Out of curiosity, where did you get your soil test from? And, when was the last fertilizer app prior to the test?

Based on your numbers, think I’d approach it with a starter fertilizer ratio after your last frost for the year & also after you have a some bermuda green-up. Then, I’d just go with 46-0-0 the rest of the season. It’s cheap & effective. I’d stay away AMS & Potassium based on your report.

As for a pre-emergent, I’d get it down by Feb. 1st. I don’t like playing the soil temp game & just opt to rotate a different pre-E every 3ish months throughout the year. This helps eliminate any environmental factors that may come into play & helps to keep an active pre-E barrier the soil at all times.

 

As for a pre-emergent, I’d get it down by Feb. 1st. I don’t like playing the soil temp game & just opt to rotate a different pre-E every 3ish months throughout the year. This helps eliminate any environmental factors that may come into play & helps to keep an active pre-E barrier the soil at all times.

I do the exact same method with pre-emergent with about a 30 day overlap of when the last prem expires. One year I alternated dithiopyr and prodiamine over applications of Trifluralin and Isoxaben with no detrimental effects I'm aware of. I don't understand how overlapping prem isn't common practice as many people miss the app when forgetting to track soil temps and then have to deal with the weeds all season. Is it due to cost of additional apps? My lawn is small, so the cost is nil. Maybe someone can chime in.

 

Hey, thanks a lot, I really appreciate this. I used MySoil testing kit. Idk how great the sample was honestly. I did best I could, but I have so much clay under my grass, a lot of what I gave them was clay. Again, not sure implications of that on soil test or relative nutrient ranges.

 

Based on someone much smarter than I on the subject, I wouldn't trust any results from MySoil as their resin bead exchange procedure has not been correlated for turf. Check out this video if you like. There are reputable labs with just as simple home testing procedures and prolly cheaper or equal cost.

Based on your low P, you might be the only person I would recommend to use milorganite when spring warmth comes. A starter fertilizer as recommended above would have the extra P you need as well. That N number fluctuates too rapidly to be useful. Shooting for 4-5 lbs N per year would be a best management practice.

 

Why wouldn't you recommend milorganite? I didn't know milorganite can be a bad thing

 

Milorganite is relatively high in Phosphorus and most lawns have plenty or too much. I would recommend @PuredShank get another soil test done from the local extension office to confirm his levels.

 

The only number I would really care if it was accurate in that soil test is pH, if it's that low for Bermuda you're likely to have issues.

Agree with @Redtwin on a retest from a local extension at the proper sampling depth to ensure your readings aren't wrong and if they come up similar I'd lime and balanced fert. Mainly lime though.