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Fall plan for KBG Sodded lawn - Overseed vs Nitrogin blitz

5K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  mucknine  
#1 ·
Hi all,

New to the forum here and been mostly reading (A LOT) to this point. I'm at the point now though where a feel a little advice could go a long way.

I'm having what may be a typical fall dilemma - to overseed or not. I'll add some images below, but my situation is this; I've got a 1 yr old new construction and sod was layed just over a year ago - pure KBG, with an irrigation system. The landscaper put down a layer of topsoil which I suspect is thin in some areas and beneath that is probably a mess that mostly consists of clay but potential typical builder mess/materials.

This spring, I fertilized (starter) and aerated (felt like there was debris build up, more on that later), did a couple of milo substitute (I'm in Canada so couldn't get the real thing, used HH 9-2-2 with Fe) treatments over the summer. Despite this, there were sections of my yard that never fully greened and thickened up at any point this year. Through the hot summer, I was just trying to maintain these and look ahead to a recovery program for the fall.

I'm doing pretty well in terms of weeds - not perfect, but very few and I stay on top of them either by hand pulling or spot treatments with Killex. (one of the pics will show a bit of what I'm dealing with)

I've also done a couple of baby shampoo treatments as the trouble spots for me, the soil was very hard - in some places I couldn't even get a screwdriver in the ground at all. This, and the falling temperatures seems to have helped. I can now get the screwdriver in at least a few inches even in the trouble spots.

A couple of weeks ago, I was sure that I was that I'd overseed given the state of the yard and trouble areas. I called a couple of seed farms for advice on what to overseed with and they both recommended a certified PRG blend and said it would mix well with the KBG. But now that temperatures have started to cool I see reason for optimism that overseeding may not be needed. (Pics make things look pretty good actually, but I have issues - are they lawn or personal?? :? )

So my question to you - based on the above and the pics - what would you do?

In either case, I feel like there is a lot of lawn debris/dead grass/mulch that should be removed. It's felt this way all year that maybe the roots aren't able to get what they need (esp in the dried out areas) - water, fert, etc. I've purchased a Sun Joe dethatcher/scarifier and plan to dethatch to get rid of the debris.

So - the options:

In both cases, I'd been thinking to start on Labour Day weekend (Aug 31). Can start earlier if recommended though but soil temps here are still ~80 degress.
Image


1. Dethatch and Nitrogen Blitz
1. Use Sun Joe to take care of the debris
2. Follow the Fall Nitrogen Blitz plan

2. Dethatch and Overseed
- Current plan for this option would be to:
1. Shock by reducing HOC to ~2"
2. Dethatch with Sun Joe
3. Scarify to prepare for seed to soil contact,
4. Overseed with the PRG blend,
5. Roll,
6. Lightly cover with peat moss,
7. Water 3x daily until new seed has caught up
8. I'd then start to fertilize in a couple of weeks around 1st cut.

Other notes:
Soil test - I haven't found a good place from here (Windsor area in Southern Ontario) to do a soil test. Suggestions appreciated. So I don't know my soil chemistry.
HOC - I was at 4" most of the year, until about a month ago a dropped to 3.5" because it just wasn't looking great at 4".
Climate wise - I'm in Windsor, ON which is equivalent to Detroit in terms of zones.
Mows - generally mulching, and trying to stick to the 1/3 rule.
HOC last fall - I think I may have left too long (3.5") in the fall - could this have contribute to my debris problems in the spring?























 
#4 ·
Welcome to TLF. As others noted above, there is no need to over seed. Get on the Fall N Blitz - pick up Urea if you don't already have it and throw down 0.25lb N per week. You can start now and make sure to irrigate the following morning if there isn't any rain (about 0.25" of water).

Come September/October you will notice a huge difference in the colour and density.

The worst thing you can do is judge your lawn in July. It's going to get stressed and some or all of it will go dormant depending on your cultural practices.

FWIW the HH fert is a great product. I used it last year and really liked the results.

You can start dropping your HOC as the weather cools as well. Last year I was at approx. 2" in the fall. Others keep theirs around 2.5".

Your lawn looks great! Drop the nitrogen and watch it grow!
 
#6 ·
your grass looks great, you shouldn't have to overseed on a KBG lawn and unless you know the exact varieties of grass that made up the sod I'd say leave it but I want a perfect match. On the other hand nothing wrong with some genetic diversity.

Do the fall nitrogen blitz, even if you can't find urea just use a "winterizer" from scotts or other company and you'll be fine. As long as your lawn gets fertilizer during that cool weather when it grows best it will fill in just fine. Don't think that you need to drive 20 miles to a farm store to get urea. Any winterizer will do just fine, your grass looks great already and doesn't require much filling in or care. I don't even see a weed.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys - great to get your perspectives. It's validating what I was starting to feel already -that the overseed is unnecessary.

I can get some Urea no problem, so I'll go that route starting ASAP, 0.25lb N/K every week as suggested by Harts.

Pardon the ignorance, but AMS?

One final follow up question - what do you guys think on the dethatching (removing the debris)? Would this help me have a more successful fall green up and thickening?
 
#8 ·
mucknine said:
Thanks guys - great to get your perspectives. It's validating what I was starting to feel already -that the overseed is unnecessary.

I can get some Urea no problem, so I'll go that route starting ASAP, 0.25lb N/K every week as suggested by Harts.

Pardon the ignorance, but AMS?

One final follow up question - what do you guys think on the dethatching (removing the debris)? Would this help me have a more successful fall green up and thickening?
AMS = Ammonium Sulfate, which usually comes in powder form you mix in a spray tank and spray your fertilizer on. Some people like it for the smaller doses of Nitrogen because its foliar and seems to have a more immediate effect and can be easier to apply. .25# of N using full Urea is like .5# per 1k sqft. It can honestly be hard to properly spread such a tiny amount of pelleted fertilizer over 1k sqft and get real even coverage.

More info about it and spraying iron (FAS) at the same time can be found here.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=211
 
#9 ·
If you want to dethatch, go for it. But I don't think it's necessary. Hit it with Urea and mow frequently and supplement with water, when necessary.

The Urea will also last you for a couple of years. You'll only need approx. 1.5lbs of Urea for 3100 Sqft each week. You'll likely only use 10lbs or so this Fall. Lots leftover for next year!
 
#10 ·
Your lawn looks slightly stressed from summer but also in need of nitrogen. You can start applying nitrogen right away.

Depending on what your soil ph level is AMS might be a good choice alternating with urea. I've applied AMS granular and find it gives good results for my lawn (ph 7.8).

I see no reason to stress the grass even more by detaching. Get on the fast acting N and make sure to water in each app with around .5" of irrigation.

Like suburban jungle life mentioned you can send your soil to waypoint in the states. I sent mine to the Tennessee location but you might be able to send to the closer location. They have a few. It was $24 CAD to ship if I remember correctly. Do this in the early spring before adding any fertilizer. You'll need to contact them to get the proper paper work to be able to send your soil across the border.
 
#14 ·
Quick update and request for advice:

So I decided to go ahead with the Sun Joe dethatcher. I just felt like there was too much debris in there for the lawn to breathe properly. At the same time, I've been sticking with the spoon feeding of N via Urea at ~ 0.25 lb of N/M per week. Two applications so far.

The lawn is a bit disappointed with me and is in recovery mode from the dethatching. I'm optimistic that in a few weeks it will be back to looking great (better I hope) and healthier for it.

Couple questions for the group:

1. Given that I dethatched - any advice for other applications other than the N blitz to aid recovery? I've been trying to source some Humic and Kelp but haven't found anything economical and easy to order down here.

2. I'm now due for my next application of N now and per the above advice, got my hands on some FAS and AMS from Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Ammonium-Sulfate-NH4-2SO4-5-Pounds/ https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007ODUNJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was going to a combo of the AMS and FAS this time but given I'm a first timer, wanted some advice on quantity and application method. I don't have a backpack sprayer (yet) - just a 1 gallon hand pump style. I also have a hose end sprayer (Ortho). What quantity and how would you guys apply?

Appreciate the help and happy Labour Day.
 
#15 ·
Applied the FAS and AS along with Urea yesterday using my hand pump sprayer. Only makes me want the battery backpack sprayer that much more. I think it went down well and consistently, the only bummer was that it rained a few hours later. Tell me if I'm wrong here, but ideally the application would have been foliar and had a chance to be absorbed but it's not a completely wasted application given the rain, is it?