[Overtaxed]

And bag your clippings if you suspect active fungus.

Never thought of that (embarrassed to say), but it makes sense. Get the spore infested blades out of there, right? Is this a general recommendation dealing with fungus? I've just never seen anyone mention it before, but it certainly seems reasonable!

Yes. It is standard practice to reduce disease pressure when the disease is already present.

Thanks Stellar, learned something new today! I'm in the fight with some fungus right now, so I'll absolutely start doing that. Again, makes perfect sense, fewer spores is better than more spores, I just never thought about it.

 

[MrJangles82]

He recommended i go back down to lower HOC and mow twice every week. So, I'll go down to 3.5" and trying to determine curative fungicide treatment plan for my tall fescue.

And bag your clippings if you suspect active fungus.

Thank you for the tip! Fortunately already been bagging clippings thus far this year. Had some patches of POA, so we were bagging in attempt to avoid the POA spreading. This past weekend we ended up just picking them by hand, so I'm glad you mentioned this because we were going to start mulching the clippings. Thank you!

 

[Lawndad]

Well, my BP came back this year and last year it killed a decent amount of my grass. Last year, I ran Scotts Disease EX, Propi (liquid) and some Clearys (liquid) which obviously didn't help.

This year I applied Pillar G and 15 days later I applied Clearys 3336 (granular). Clearys was just a few days ago. I'm worried it's going to continue to spread and kill my lawn much earlier than it did last year.

I have TTTF in NJ, I don't water much and if so early in the AM, my mower's blades are sharp and I applied Double Dark 16-0-0 %6 Fe a few weeks ago (3#/1k sf).

What should be my go to kill for this BP now? Spraying Azoxy....?

 

[Old Hickory]

Well, my BP came back this year and last year it killed a decent amount of my grass.

BP meaning Brown Patch? Or do you mean PB pythium blight? Looks like PB and if so then look at Mefenoxom.

 

[Lawndad]

Well, my BP came back this year and last year it killed a decent amount of my grass.

BP meaning Brown Patch? Or do you mean PB pythium blight? Looks like PB and if so then look at Mefenoxom.

I am %99 sure Brown Patch. Last year, I had my local county extension confirm that for me. It has the same cotton mycelium as last year and looks dead in those spots.

Edit: It's not greasy either which led me to BP as well.

 

[Darth_V8r]

Well, my BP came back this year and last year it killed a decent amount of my grass.

BP meaning Brown Patch? Or do you mean PB pythium blight? Looks like PB and if so then look at Mefenoxom.

I am %99 sure Brown Patch. Last year, I had my local county extension confirm that for me. It has the same cotton mycelium as last year and looks dead in those spots.

Edit: It's not greasy either which led me to BP as well.

Consider Broadform Fungicide or Luna Experience. Same ingredients - Fluopyram and Trifloxystrobin. Very effective against quite a wide range of diseases. It's the same main ingredients as Extersis Stressgard, but much higher concentration. Added benefit of being able to keep a nematode infestation at bay

 

[Matthew_73]

OHP 6672 50 WP $36.98 8 apps at low rate and 4 apps at high rate..

Would this work as a temp for this season and then next, get a bigger quantity?

 

[Camman595]

Sample preventive fungicide program with 4 MOA:
Azoxystrobin 28 days
Propiconazole 14 days (labelled for 21 days but that didn't work for me)
Thiophanate-methyl 14 days
Flutolanil 14 days

Does this mean apply Azoxystrobin, then 28 days later apply Propiconazole, then 14 days later apply Thiophanate-methyl, then 14 days later apply Flutolanil, then 14 days later start the cycle again?

Or does it mean apply Azoxystrobin every 28 days and apply Propiconazole & Thiophanate-methyl & Flutolanil 14 every 14 days?

 

[Old Hickory]

I take it as meaning the first.

 

[corneliani]

Sample preventive fungicide program with 4 MOA:
Azoxystrobin 28 days
Propiconazole 14 days (labelled for 21 days but that didn't work for me)
Thiophanate-methyl 14 days
Flutolanil 14 days

Does this mean apply Azoxystrobin, then 28 days later apply Propiconazole, then 14 days later apply Thiophanate-methyl, then 14 days later apply Flutolanil, then 14 days later start the cycle again?

Or does it mean apply Azoxystrobin every 28 days and apply Propiconazole & Thiophanate-methyl & Flutolanil 14 every 14 days?

Don't view this as a hard & set instruction set as much as a list of varied fungicides with different MOA's that can be used to control against most common fungus outbreaks in the home lawn. These products would ideally be tank-mixed in some sort of combination to give you those different MOAs in each app (the consensus seems to be that this offers the best defense for fungicide resistance, as well as highest efficacy per app). The "art" of which fungicide to apply & at what interval is something that should really depend on what disease you're trying to prevent and the pressure you're facing - hence why labels have that "apply when conditions are favorable for disease development" statement. This will differ depending on your turf type, location, soil OM, etc etc etc.

For a quick gameplan/overview, most of us have 3-4 months of fungus season to contend with (approx 4-6 preventative applications). Azoxystrobin allows for 2-3 continuous apps before recommending changing MOAs. TM allows for 4 yearly apps of 2oz/1000 (or 2 apps of 4oz for curative). Not sure on Prop but I tend to use it more as a tank-mix than a stand-alone app. Either way these 3 products themselves should cover you for 4-6 apps, and the addition of a Group7 (Velista?) would really take you to the next level. Ideally cultural practices together with the right cultivar turf will eliminate the need for such expensive synthetic fungicides. It would be a win/win all around for that to happen. But for highly maintained turf this may always be a necessity.

...

For me in Atlanta my fungicide season starts in early-mid May and I'm mainly concerned with BP & GLS. There's a chance of DS early in the season when the nights are still cold and dew forms on the turf so I start my season off with Propiconazole (either alone or tank mixed with TM or Azoxy, depending on how hot/muggy things got). I like it here because it's still cool enough where temp restrictions don't kick in, and any growth regulation it causes is a welcome respite.
If the weather is especially wet & muggy I may have to apply another app as early as 14 days but if things are normal I try to wait the full 25-28 days that Azoxy gives me. This is all a judgement call. I usually rely on Azoxystrobin to carry me through the early summer months (tank mixed w Propiconazole or TM) and after 3-4 apps I'll switch to TM (with or without Prop). If weather is still hot during overseeding window an application of Prop will wrap up my season. I usually anticipate 5-7 apps per season in my southern climate.

 

[Camman595]

@corneliani Thank you for the very informative explanation. That helps a lot. I have never dealt with fungicides before (even though I had fungus, but didn't realize it). I am now getting into caring for my lawn and don't want to lose ground to something that is easily preventable. I am doing a reno on my front yard and I am using 3 top-quality cultivars of TTTF.

 

[kk07]

Hi, I have TTTF-KBG lawn that I seeded on labor day. I am seeing some yellow spots. My last fungicide app was on 09/30 with Propiconozol 14.3. I have been spoon feeding urea too 0.25 lb N weekly. I am thinking of applying azoxy 2sc this weekend. My question is how late can I apply fungicides before the winter? Like is there a minimum temperature that the fungicide would work?

 

[Jeff_MI84]

When you start to notice lesions on the blades going into winter, when do you start reapplying in the spring?

Once soil/ surface temperatures get to a specific range? After the first few mows?

 

[Green]

When you start to notice lesions on the blades going into winter, when do you start reapplying in the spring?

Once soil/ surface temperatures get to a specific range? After the first few mows?

Depends on whether the disease overwinter and remains active or not. Some subside over Winter and begin again later in the year rather than Spring.

 

[Green]

Hi, I have TTTF-KBG lawn that I seeded on labor day. I am seeing some yellow spots. My last fungicide app was on 09/30 with Propiconozol 14.3. I have been spoon feeding urea too 0.25 lb N weekly. I am thinking of applying azoxy 2sc this weekend. My question is how late can I apply fungicides before the winter? Like is there a minimum temperature that the fungicide would work?

The label should give you temperature info. Also, try to identify at least what disease family you're dealing with. Eg. Leaf spot vs rust, etc.

 

[kk07]

Hi, I have TTTF-KBG lawn that I seeded on labor day. I am seeing some yellow spots. My last fungicide app was on 09/30 with Propiconozol 14.3. I have been spoon feeding urea too 0.25 lb N weekly. I am thinking of applying azoxy 2sc this weekend. My question is how late can I apply fungicides before the winter? Like is there a minimum temperature that the fungicide would work?

The label should give you temperature info. Also, try to identify at least what disease family you're dealing with. Eg. Leaf spot vs rust, etc.

I read the propiconazole 14.3 label. I can't find any temperature information for melting out. It only mention the application interval which is 14 days. Can you point me to the label with such temp info?

 

[Jeff_MI84]

@Green thank you. I suppose I'll just be more vigilant once the lawn greens up in the spring and I begin mowing.

 

[Jeff_MI84]

@kk07 if you can, try reaching out to the manufacturer. I did that for Eagle 20ew (Dow AgroSciences). It seems like the regional reps are very helpful. I was told by their representative that I didn't (or shouldn't) need to spray below 50° for DS or MO.

 

[Green]

Hi, I have TTTF-KBG lawn that I seeded on labor day. I am seeing some yellow spots. My last fungicide app was on 09/30 with Propiconozol 14.3. I have been spoon feeding urea too 0.25 lb N weekly. I am thinking of applying azoxy 2sc this weekend. My question is how late can I apply fungicides before the winter? Like is there a minimum temperature that the fungicide would work?

The label should give you temperature info. Also, try to identify at least what disease family you're dealing with. Eg. Leaf spot vs rust, etc.

I read the propiconazole 14.3 label. I can't find any temperature information for melting out. It only mention the application interval which is 14 days. Can you point me to the label with such temp info?

I would also do some online searching in that case, if no one here knows. I know some fungicides can be used be used in low temps, but I'm not sure which ones.

 

[SouthernTiftuf]

I have read through a lot of this thread and it has some great info and I just have some follow up questions for my bermuda being laid in MArch.

Should I apply Azoxystrobin a couple of days after the sod is laid? It makes sense in my head to do tis with all of the watering I will be doing. Is there any risks or negatives to this?

When do you stop applying fungicides throughout the year? I have seen anything from August to November so I am not sure when is the best time and if extending it later poses any harm to the grass?

How do insecticides play into this? I have seen a lot about fungicide but also want to avoid things like grubs in the yard so how often and when should this be applied to be preventative?

Thank you in advance to any replies and thank you to everyone else for the knowledge I have gained from this thread!