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Discussion starter · #22 ·
So kind of in a pickle here. Was easy to grow turf on the course because I was there 7 days a week but with the new job that requires travel planning seed down is going to be an issue without automatic irrigation. Looking to seed towards last week of August (My town does not allow new lawns to be planted in August but going to bend the rules a bit) but travel/ busy season coincides with that time.

Option 1: Seed 21st of August and be gone day 8 and 9 after seed down. Not ideal due to the freshly germinated seed possibly wilting and dying.

Option 2: Seed 28th of August and be gone day 3 and 4 after seed down.

Option 3: Push the limits of the town ordinance and seed the 18th and be gone day 11 and 12.

Option 4: Only seed area that has somewhat automatic irrigation and try to spring seed the other 3 smaller areas (1500 sq ft)

Option 5: One of you folks come to my house and water if for me 😆

No idea as of yet but will probably just seed it all the 21st (Option 1) and hope for the best and ask for help from the wife (unlikely). Option 1 will have me away das 8,9, 21, 22.

Edit: Should of just went with 4th millennium tttf. Anyone wanna trade haha.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Pot was reseeded 28th of May after birds demolished first seeding. Ended up just mixing all three cultivars together. Middle of pot took pretty good with sever neglect. New seedling were seeded July 6th.

Currently color of all three cultivars look very close so that is good. Some differences in leaf width is apparent but not unless you are up close. Overall happy with how it has done in a pot, neglected, and in the middle of the summer. Currently being trimmed at 3/4" with scissors.
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I need reassurance. Looking like seed down date would be late August. 21st or 25th. Second guessing myself I won't have enough time. First frost is average of 10/10 and first freeze is 10/28 (28 degrees). Feel like I'm crunched for time and won't be able to get seed down and established to my liking before first frost. Possibly postponing until next fall, switching to tttf if I can sell what I have, or just doing a portion of the front lawn. Help me out here.
 
Started killing yet? Are you using/just planning to use the regular cheap generic dimethylamine glyphosates? I saw some stuff about Amine salt vs. Potassium salt formulations having different properties (speed of kill). Never heard of anyone here using anything other than dimethylamine, or any discussions about different formulas here.

Quick update from the test pot. Mazama has lighter green and wider leaf blade. Possibly will pull it from the mix and just do after midnight and midnight.
Hmm. I would definitely double check with other previous Mazama renovators before jumping to the conclusion that it might be lighter forever. It could just be, for instance, one of those varieties that takes a year or two to darken (like Bewitched is notorious for). I never heard anyone say anything here about Mazama being lighter than Midnight once fully established...and people here are some of the pickiest with regard to grass color...almost color snobs! Personally, I prefer a wider bladed leaf texture.
 
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Discussion starter · #27 ·
Started killing yet? Are you using/just planning to use the regular cheap generic dimethylamine glyphosates? I saw some stuff about Amine salt vs. Potassium salt formulations having different properties (speed of kill). Never heard of anyone here using anything other than dimethylamine, or any discussions about different formulas here.



Hmm. I would definitely double check with other previous Mazama renovators before jumping to the conclusion that it might be lighter forever. It could just be, for instance, one of those varieties that takes a year or two to darken (like Bewitched is notorious for). I never heard anyone say anything here about Mazama being lighter than Midnight once fully established...and people here are some of the pickiest with regard to grass color...almost color snobs! Personally, I prefer a wider bladed leaf texture.
Havent killed yet. Lawn is fairly weed free so should be just two apps about 7 days apart. Just using generic gly with surfactant already mixed in and spiking with ams. If some grass remains it wont be the end of the world, will just gly those areas in the coming years. The city ordinance with no new lawns before Sept. 1st is really killing me. Will probably pull the trigger but scared the city is going to come after me.

List is growing for me to do and I am going to be cutting it close with even having seed down the 25th.

Finish hillbilly irrigation
Gly (possibly tomorrow?)
Scalp
Level
Gly
Power rake and seed

Thinking I am probably pushing this to next year, really don't want to though. Your thoughts on it being to late Sept 1?

@g-man give me some advice here too. City ordinance of not seeding before Sept. 1 isnt going to chance anytime soon, pull the trigger?
 
Havent killed yet. Lawn is fairly weed free so should be just two apps about 7 days apart. Just using generic gly with surfactant already mixed in and spiking with ams. If some grass remains it wont be the end of the world, will just gly those areas in the coming years. The city ordinance with no new lawns before Sept. 1st is really killing me. Will probably pull the trigger but scared the city is going to come after me.

List is growing for me to do and I am going to be cutting it close with even having seed down the 25th.

Finish hillbilly irrigation
Gly (possibly tomorrow?)
Scalp
Level
Gly
Power rake and seed

Thinking I am probably pushing this to next year, really don't want to though. Your thoughts on it being to late Sept 1?

@g-man give me some advice here too. City ordinance of not seeding before Sept. 1 isnt going to chance anytime soon, pull the trigger?
The only solely KBG reno I've ever done turned out extremely slow, but I was using a very slow growing type of seed, and planting in difficult conditions such as shade, very damp area, etc. A front yard would be a totally different thing and should work better, and the seed you're using germinates much faster, which you already showed.

That said, all KBG is still pretty slow compared to the TTTF I usually use as a predominant mix component when reseeding areas, and when coupled with Sept 1st issue, makes it tough if going by the book.

For comparison, I have some small areas to seed that I killed due to Triv back in the Spring, as well as a couple shaded areas that need a fine fescue overseed, and of course the usual small touch-up spots. I also wanted to do more of that shaded Reno area from 2 years ago, but the rain is killing my chances. I haven't done any seeding yet, and always seem to fall behind, so am antsy to start any day now.

Short of doing some pre-germination soaking cycles for 3 days or so, and subsequent application of seed using a carrier material (never really tried it, so can't advise how practical that might be or not) right before Sept. 1st, I'm not sure of any way to shorten the process. There are also the PGS compounds like Giberellic acids; having been a super, I'm not sure if you ever messed with those, but they're the true opposite of a PGR and sometimes used to speed up new seedings; have you considered either approach? I don't know if there are many negative tradeoffs with the PGS or not, or how much speed increase it actually gives in establishment. Short of "hacks" like these, I don't know what else you could do to speed it up. An obvious con of the pre-soaks is difficulty handling the seed, plus needing to weigh it all out ahead of time and itemize amounts to be applied before it gets waterlogged. Any thoughts?

I know your weather is very similar to mine. I really dislike seeding KBG after mid to late August here, unless it's mixed with another grass type.
 
Wow, congrats...lol.

As far as no one seeing you watering, were you thinking of watering only at certain times, and is that even workable in your opinion? I mean, you kind of need to water in the middle of the day...no real way around that.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Wow, congrats...lol.

As far as no one seeing you watering, were you thinking of watering only at certain times, and is that even workable in your opinion? I mean, you kind of need to water in the middle of the day...no real way around that.
No way I will be able to get away only watering during the dark. Im just hoping the ordinance enforcement police, whomever they may be, is not driving by during one of my 10 min cycles.

If they do end up catching me, I do hope that stating my case and my background might get me out of any fines. I only look to violate the ordinance for possibly a week and a half.

Now if the HOA has anything to say about killing the lawn, I will be sending pictures of all the lawns in the neighborhood that are 12" tall and full of weeds. DEFUND THE HOA! :ROFLMAO:
 
No way I will be able to get away only watering during the dark. Im just hoping the ordinance enforcement police, whomever they may be, is not driving by during one of my 10 min cycles.

If they do end up catching me, I do hope that stating my case and my background might get me out of any fines. I only look to violate the ordinance for possibly a week and a half.

Now if the HOA has anything to say about killing the lawn, I will be sending pictures of all the lawns in the neighborhood that are 12" tall and full of weeds. DEFUND THE HOA! :ROFLMAO:
Yeah, as you said...If they do, it can't hurt to let them know you have extensive professional experience in the turf field, and are pulling out every conceivable stop to conserve water, but that you were extremely busy and had to automate some of it if they catch on.
 
If they do end up catching me, I do hope that stating my case and my background might get me out of any fines. I only look to violate the ordinance for possibly a week and a half.
Like the idea, but your first option is always to plead ignorance. Unless you personally signed a one-page document stating you understand and will follow the ordinance, you act like you didn't know it existed. Other options include: playing the role of a landscaper/gardener hired to fix the lawn, you are family from out of town (i.e. not the homeowner), and, in the case that an "enforcement police" confronts you in person, you are deaf.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Like the idea, but your first option is always to plead ignorance. Unless you personally signed a one-page document stating you understand and will follow the ordinance, you act like you didn't know it existed. Other options include: playing the role of a landscaper/gardener hired to fix the lawn, you are family from out of town (i.e. not the homeowner), and, in the case that an "enforcement police" confronts you in person, you are deaf.
This made me crack up
 
@Supergrass

How much time are you allowing for most of the PGR to dissipate after the previous app before gerimination?
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
@Supergrass

How much time are you allowing for most of the PGR to dissipate after the previous app before gerimination?
None at all really. Legacy was applied 2 weeks ago and wouldn't be burned up yet at seed down. Not worried at all about it besides it could be slowing the kill current lawn. Saw research that Legacy (might of been cutless) increased tillering on ryegrass so I am probably going to apply a low rate 1-2 weeks after first cut. Obviously will be checking with my research connection if he thinks it is a wise choice. I dont see why not. Inhibit top growth so plant tillers more.
 
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