[MikeConroy]

So far my applications have been :

Azoxy 28 day (c),
Azoxy 28 day (p),
Propiconazole 28* day (p),
Azoxy + Chlorothalonil 14 day (c) ,
T-Methyl + Chlorothalonil 14 day (p)
- - this weekend <back to Azoxy + Chlorothalonil? >

C= curative P = preventive

The curative residual interval for azoxy is 14 days, not 28 days. Highest rate for the shortest period. Generally similar verbiage on almost all fungicides.

Azoxy + Chloro, although not labeled for residential turf is a winner. You can get more residual days from the azoxy in the mix, but be aware the chlorothalonil contact residual will expire at 14 days, at best. The more water or rain, the faster the contact departs the leaf blades. I found 1.5-2 gallons per M gives better coverage of a contact fungicide. You want the contact to cover every part and all sides of the exposed turf, not just misted on the top like a foliar iron app.

Once again, I recommend Xzemplar (fluxapyroxad) Group 7 for rotational purposes. Prevents/Cures a multitude of diseases with small rates (max 0.26 floz per M). Controls both Dollar Spot and Brown Patch.

Tip: Off brand fungicides are just as good as the name brands for wayyyyyy less money. Tank mixing cheap propiconazole with cheap azoxy makes a great copycat of expensive Headway. The amounts of ai will be different, but you can adjust the amount of the cheap stuff to match the ai of the expensive.

 

[PlanetBeen]

OK. I will probably go with azoxystrobin preventive for this application. I'll leave out anything else for now in the renovation. But if I start to see any hint of new brown out there I'm going back on the offense.

We're about to get a week + of cooler temperatures and hopefully there can be a little recovery and a break from the ridiculous hot humid fungus weather we've been having. I'm hoping to be beyond this threat soon.

I don't have any kids or pets and technically no direct neighbors either. If my neighbors are out rolling around in my lawn we're going to have bigger problems! 😂 However, I don't want to have to wear a biohazard suit every time I'm weeding either, so I'd rather not have crazy stuff on the lawn all the time anyway.

I feel like I've just learned this year what is going on. Some of the large patches that died last year that I was blaming on heat stress and mole damage (and even herbicide damage) were probably caused by fungus. I'm starting to be able to see the difference much better and I hope to prevent any large loss this year. There are a few areas that are bigger than I'd like, but as long as they don't spread any more everything should be ok.

edit to add

Thank you @MikeConroy for the interval reminder. I feel like I knew that (14days @ higher rate for curative) and just completely forgot it.

 

[MacLawn]

OK. I will probably go with azoxystrobin preventive for this application. I'll leave out anything else for now in the renovation. But if I start to see any hint of new brown out there I'm going back on the offense.

We're about to get a week + of cooler temperatures and hopefully there can be a little recovery and a break from the ridiculous hot humid fungus weather we've been having. I'm hoping to be beyond this threat soon.

I don't have any kids or pets and technically no direct neighbors either. If my neighbors are out rolling around in my lawn we're going to have bigger problems! 😂 However, I don't want to have to wear a biohazard suit every time I'm weeding either, so I'd rather not have crazy stuff on the lawn all the time anyway.

I feel like I've just learned this year what is going on. Some of the large patches that died last year that I was blaming on heat stress and mole damage (and even herbicide damage) were probably caused by fungus. I'm starting to be able to see the difference much better and I hope to prevent any large loss this year. There are a few areas that are bigger than I'd like, but as long as they don't spread any more everything should be ok.

edit to add

Thank you @MikeConroy for the interval reminder. I feel like I knew that (14days @ higher rate for curative) and just completely forgot it.

The more you observe the more you learn.
Big thing I learned
The nicer your lawn the bigger the problems when they show face.
Been struggling here myself and with the watering restrictions getting more restrictive each year I might have to just let the lawn go dormant , which seems to coincide with the timing of most of my fungus issues.

 

[MachoManMooch]

I had a major break out 2021-2023
Lost most of my lawn those years. 2024 was better after getting on top of the signs.
2025 has been much much better
Preventive apps
Last was Propi 7 days ago . Im seeing more lesions and yellowing and suspect brown patch .
This is the first time its starting to look bad.
Should I have Propi and Clearys 3336
Should I apply both or one or the other next

I am running into my own fungus outbreak (still have to rule out insect/grubs) and I did not apply preventatively. I have clearys 3336 in my rotation and its certainly not as effective as my headway G applications. Granted my use of granular fungicides probably means I need to be ahead of the game and not behind. Anyway, depending on how many successive apps of propi you can use, I might consider applying both and then you can always come back with azoxy on your next application? Or if you think its brown patch, then azoxy might be more effective?

I am planning to get some fungicide (to be determined) that I can apply in a foliar application to directly target the troubled spots along with my next granular application.

 

[MacLawn]

Fungicides are used to correct and prevent fungus from damaging turf. There are 2 common rates. Curative: cures a current fungus problem. Preventive: prevents a fungus problem. It is best to only use a fungicide with 1 Mode of Action (MOA)/FRAC Group no more than two consecutive applications. Resistance to fungicide is a real problem and we don't want to add to this problem. Therefore, it is best to combine 2 or more fungicides on a rotation or even in 1 application. This list is for fungicides approved for residential use. There are many other very effective fungicides but they are not labelled for residential use. Always wear protective clothing per the product label.

• The italics are products which may be available in local home improvement stores.
• Granular products can be spread using a fertilizer spreader.
• Fungus in red generally has excellent control, green has good control, blue is ok control, and black is unknown regarding efficacy.
• The $ sign is for the cost of one bottle of the product and the # sign is for the cost of application per 1000 sq ft based on a 1-5 scale, 1 being the lowest. Cost is based on preventive rate of BP or the most common fungus it treats and the smallest quantity available. Larger quantities are usually much lower #.

Anthracnose (An), Bentgrass Dead Spot (BDS), Bermudagrass Decline (BD), Brown Patch (BP) Brown Ring (BR), Copper Spot (CS), Crown Rot (CR), Dollar Spot (DS), Downy Mildew (DM), Fairy Ring (FR), Fusarium Blight (FB), Fusarium Patch (FP), Gray Leaf Spot (GLS), Gray Snow Mold (GSM), Leaf Blight (LB), Leaf Smuts (LSm), Leaf Spot (LS), Large Patch (LP), Melting Out (MO), Mini Ring (MR), Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS), Pink Patch (PP), Pink Snow Mold (PSM), Powdery Mildew (PM), Pythium Blight (PB), Pythium Damping Off (PDO), Pythium Root Dysfunction (PRD), Pythium Root Rot (PRR), Red Leaf Spot (RLS), Red Thread (RT), Rust (Ru), Septoria Leaf Spot (SLS), Snow Mold (SM), Southern Blight (SB), Spring Dead Spot (SDS), Stripe Smut (SS), Summer Patch (SP), Take-all-patch (TAP), Typhula Blight (TB), Waitea Patch (WP), Yellow Patch (YP), Yellow Tuft (YT), Zonate Leaf Spot (ZLS), Zoysia Patch (ZP)

FRAC Group 1

Thiophanate Methyl - 1
An, BD, BDS, BP, CR, CS, DS, FB, FP, GLS, LB, LS, NRS, PSM, RT, Ru, SDS, SM, SP, SS, TAP, YP, ZP

• Bonide Infuse Lawn & Landscape (granular) $/####
• Cleary 3336 DG Lite (granular) $$/###
• Cleary 3336 EG $$/#
• Cleary 3336 F $/###
• OHP 6672 4.5F $$$$/#
• OHP 6672 50 WP $/##
• Quali-Pro TM 4.5 $$$$/#
• Quali-Pro TM 85 WDG $$$/##
• Scotts Lawn Fungus Control (granular) Discontinued? $/###
• Transom 4.5F $$$$/#
• Transom 50 WSB $/##

FRAC Group 3

Myclobutanil - 3
An, BP, CR, CS, DS, FB, FP, GLS, LP, LSm, MO, NRS, PSM, PM, RT, Ru, SDS, SLS, SP, ZLS

• Eagle 0.62G (granular) $$/#####
• Eagle 20 EW $/###
• Ferti-Lome F-Stop (granular & liquid) $/######
• Ferti-Lome F-Stop RTS $/######
• Monterey Fungi-Max $/#######
• Prime Source Myclo 20EW $/###
• Quali-pro Myclobutanil 20EW T&O $$$/#
• Spectracide Immunox Multi-Purpose Fungicide for Gardens $/######

Propiconazole - 3
An, BP, CS, CR, DS, FB, FP, GLS, GSM, LP, LS, LSm, MO, NRS, PM, PP, PSM, RT, Ru, SDS, SLS, SP, SS, TAP, YP, ZLS, ZP

• Banner Maxx II $$$$$/##
• Bayer Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns (granular & liquid) $/####
• Black Flag Extreme Insect Plus Fungus (granular & liquid) $/####
• Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control $/#######
• Dorado Fungicide $$$$/#
• Martin's Systemic Fungicide RTS $/######
• Prime Source PPZ 41.8 $$$/#
• Prime Source Propiconazole 14.3 Select $/##
• Prophesy 0.72G (granular) $$/#####
• Quali-pro Propiconazole $/#
• Spectracide Immunox Fungus Plus Insect $/######

Triadimefon - 3
An, BD, BP, CS, DS, FB, FP, FR, GLS, GSM, LP, LS, MO, PM, PSM, RT, Ru, SB, SP, SS, TAP, TB, ZP

• Bayleton 50 $$$$/####
• Bayleton FLO $$$$$$/##

Triticonazole - 3
An, BP, BR, DS, FP, PSM, GSM, LP, LS, NRS, PP, PSM, RLS, RT, Ru, SP, TAP, TB, YP, ZP

• Trinity $$$/#

FRAC Group 4

Mefenoxam (Metalaxyl) - 4
DM, PB, PRR, YT

• Prime Source Regulate Select $$$$$/#
• Quali-pro Mefenoxam 2 AQ $$$/##
• Subdue GR (granular) $$$/####
• Subdue MAXX $$$$/##

FRAC Group 7

Fluopyram - 7
DS *controls nematodes

• Fluopyram 500 SC by Bayer ?/?

Flutolanil - 7
BP, FR, GSM, LP, MR, PP, RT, SB, YP

• ProStar 70 WG $$$$/#####

Fluxapyroxad - 7
BP, DS, LP, SM, SP

• Xzemplar $$$$/####

Isofetamid - 7
DS

• Kabuto Fungicide SC $$$/##

Penthiopyrad - 7
An, BP, DS, GSM, LP, LS, PM, PP, RT, Ru

• Velista $$$$$/###

FRAC Group 11

Azoxystrobin - 11 (doesn't control dollar spot)
An, BP, FP, FR, GLS, GSM, LS, LP, MO, NRS, PB, PP, PSM, PRR, Ru, RT, SB, SDS, SP, TAP, TB, YP, ZP

• Azoxy 2SC $$$/##
• Azoxy 50 WDG $$$$/##
• Heritage G (granular) $$/#####
• Scotts DiseaseEX (granular) $/###
• Strobe 2L $$$$$/#
• Strobe 50WG $$$$/##

Fluoxastrobin - 11
An, BP, BR, DS, FP, FR, GLS, LS, MO, NRS, PB, PDO, PM, PP, PRD, PRR, PSM, RT, Ru, SB, SDS, SM, SP, TAP, TB, WP, YP, ZP

• Fame (granular) $$/####
• Fame SC $$$$$/##

Trifloxystrobin - 11
An, BP, BR, DS, FP, FR, GLS, LS, MO, NRS, PB, PDO, PM, PP, PRD, PRR, PSM, RT, Ru, SB, SDS, SM, SP, TAP, TB, WP, YP, ZP

• Compass 50 WG $$$$$/###

FRAC Group 21

Cyazofamid - 21
PB, PDO, PRD

• Segway $$$$$/######

Combination Products

• Armada 50 WDG: Trifloxystrobin - 11 & Triadimefon - 3 $$$/##
• Headway G (granular): Azoxystrobin - 11 & Propiconazole - 3 $$/#####
• Pillar G Intrinsic (granular): Pyraclostrobin - 11 & Triticonazole - 3 $$/#####
• Quali-pro Strobe Pro G (granular): Azoxystrobin - 11 & Propiconazole - 3 $$/#####
• Exteris Stressguard: Fluopyram - 7 & Trifloxystrobin - 11 $$$$$/##

Organic & Alternative Fungicides

• Actinovate SP - OMRI listed (Bacteria)
• Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide
• Bonide Neem Oil
• Bonide Orchard Spray (Sulfur)
• Double Nickel 55 - OMRI listed (Bacteria)
• Double Nickel LC - OMRI listed (Bacteria)
• Dr. Earth Final Stop - OMRI listed (Oil)
• EcoVia 3in1 -OMRI listed (Oil)
• Monterey Complete Disease Control - OMRI listed (Bacteria)
• Monterey Consan 20
• Natria Disease Control for Lawns (Bacteria)
• Organocide 3in1 Garden Spray (Oil)
• Rhapsody by Bayer (Bacteria)
• SePRO Camelot O - OMRI listed (Copper)
• Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide - OMRI listed (Bacteria)
• ZeroTol 2.0 - OMRI listed

Edit:
The 2020 Rutger Chemical Control publication is now available. It is great resource for how to treat most fungus.

I just over seeded and I have had some fungus problems in the past. High pressure this season but preventive measures have really helped.

Question is : Should I use Azoxy or Propi or Both , to help protect the new seed/seed lings

 

[MikeConroy]

I just over seeded and I have had some fungus problems in the past. High pressure this season but preventive measures have really helped.

Question is : Should I use Azoxy or Propi or Both , to help protect the new seed/seed lings

I just watched the recent OSU Turf Times video, those that attempted to overseed in the summer got pythium because the temp increased the pressure. It does happen to other during overseeding at the correct time tho as your constantly keeping the soil "moist" for very long periods. Fungicides with great efficacy for pythium are mefenoxam and cyazofamid which are both expensive investments.

 

[MacLawn]

I just watched the recent OSU Turf Times video, those that attempted to overseed in the summer got pythium because the temp increased the pressure. It does happen to other during overseeding at the correct time tho as your constantly keeping the soil "moist" for very long periods. Fungicides with great efficacy for pythium are mefenoxam and cyazofamid which are both expensive investments.

Im pretty tapped out on cash so no more products. I have azoxy and propi on hand .
Creen cast puts Pythium low on the scale at the moment . Right now dollar spot and take all patch are high
I used Mefenoxam late spring early summer when Pythium was reported high
Along with Azoxy
Been rotating through Mefenoxam , Azoxi and Propi

 

[MacLawn]

Well, sometimes you just have to use what you have on hand.
So I applied both. I did 1800 ft.² last year and I just use azoxy and everything went OK. I’m expecting the same here we will see.

 

[MacLawn]

I have a question
I learned over the past 5-6 seasons
I brought on a lot of my fungi problems myself
That said with over seeding more Disease resistant cultivars
Improving mowing , watering , soil , feeding…… my lawn seems to be recovering well.
no major die off or wide spread issues

So question : After a few seasons of Curative and preventive Fungicide.
Should I be making an attempt to add Beneficial fungi ?
If so what and how ?