That's what I did at the start of the season. No issues.

 

I'm waiting to hear from others who are more knowledgeable than me, but filling to the top doesn't sound right. over filling can also cause damage. What does the manual say? Is this a reel mower thing that us rotary guys don't know about?

 

I'm waiting to hear from others who are more knowledgeable than me, but filling to the top doesn't sound right. over filling can also cause damage. What does the manual say? Is this a reel mower thing that us rotary guys don't know about?

i was so confused by this i looked up the manual for a McClane. this is from their 20" reel mower. "fill crankcase to point of overflowing"

 

perfect, that's what I thought I read a while ago.

 

The Briggs I have on mine. The manual says it holds 20 oz's. I vacuum the old oil. Then I add 20 oz. of new. It's full, and not over flowing.

 

Briggs engine without a dip stick is supposed to be filled to the bottom of the threads where the cap goes. Briggs with a dip stick fills to the mark on the stick

 

Changed the oil. It's weird cause there's 2 oil fill points.

I used a fluid extractor syringe, worked pretty well. Filled with Mobile 1 whatever was in my garage leftover to halfway up threads of oil cap. Dipstick also said it was a good level. Haven't changed the oil in a while.

I'm sure I didn't get all the oil out so I will just make it a better habit of changing the oil out more often.

 

Changed the oil. It's weird cause there's 2 oil fill points.

I used a fluid extractor syringe, worked pretty well. Filled with Mobile 1 whatever was in my garage leftover to halfway up threads of oil cap. Dipstick also said it was a good level. Haven't changed the oil in a while.

I'm sure I didn't get all the oil out so I will just make it a better habit of changing the oil out more often.

A lot of engines have two fill/drain spots because they never know the orientation of how they will be put on machines. Sometimes one of them will be blocked.

Running the engine for a few minutes makes the oil flow a little better for removal.

 

Oil change .... what's that? :bd:
.... kidding .... At a minimum check the oil now and again and change/add more than never.
:mrgreen: ("recommended" to CHECK every few uses and CHANGE around 25-30 hrs of use).

I'll preface the following with .... I'll be getting "coal" from Santa for my oil checking/changing habits. :? .... or lack there of....

JUST did mine yesterday after having a personal experience where my "Ol'Junky" (craigslist $40 +$30 in parts 92' 3.5hp model) slowed and went into cardiac arrest with a puff of smoke. Didn't seize, but was snugged up decent. "cpr" ensued haha. I let the mower sit overnight. Ol'Junky hasn't shown any concerning leaks, BUT he does apparently consume some oil. ●●● per the on line manual for my 3.5hp B&S engine: remove drain plug and empty. replace drain plug. remove BOTH "fill" port caps, add oil to the threads, caps back on.●●● .... back to "cpr" ... I then used a large wrench to hand turn the crank shaft and get some lubricant moved around. Pull cord back on, a couple pulls and Ol'Junky fired right up. Wooo lucky... he lives for another mow. Took him out and did a double cut at 1/2". Surprisingly he once again runs as good as his purchase and parts price. I'll run him til he doesn't. Tough ole mower.

 

Sgrabs33, thanks, yeah that makes sense. It had me confused for a second.

PhxHeat, I didn't want to admit but I think I haven't changed my oil for a long time!