@Jonessmj Since your report is for Macro Nutrients that all I will be able to suggest for. I am not sure exactly how much you want to spend and how much time you want to invest, so I will just go on the assumption that you are a normal home owner and not a lawn nut like myself or other folks on here.

Both your P and K are optimal or above (so we want to avoid adding these), so I would go for the standard higher N, no P and a little or no K fertilizer. This is going to be available at your standard big box store brands, but also other more specialty fertilzers that will have micro nutrients as well. Something like a 30-0-4 etc. with a large first number, zero middle number and small (or zero) third number would be a good choice. It is not important what the brand is, however something that mentions slow release or extended feed would probably be a good choice. You could just apply at bag rate once this spring and then later in summer (late Aug) and again in fall (Late Sept or early Oct).

You will be able to easily find this in a granular (which will be easy to apply and measure) and fairly cheap. If you want to have slightly more control over your applications you can go to a liquid (this will be a more specialty product), but it requires more expertise to apply IMO especially over two acres.

 

You can't beat something like this for value, considering your lawn size. Your pricing may be different btw, open an act w them if you don't get similar pricing.



https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=329562&resourceId=20077

EDIT: Throw this into your mix to add some Iron. Look into the FAS thread on this site for details.

 

If using 46-0-0 you might want to consider using a nitrogen release product like N-Fixx or something similar to slow the release of N. Commonly used on golf course fairways/tees, combined with some iron and a PGR and you'll have a great mix.

 

You can't beat something like this for value, considering your lawn size. Your pricing may be different btw, open an act w them if you don't get similar pricing.



https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=329562&resourceId=20077

EDIT: Throw this into your mix to add some Iron. Look into the FAS thread on this site for details.

I would be very careful foliar spraying urea..... This will be all fast release, which would be fine for fall feeding at the correct foliar application rate. Adding the Ferrous above would be better done with Ammonium Sulphate rather than Urea...

 

I would be very careful foliar spraying urea..... This will be all fast release, which would be fine for fall feeding at the correct foliar application rate. Adding the Ferrous above would be better done with Ammonium Sulphate rather than Urea...

Ammonium sulfate is fast release as well. With amounts of N equalized for ammonium sulfate and urea, urea will have about 1/2 the burn potential of ammonium sulfate. This due to the lower salt index and higher amount of N in urea.

Simply put, if you typically don't experience any tip burn with .10 lbs/M of N from ammonium sulfate, you should expect no tip burn from .20 lbs/M of N from urea.

 

To @Stuofsci02 point, maybe clarifying the need for plenty of carrier is necessary here, no matter the N source. I imagine OP's tow behind sprayer has the capacity to spray 1-gal/M ... I can't imagine your 2 acres are irrigated (?).

@Fitz - is there any value with adding a nitrification inhibitor to a foliar spray like the OP is asking for? I understood most/all (?) of the N losses happen once in contact with soil and the subsequent urease reaction. Someone pointed this out earlier and it seemed like a fair point, not sure how valid it is though. Some ready-mixed liquid nitrogen (GCF as an example) seem to have the slow release N.

EDIT: I'm looking at the jug of Lesco 12-0-0 I have on my garage shelf and it's straight Urea (added into a foliar iron mix product) ... and as I'm doing the math, at the recommended 6-9oz rate, it's putting 1/15th to 1/10th of N per 1000. Seems like a safe rate.

 

I would be very careful foliar spraying urea..... This will be all fast release, which would be fine for fall feeding at the correct foliar application rate. Adding the Ferrous above would be better done with Ammonium Sulphate rather than Urea...

Ammonium sulfate is fast release as well. With amounts of N equalized for ammonium sulfate and urea, urea will have about 1/2 the burn potential of ammonium sulfate. This due to the lower salt index and higher amount of N in urea.

Simply put, if you typically don't experience any tip burn with .10 lbs/M of N from ammonium sulfate, you should expect no tip burn from .20 lbs/M of N from urea.

Yes, I should have been clearer. I was not suggesting that AS is slower release, but rather that it might be An option to mix with iron in this case given the OPs pH.

 

To @Stuofsci02 point, maybe clarifying the need for plenty of carrier is necessary here, no matter the N source. I imagine OP's tow behind sprayer has the capacity to spray 1-gal/M ... I can't imagine your 2 acres are irrigated (?).

@Fitz - is there any value with adding a nitrification inhibitor to a foliar spray like the OP is asking for? I understood most/all (?) of the N losses happen once in contact with soil and the subsequent urease reaction. Someone pointed this out earlier and it seemed like a fair point, not sure how valid it is though. Some ready-mixed liquid nitrogen (GCF as an example) seem to have the slow release N.

EDIT: I'm looking at the jug of Lesco 12-0-0 I have on my garage shelf and it's straight Urea (added into a foliar iron mix product) ... and as I'm doing the math, at the recommended 6-9oz rate, it's putting 1/15th to 1/10th of N per 1000. Seems like a safe rate.

I should have clarified- if using straight Urea, I would look at a nitrogen inhibitor to slow the release. If you are using the 12-0-0 on your shelf. Have at it with no inhibitor needed. :thumbup:

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be honest, mixing with my preemergent is making me a little nervous. I feel like the safe route might be a granulated fertilizer. How do you guys feel about the Menards Lawn Food for my specific yard? Recommended rate at which to spread it?

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be honest, mixing with my preemergent is making me a little nervous. I feel like the safe route might be a granulated fertilizer. How do you guys feel about the Menards Lawn Food for my specific yard? Recommended rate at which to spread it?

It is hard to read the label, but this appears to be a poly coated urea fert which would be a fine choice imo for a basic application of N in a slower release format. Bag rate appears to be approximately 1 lb N per thousand. I am a fan of around 0.3 - 0.5 lb N per thousand in the spring, but depends on your grass needs and if you pushed N in the fall. So for me I would apply at anywhere from 1 to 3 lbs of product per 1000 sqft depending on you circumstances.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be honest, mixing with my preemergent is making me a little nervous. I feel like the safe route might be a granulated fertilizer. How do you guys feel about the Menards Lawn Food for my specific yard? Recommended rate at which to spread it?

I hope we didn't scare you off by getting lost in the details... but adding some sprayable N into your tank is not that complicated, especially since you already spray your 2 acres. And I'd argue that it's a better spring wake-up application (quicker response + low N input) than going with granular (kind of hard to spread granular at 1 or 2#/1000). But if you're more confident with a spreader get the UFLEXX 46-0-0 (approx $40) which has a stabilized nitrogen .. but you'll probably be throwing down approx 1# of N (2#/1000) in that app.

You can't beat the value of the straight Urea (or AS)... A 50# bag of sprayable 46-0-0 would cover your entire 2ac (at 0.26#N)... or go half rate if you want to ease into it slowly. The granular you linked is, coincidentally, nothing more than urea sprayed onto a carrier prill that you then spread (with some polymer coating for a slow-release effect).

 

^ +1

You can get urea and apply it in granular form or dissolve it in water and apply it via the spreader. I would not bother with any inhibitor. They are not worth the extra $$ in my opinion.

You will find urea at most coops or farm supply stores. It is around $15-20 for a 50lb bag. It is way cheaper than Menards in a per lb of nitrogen basis.

 

How do you know if your Urea is sprayable? Will it say coated or uncoated on the bag?

I buy from a co op....

 

If it is coated, then it won't dissolve. Coated stuff is more expensive.

 

When spraying urea this time of year, should it be watered in? I'm thinking of spoon feeding my fall Reno.

It's waking up but not much growth. My tttf is growing crazy fast. KBG Reno is creeping

 

If you are spraying urea, do a good carrier rate to leave it foliar.

 

I came late to this thread, but...

1 - 2 acres is a lot to apply liquid fertilizer unless you are talking about foliar sprays for color. If you want to replace traditional granular ferts, then you will spend more money and a lot more time.

2 - Isn't it a bit early to be applying fertilizer - especially in South Dakota?

3 - Urea is urea, sulfur coated urea is sulfur coated urea. Look at the ingredients and buy whatever is cheapest, brand loyalty guides you to, or random chance dictates. If the ingredients are the same, the product will perform the same with minimal variation between brands.

If you are looking for a simple solution, apply pre-emergent (Dimension or Prodiamine) now in liquid or granular form with no nitrogen. If you can't find this locally, you can order it online (domyown.com has several options). Sometime around mid to late May apply a high Nitrogen fertilizer at 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft (The Menard's Premium you posted a picture of will work fine).

 

@g-man thanks I'll do that.

@bernstem good to see you over here, does that "too early for Nitrogen " also go for a fall Reno? Mine seems to be struggling a little.

 

On a fresh fall renovation, you can make an argument for a low dose of Nitrogen earlier (say 0.25 - 0.5 lb/k) than traditionally, but I would still wait for the turf to wake up on it's own. You want it to grow roots. A lot depends on how you managed it in the fall. If it went to sleep Nitrogen starved, a small dose earlier makes more sense. If you spoon fed it Nitrogen after germination and then winterized it well, I would wait. Like everything, you need to listen to the grass. Either way, you are unlikely to cause any long term harm.

 

On a fresh fall renovation, you can make an argument for a low dose of Nitrogen earlier (say 0.25 - 0.5 lb/k) than traditionally, but I would still wait for the turf to wake up on it's own. You want it to grow roots. A lot depends on how you managed it in the fall. If it went to sleep Nitrogen starved, a small dose earlier makes more sense. If you spoon fed it Nitrogen after germination and then winterized it well, I would wait. Like everything, you need to listen to the grass. Either way, you are unlikely to cause any long term harm.

Ok yeah nice to get some good root growth. I did spoon feed last fall but held off on winterizer. I read something last year about winterizer not really being necessary since I feed during fall.

I may hold off little longer and let it wake up some. Big difference between TTTF and KBG as far as early spring top growth

 

Definitely a difference. KBG in my area is 2 weeks or so behind TTTF. It makes me quite sad to see all the early waking Fescue lawns. If it matters, my lawn is well established and has just started growing, but barely enough for weekly mowing at 2.5 inches. Forsythia here just bloomed last week, and I would expect I am at least 2 weeks or more ahead of you.