that typically show up early spring, or late summer. I did mix and broadcast this one time last year to wipe out a whole mess of wild violet, it worked fantastically in one treatment.

My "super scorcher" recipe:
Spectracide Weedstop+crabgrass, mixed to specification on the label:
http://www.spectracide.com/Products/Weed-And-Grass-Killers/Lawn-Weed-Killers/Spectracide-Weed-Stop-For-Lawns-Plus-Crabgrass-Killer-Concentrate.aspx
2,4-D
Quinclorac
Dicamba
Sulfentrazone

To that I add MSO (to get this stuff to stick to the difficult weeds) and the secret kicker ingredient, Brushtox brush killer, which is Triclopyr 61.6% at its bottle rate of .75floz/gal for my grass.

I like Weedstop but it won't touch the crabgrass, dayflower or wild violets I had in my yard. I need Drive, Dismiss and Tzone for that (don't recall if it's the Triclopyr or Dicamba in Tzone that kills it, but I just looked and it's dead as ****ens in two days). It seems every year I have to buy something new for one new weed that crops up. But what I really need is to get a good pre-emergent down early and often.

 

That scorcher mix destroys crabgrass too. The triclopyr really kicks everything up.

 

I now use this. Good stuff, great price.

Im pretty sure I know the answer but just want to be certain. This could be used as fert, too right? It no where has the NPK... why is that?

Yes, it is 21-0-0. It doesn't have NPK listed because it is labeled/sold as an industrial product, not a fert. But yes, it is a fertilizer. It is like sugar crystals in the bag, not granules, probably would take some tinkering to try to spread it dry.

I ran 14lbs AS (the stuff from rural king) dry in a broadcast spreader weekly for my fall spoon feeding apps. This put down just about 0.5 N/k on my 6000 sqft I was treating. Had to set the spreader to the minimum setting to get it to last, but worked out fine.

 

Good to know.