Lawn Care Forum banner

Grub control?

8.2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Redeye  
#1 ·
I think this is one of the very best sources of information on lawn care, so that's why I'm choosing to post here.
(I've already googled and read up a bit, but trust you guys more! :thumbup: )

Could you guys educate me on grubs? IE: How to spot grub problems, how and when to address it, etc?

I ask because I'm frustrated that I continue to have bare spots, especially in my front lawn where we put down sod about 3 years ago and I can't seem to get grass growing in certain areas, and upon closer inspection, the grass clumps are easy to pull up, which has me suspecting a grub control issue.

Many many thanks!!

Disclaimer: I've never used a grub preventer, but know for a fact I have grubs in my flower beds, which is close to the grass. Also, I prefer less chemicals than more, so limiting chemicals is a priority for me. Thanks again
 
#2 ·
@rtdad Pull the outer part of the damaged turf. If it lifts off, look at the edge where the healthy grass starts. You will see little white 'balls' lol. Google pictures so you can be sure. Right now grubs a feeding solidly on roots and are big enough to notice. If you have very few, that is not considered an infestation. Healthy turf can handle that and grubs don't make babies :lol:
Grub cycle is very simple and in most cases is annual. Beetles start laying eggs early summer (from this the name June beetle). Eggs turn to grub that starts feeding on grass roots. They stay close to the surface and do the worst damage thru mid-late summer (for northern states). When weather starts cooling down, they go deeper in the soil and 'hide' during the winter. Once spring comes they will have another snack (not that heavy otherwise can't take-off)) and turn to beetles. And the cycle repeats.

Grub control has 2 faces: preventive and curative. The first is applied when (most of time) grubs are young (early summer). Two products come in mind: Merit with active ingredient imidacloprid (old school, toxic to pollinators but very effective) and acelepryn (the brand name from Syngenta, newer, safer, very expensive).
On the curative side I only know Sevin (active ingredient Carbaryl, very toxic even to humans). Sevin is sold today with a new active ingredient due to the mentioned.
You also have 2 in 1 as Scott's GrubEx.
Hope that gives you a rough idea,
B