I'd replace the reel and bedknife and then do a grind on each. Whenever we put a new reel and/or bedknife on our mowers at work (I'm a golf course equipment tech) we do a grind on them. Check with local golf courses, some of them will do the grind for you. We do them for people at our course occasionally

 

The above is probably the best case. I've replaced my reel and bedknife with toro parts.. backlapped and adjusted them well enough I cut paper at any point. Not even folded paper, but a single strand of newspaper even.

Put them together and backlap a bit to mate the surfaces and see where it gets ya before you load it up and hunt down someone to take it apart and grind a new reel.

 

The above is probably the best case. I've replaced my reel and bedknife with toro parts.. backlapped and adjusted them well enough I cut paper at any point. Not even folded paper, but a single strand of newspaper even.

Put them together and backlap a bit to mate the surfaces and see where it gets ya before you load it up and hunt down someone to take it apart and grind a new reel.

+1

I did the same with my Baroness, replace the reel and bedknife and a quick backlapping and it was as sharp as a razor. I don't see why you would need to grind a brand new reel and bedknife for but I have never worked on JD or Toro before either. Oh, I did replace the reel and bedknife on a Jacobsen and did the exact same thing without any issues.

 

Thanks all! I'll at very least replace the parts and see it works before taking it to the place I've used before.

Michael

 

I replaced my reel and bedknife 3 weeks ago. I backlapped with 120 grit about 15 minutes and finished it off with 180 grit, it turned out razor sharp.

 

I replaced my reel and bedknife 3 weeks ago. I backlapped with 120 grit about 15 minutes and finished it off with 180 grit, it turned out razor sharp.

On your JD? Do you mind me asking were you got the parts from? JD or aftermarket?

Thanks,
Michael

 

On my JD 220e I installed a new bed knife and 7 blade reel. Adjusted clearance and backlapped for all of 5 minutes with 120 and then 220. It cut paper across the entire reel with no problems on all blades. I don't think you should need a grind on a new reel and bedknife.

 

I think the consensus for most of us DIY-ers is that a good backlap after a new reel and bedknife will do just fine.

I'll add that I just got my 1600 bedknife professionally replaced with a fresh grind and it's smoother than any backlap I've ever put on either of my reel mowers. It just hits different..

If you can get a fresh grind put on it without breaking the bank - do it!

 

Thanks everyone. A 9 blade reel and new bedknife along with misc. parts ordered from R&R. Gonna try it myself 1st and see how it goes. It's just too much of a cost savings to try and do it myself vs the place I've had it serviced before. I have a 11 blade now, but I've read that a 9 blade for a C will also fit a SL. Will test that and update how it goes. :thumbup:

 

I think the consensus for most of us DIY-ers is that a good backlap after a new reel and bedknife will do just fine.

I'll add that I just got my 1600 bedknife professionally replaced with a fresh grind and it's smoother than any backlap I've ever put on either of my reel mowers. It just hits different..

If you can get a fresh grind put on it without breaking the bank - do it!

A fresh grind on the reel? Or the bedknife? Or both?

Thanks,
Michael

 

I think the consensus for most of us DIY-ers is that a good backlap after a new reel and bedknife will do just fine.

I'll add that I just got my 1600 bedknife professionally replaced with a fresh grind and it's smoother than any backlap I've ever put on either of my reel mowers. It just hits different..

If you can get a fresh grind put on it without breaking the bank - do it!

A fresh grind on the reel? Or the bedknife? Or both?

Thanks,
Michael

Great question. I'm going to assume they ground both.

 

I think the consensus for most of us DIY-ers is that a good backlap after a new reel and bedknife will do just fine.

I'll add that I just got my 1600 bedknife professionally replaced with a fresh grind and it's smoother than any backlap I've ever put on either of my reel mowers. It just hits different..

If you can get a fresh grind put on it without breaking the bank - do it!

A fresh grind on the reel? Or the bedknife? Or both?

Thanks,
Michael

We grind both

 

I think the consensus for most of us DIY-ers is that a good backlap after a new reel and bedknife will do just fine.

I'll add that I just got my 1600 bedknife professionally replaced with a fresh grind and it's smoother than any backlap I've ever put on either of my reel mowers. It just hits different..

If you can get a fresh grind put on it without breaking the bank - do it!

A fresh grind on the reel? Or the bedknife? Or both?

Thanks,
Michael

We grind both

Is that done with the reel and bedknife on the machines?

Thanks,
Michael

 

R&R states on their features and specs for the reel you just bought that it comes with a relief grind already, the bedknife comes with "front edge grind for extended life" you just need to mate them with a good backlapping. Why waste money on a grind that is already done?

 

A fresh grind on the reel? Or the bedknife? Or both?

Thanks,
Michael

We grind both

Is that done with the reel and bedknife on the machines?

Thanks,
Michael

We grind the reel while it's mounted to the mower, we grind the bedknife while it's off the mower, but mounted to the bedbar

 

R&R states on their features and specs for the reel you just bought that it comes with a relief grind already, the bedknife comes with "front edge grind for extended life" you just need to mate them with a good backlapping. Why waste money on a grind that is already done?

Yes sir, that's what I thought to, but wasn't sure since I'm only about 6 months into the greensmower game. :thumbup:

 

R&R states on their features and specs for the reel you just bought that it comes with a relief grind already, the bedknife comes with "front edge grind for extended life" you just need to mate them with a good backlapping. Why waste money on a grind that is already done?

Do you know what a relief grind is? A relief grind is totally different than when we do a spin grind on a reel. When we grind a bedknife , we grind the front face at one angle, and then we grind the top face at another angle.

Over the past month I have had to grind over 100 reel and replace countless bedknives (and yes I put a fresh grind on every new one).

 

I had the head Tech for Baroness tell me the following, "When replacing the bed knives, you will not need to grind the bedknife if you use Baroness original bed knives. The bed bar and the contact surface on the bed knives are CNC machined, and will ensure an accuracy that regular grinders cannot match."

Likewise, the following blogpost from MTI in 2013 says the opposite...

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

http://mtiservice.blogspot.com/2013/

It's all in the angle
Thought I would make a quick post about bedknife angles now that people are starting to grind their reels.

The grind on a bedknife is very important, and every bedknife should be ground. (including new ones) This ensures a parallel surface for the reel. Another thing that often gets overlooked is that bedknives should be tightened with a torque wrench to ensure they do not twist when tightened down. I have seen it where people tighten them too much and then have to take off a lot on each of the ends of the knife to get it straight. People quickly blame the bedbar when it is often the knife bolts.

• Make sure the bedbar threads are clean.
• Use new Toro screws. Apply anti-seize lubricant to the screw threads before installing.
• Tighten the screws working from the center toward each end of the bedbar. DO NOT use and impact wrench.

Fairway/utility mowers:
250 - 300 in.lb.

Greensmowers:
200 - 250 in.lb

Make sure you are grinding your knives to the proper angle. If the angle is off I have seen very sharp reels that won't cut paper even when tightened down. Use the guide below to make sure you have the correct angle. I have it taped to the wall next to our grinders.

Seems like everyone has an differing opinion...Just like a spin only vs spin/relief grind. :lol:

 

R&R states on their features and specs for the reel you just bought that it comes with a relief grind already, the bedknife comes with "front edge grind for extended life" you just need to mate them with a good backlapping. Why waste money on a grind that is already done?

Yes sir, that's what I thought to, but wasn't sure since I'm only about 6 months into the greensmower game. :thumbup:

Seems there are differing opinions here, if you have any doubts just call R&R and ask. Have fun replacing your reel, it's a great way to get to know the mechanical operation of your greensmower :thumbup:

 

R&R states on their features and specs for the reel you just bought that it comes with a relief grind already, the bedknife comes with "front edge grind for extended life" you just need to mate them with a good backlapping. Why waste money on a grind that is already done?

Do you know what a relief grind is? A relief grind is totally different than when we do a spin grind on a reel. When we grind a bedknife , we grind the front face at one angle, and then we grind the top face at another angle.

Over the past month I have had to grind over 100 reel and replace countless bedknives (and yes I put a fresh grind on every new one).

I'm no expert but, I do understand the difference between a relief grind vs. a spin grind. What's the advantage to a home owner to have a spin grind done when they have to load their mower and pay some one to regrind it every time the reel becomes a little dull vs. having a relief grind that they can backlapp to a precision cut multiple times at home possibly for a few seasons? Am I wrong here? :roll:

 

Hi all,

I got the reel and bedknife out yesterday and that was way too easy to pay someone ever again. I will put the new parts in and torque to spec the new bedknife screws. At worst, I have to take it in to the get the parts machined together.

Thanks all!

 

A new reel and bad knife are machined to close tolerances. This means that you don't have to do a grind when replacing, but do understand that everything has some tolerances. When mounted, the reel to bearings, bearing to housing, housing to frame, etc will all add up. So doing a lite machine grind is a good practice mainly to ensure it is all squared. Must do, no, but a nice to have.

 

A new reel and bad knife are machined to close tolerances. This means that you don't have to do a grind when replacing, but do understand that everything has some tolerances. When mounted, the reel to bearings, bearing to housing, housing to frame, etc will all add up. So doing a lite machine grind is a good practice mainly to ensure it is all squared. Must do, no, but a nice to have.

Makes perfect sense, thanks! If I'm gonna hit water meter metal covers, or find a 3" screw from a winter shed project (yes that happened to my 1600 during scalping) every couple of months, likely a moot point in getting the parts machined perfectly lol

 

Hello all,

I received the 9 blade RR yesterday, but found that the stock 11 blade AMT2886 (that fits in the SL and C according to the JD parts diagram) aren't the same. Was really bummed to find this out. I don't understand how the 1 blade AMT2886 shows to fit in a SL and C, but the 9 blade won't in the SL...... unless there is a different housing seal and/or housing itself.



RR 9 blade reel


JD 11 blade reel


Reel housing


Anyways, I ordered the RR 11 blade version and hope that works. RR doesn't show any parts for the SL, but the cross reference # is the same as the JD blade I have now.



Any thoughts are welcome.
Michael

 

Hello all,

I received the 9 blade RR yesterday, but found that the stock 11 blade AMT2886 (that fits in the SL and C according to the JD parts diagram) aren't the same. Was really bummed to find this out. I don't understand how the 1 blade AMT2886 shows to fit in a SL and C, but the 9 blade won't in the SL...... unless there is a different housing seal and/or housing itself.



RR 9 blade reel


JD 11 blade reel


Reel housing


Anyways, I ordered the RR 11 blade version and hope that works. RR doesn't show any parts for the SL, but the cross reference # is the same as the JD blade I have now.



Any thoughts are welcome.
Michael

What was the part number for the 9-blade at R&R?
Are you saying the 9 blade will not fit? I have a 220a and looking to replace to a 9 blade from my current 11 blade.