The best fertilizer you can use is the one that your soil test shows you need. For instance without a soil test how to you know you need phosphorus or potassium. As far as milorganite that is a mostly organic fertilizer and preforms well in the warmer months when it can be broken down by the micros.

 

I've been reading info on my local extension and they recommend for tall fescue a 4-1-2 ratio fertilizer. I also keep reading a bunch of posts recommending Milorganite. Does anyone have any experience with these 2, or recommendations to get the grass nice and dark green and loaded up before winter?

The best fertilizer you can use is the one that your soil test shows you need. For instance without a soil test how to you know you need phosphorus or potassium. As far as milorganite that is a mostly organic fertilizer and preforms well in the warmer months when it can be broken down by the micros.

Yes, I have been meaning to get one done, but have not had one done yet. They said in the absence of a soil test use the 4-1-2 ratio.

 

When they say 4-1-2 "ratio" they are also saying 8-2-4 and 16-4-8. That is because N is used up quicker than the P and K is used up. So the 4-1-2 ratio is balanced for how the plant uses the NPK.

I use a 16-4-8 in the fall.

 

I like the balanced idea but I do like a little extra nitrogen for my first shot of fertilizer then less or no potassium for my second shot and winterizer because of snow mold

 

Return your glass clippings to the soil. Those are 4-1-2, I believe.

 

A 4-1-2 ratio is a good idea until you get a soil test. With that said, there are a lot of people with nice lawns that abandon that ratio in the fall, as outlined here: Fall Nitrogen Blitz (cool season grasses only)

According to the Milorganite web site, N is delivered to the roots through microbial activity in the soil, but the conditions need to be right, i.e. soil temps need to be within 55-85 F. Milorganite contains iron, which will give you that dark green you're seeking.

 

A 4-1-2 ratio is a good idea until you get a soil test. With that said, there are a lot of people with nice lawns that abandon that ratio in the fall, as outlined here: Fall Nitrogen Blitz (cool season grasses only)

According to the Milorganite web site, N is delivered to the roots through microbial activity in the soil, but the conditions need to be right, i.e. soil temps need to be within 55-85 F. Milorganite contains iron, which will give you that dark green you're seeking.

I noticed that. What are the potential downside to using fertilizer that leaves out P or K? Or do you add that on its own in another manner?

 

No real downside to using just Nitrogen as long as there is sufficient P and K already in the soil. If you are deficient in either then the grass will struggle some unless you add it. If you are borderline, then you will eventually become deficient if you don't replace it. Mulching the grass instead of bagging will also return P and K to the soil as the cut grass decomposes.