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Discussion starter · #21 ·
There are so many different types of crabgrasses. At this point I'm not sure if it's Dallisgrass, Barnyard Grass (I've seen some of the red/purple), or some other type of mature crabgrass.
 
Dallisgrass, paint on glyphosate, when I moved to my home I had tons of it, couldn’t get rid of it until I hit it hard with glyphosate.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Dallisgrass, paint on glyphosate, when I moved to my home I had tons of it, couldn’t get rid of it until I hit it hard with glyphosate.
What is the best technique to use to paint it on? Any recommended YouTube videos? Should I just use standard Roundup that I can buy at the store?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I'm honestly not sure if this really is dallisgrass - I'm now learning there are so many different types of grasses that loosely resemble crabgrass, such as dallisgrass, quackgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, etc, just to name a few. I really don't know if this is all one type of grass, or if there are different types. What I do know is that this is getting really bad. Please help me ID which type(s) I have and how to get rid of them. Photos below and in subsequent posts:
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Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
Additional "crabgrass" photos:

Really not sure what type(s) of grassy weed(s) this is. Is this mature crabgrass or something else? How do I control/suppress/ultimately kill it?

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Discussion starter · #28 ·
FWIW there is very similar looking grass (I don't know if it's exactly the same) that I applied 2-4-D / Quin (specifically Ortho WeedClear for Northern Lawns) in the front yard. That portion the sprinkler zone that has broken that is not getting watered regularly is showing signs of stress, but the back, as you can see, is laughing off that application.

FWIW, I live in a weird area. I cannot get "economically attractive" access to Celsius or Quinclorac to put in a sprayer. Especially Celsius. I can get Quinclorac, but at a much smaller volume, which has a much higher prices/ounce, which stinks, but it doesn't seem any worse than the Ortho sprayer stuff. So that may be an option. Unless there's a better place to purchase. But it sucks less than the Celsius ripoff that will only ship small packets to me. I do have access to Certainty, Sedgehammer (but that doesn't treat this), Revolver (which is $$$), and surprisingly do have access to other stuff if all else fails.
 
Check the Marketplace for a split. I have found that the best way to ID some of these similar looking grasses it to let it go to seed and seeing what the seed head looks like. It's a slippery slope letting them go to seed but it may be your only option. I'd want to know just to determine if they are annual or perennial. Pre-em can help control the annuals but if it's perennial you will have to dig or hit it with the nasty stuff.
 
FWIW there is very similar looking grass (I don't know if it's exactly the same) that I applied 2-4-D / Quin (specifically Ortho WeedClear for Northern Lawns) in the front yard. That portion the sprinkler zone that has broken that is not getting watered regularly is showing signs of stress, but the back, as you can see, is laughing off that application.

FWIW, I live in a weird area. I cannot get "economically attractive" access to Celsius or Quinclorac to put in a sprayer. Especially Celsius. I can get Quinclorac, but at a much smaller volume, which has a much higher prices/ounce, which stinks, but it doesn't seem any worse than the Ortho sprayer stuff. So that may be an option. Unless there's a better place to purchase. But it sucks less than the Celsius ripoff that will only ship small packets to me. I do have access to Certainty, Sedgehammer (but that doesn't treat this), Revolver (which is $$$), and surprisingly do have access to other stuff if all else fails.
1. Calling Texas a weird area is fighting words for us TEXANS!!:)
2. Looks like: Large Crabgrass - AggieTurf

Dallis Grass grows in clumps.

3. How large of area are you working with. It makes alot of difference if its 5K or 25K from a cost standpoint.
4. If you want Celsius: Bayer Celsius WG Postemergent Herbicide - 10 Oz.
5. MSMA will smoke it and very cheap including DallisGrass. 2 TBSP to the gallon. MSMA 6 Plus Herbicide
 
1. Calling Texas a weird area is fighting words for us TEXANS!!:)
2. Looks like: Large Crabgrass - AggieTurf

Dallis Grass grows in clumps.

3. How large of area are you working with. It makes alot of difference if its 5K or 25K from a cost standpoint.
4. If you want Celsius: Bayer Celsius WG Postemergent Herbicide - 10 Oz.
5. MSMA will smoke it and very cheap including DallisGrass. 2 TBSP to the gallon. MSMA 6 Plus Herbicide
This is the best answer. It is large crabgrass for sure.

MSMA is good to have in the shed for sandburs as well. If you want to go it cheap, paint on glyphosate.
 
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
Thanks all. If I were to go with the "good juice", what is the mixing rate per gallon to suppress Dallisgrass, Johnson grass equivalents, Crabgrass, and St. Augustine grass in Celebration bermuda? I've read 1 oz. per gallon (of ~48% concentration product premixed with surfactant) for golf course equivalent applications?

Does that sound right? How long does it take to work? How long does it have to stay dry before rain/thunderstorms?

I've read that ideal application is between 80 - 90F, but not to apply below 70F or above 95F. If it's above 90 but less than 95 degrees, do you lower the concentration to prevent damage to bermuda?

What is the hottest temperature it can be stored at? Is a shaded garage OK (typically 90-100deg over summer during peak day heat, cooler at night) or does it need climate control?
 
If you have Dallasgrass, run. Lol. It’s so hard to get rid of. I literally paint with a foam paint brush roundup/glyphosate on it and it does nuke it, but I always get a few more that sprout up next season.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
If you have Dallasgrass, run. Lol. It’s so hard to get rid of. I literally paint with a foam paint brush roundup/glyphosate on it and it does nuke it, but I always get a few more that sprout up next season.
Does Pre-Emergent help prevent sprouting up next season? In any case, what's best pre-emergent to use on Celebration bermuda, that still needs to spread and root more? When should I start using the pre-E?
 
It's never too late to put out a pre-emergent but most will put it out in the fall for winter weeds and early spring for summer weeds. Prodiamine is relatively cheap and works on crabgrass. Dithiopyr is labeled to prevent dallisgrass from sprouting from seed but dallisgrass is a perennial so it won't help with what is already there.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Is Seedworld USA a good place to get herbicides? Do they ship Celsius to Texas? For some reason, a very popular online site does not ship Celsius to Texas.

We are going to be in the upper 90s and lower 100s, so too hot for MSMA - I think that can use up to 90 and diluted concentrations up to 95. We'll be flirting at or above 100 for the next two weeks, so Celsius or Certainty seem to be all that can be used.

I really want to feed the bermuda with fertilizer, but don't want to feed until weeds are under control.
 
Is Seedworld USA a good place to get herbicides? Do they ship Celsius to Texas? For some reason, a very popular online site does not ship Celsius to Texas.

We are going to be in the upper 90s and lower 100s, so too hot for MSMA - I think that can use up to 90 and diluted concentrations up to 95. We'll be flirting at or above 100 for the next two weeks, so Celsius or Certainty seem to be all that can be used.

I really want to feed the bermuda with fertilizer, but don't want to feed until weeds are under control.
1. I have ordered from Bayer Celsius WG Postemergent Herbicide - 10 Oz. which may be the same company. I have ordered many times and used code 777 for a 5% discount. They ship me everything to Texas. Quick shipping.

2. Never to Hot for MSMA. Not as effective less than 80 degrees. Actually the hotter the better. If you are wound up about the label saying 80-90 it is always 80-90 before it gets to 100.

3. Celsius and Certainty can be used at ANY temp.

4. Do not wait to fertilize. That is not very smart. You should be feeding your lawn .5 to 1 lb of N every month from May-Sept. You are wasting prime growing season with no fertilizer.


Follow this lawn calendar:
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
1. I have ordered from Bayer Celsius WG Postemergent Herbicide - 10 Oz. which may be the same company. I have ordered many times and used code 777 for a 5% discount. They ship me everything to Texas. Quick shipping.

2. Never to Hot for MSMA. Not as effective less than 80 degrees. Actually the hotter the better. If you are wound up about the label saying 80-90 it is always 80-90 before it gets to 100.

3. Celsius and Certainty can be used at ANY temp.

4. Do not wait to fertilize. That is not very smart. You should be feeding your lawn .5 to 1 lb of N every month from May-Sept. You are wasting prime growing season with no fertilizer.


Follow this lawn calendar:
Thank you very much. Reason why I'm not fertilizing is that I don't want to feed the weeds and make them worse / more out of control. Is that not good thinking? Bermuda is some 419 and some Celebration.

FWIW, the Celebration seems to not be phased by MSMA at all. The 419 does yellow a little if the application was a little heavy. Celebration also seems to be much more drought resistant than the 419, just tougher and more durable overall.
 
Thank you very much. Reason why I'm not fertilizing is that I don't want to feed the weeds and make them worse / more out of control. Is that not good thinking? Bermuda is some 419 and some Celebration.

FWIW, the Celebration seems to not be phased by MSMA at all. The 419 does yellow a little if the application was a little heavy. Celebration also seems to be much more drought resistant than the 419, just tougher and more durable overall.
Yes. That is NOT good thinking. I would fertilize on a regular basis because every time you kill out the weeds you need that grass to be spreading back over the brown spot. I would be spot spraying for weeds weekly until you get them under control. Blanket spray once if you have a large yard. Sometimes you have to go backwards by browning out your lawn in order to go forward and have it look better long term. For instance, I scalped three weeks ago to get rid of dead material and seed heads before our vacation. Came back to a beautiful lawn and raised my cut.


I have found 1-2 tablespoons for MSMA per gallon is good. I like to spray it at about noon when the sun is hot.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Yes. That is NOT good thinking. I would fertilize on a regular basis because every time you kill out the weeds you need that grass to be spreading back over the brown spot. I would be spot spraying for weeds weekly until you get them under control. Blanket spray once if you have a large yard. Sometimes you have to go backwards by browning out your lawn in order to go forward and have it look better long term. For instance, I scalped three weeks ago to get rid of dead material and seed heads before our vacation. Came back to a beautiful lawn and raised my cut.


I have found 1-2 tablespoons for MSMA per gallon is good. I like to spray it at about noon when the sun is hot.
Thanks again. What fertilizer do you use on bermuda in the summer? Is that the high N slow release, like the >24-0-0 or do you use some P and K?

For MSMA, thought to wait 10-14 days to see how much it controls before applying a follow-up in tough spots. So you apply that to 100 degrees in Texas, and it does not damage your bermuda, or is that Celsius/Certainty applications in those temperatures?
 
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