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Distress Lawn need your advice.

2.4K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Green23  
#1 ·
The Lawn Forum is very informative. I appreciate your advices and suggestions to repair my distress lawn. I am enclosing photos for your review.
Back yard
Back ground
After fertilizer and weed application last summer, the grass dried and invaded by this type of weed as in photos. Lawn mower co. waited in the Fall to apply weed killer, (fail to disclose name of weed killer.) After 10 days, weed did not dried, seeds and soil applied sparsely.
This Spring weed grows fast after fertilizer and weed app...Bare patches no grass.
I pulled out the weed with soil which was soaked by the rain. I found small long reddish worm about 1 inch under the soil.
Lawn co. suggested waiting till Fall to address. With last year errors, I better repair the lawn now.
My Questions:
1. What is the name of this weed? Can it be used as an alternative cover for my lawn?
2. When the weed is pulled out in large patches, can seed be sowed covered on the bare soil? Will seeds grow or will weed also grow at the same time?
3. If weed killer is applied, do I have to dig up the dried weed to sew seed?
4. How many days to wait after weed kill app to sew seed?

Front yard
The yellow patches in the front yard for a few years. I had removed the dried grass and sow seeds. Not improving much.
My Question:
1. Are the yellow patches a disease? I see same in neighbours' lawn.
2. How to repair this?
Thanks in advance for your advice.

Back yard







Front yard



 
#2 ·
1) The first one is blurry. Does it get a lot of purple flowers? But I think it's a deadnettle. They don't withstand much traffic at all and make poor ground covers.

2) Yes. Use the stuff for patches or cover with peat for better germination. Both always will sprout, but the grass with outrun the weeds.

3) You usually need to rake it, unless it really withers well.

4) When it's good and dead. Depends on weather.

1) probably not, but I'm not at allllll an expert on turf diseases.

2) fertilize and water when it's needed and turf gets dense.
 
#3 ·
Welcome to TLF. The company you hired likely used a product called Fiesta. The active ingredient is iron (presented as FeHedta). It does work but multiple applications are typically necessary.

From the look of your photos, you do not have much grass. A lot of bare dirt. I would be inclined to kill everything with Glyphosate (you will need to source from the US). You can then seed the same day or wait a week to see if you need to spray glyphosate again. This will kill anything that is green, including grass.

I would then seed and water consistently for a few weeks. You can check out the Cool Season Guide here and read the sub forums on overseeding and renovations.

This is something I would do in mid-August (kill the weeds and existing grass near the end of July). Spring seeding is spotty at best due to the inconsistent temps we get in Southern ON. Germination times are increased and the new grass may not be established enough to survive the heat of July and August.
 
#7 ·
I hate to recommend a complete glyphosate renovation for someone who maybe is still just starting out with there lawn but I agree with the post above. There is hardly any grass growing so you will need to seed it and the difference between a overseed and a renovation in this case will only be the glyphosate. No point in trying to selectively kill the weeds when you can just start fresh.

Take a look at the renovation guide and look through some of the lawn journals to see what steps you need to take.
 
#8 ·
Thank you all for your advice.

I am posting new photos for a better view. Still learning the technical part to posting in the forum.

1.Yes, the weed has tiny purple flowers. The lighter colour tip of the weed is the flower.

2. New grass is growing on some areas without the weed.

3. Front lawn photo with bare patches.

I read the Guide as suggested.

Thanks again.

Back lawn weed



Back lawn new grass



Front Lawn bare patches

 
#9 ·
Harts said:
I disagree with the above. Adding nitrogen is going to make your weed problem much larger and as I mentioned there isn't enough grass present for fertilizer to help fill in those bare spots.
Fallowing is going to make his weed problem infinitely worse than fertilizing could ever dream of....

There is enough grass in the photos to get something going with the right Height Of Cut 3"+ & repeated fertilizer applications. He can always overseed in late summer and spray weeds / start PreM in the fall with no penalty to his progress.
 
#10 ·
Yes, fallowing does promote weed growth. Which is important when killing everything off. But it doesn't make the situation worse. It improves the chances of killing everything.

With that said, the new photos tell a different story. There appears to be more grass than the original photos depicted and an overseed will help.

However, I would take care of the weeds now. Fertilizer and mowing at 3" alone will not drastically improve your situation. I doubt your grass is 100% KBG. There is likely fescue and perennial rye mixed in.

So, herbicide apps combined with proper feeding, irrigation and frequent mowing. Then you can over seed in the late summer. Or if you choose, you can do a total renovation. It depends on your time and financial commitment.
 
#11 ·
Harts said:
Proper / regular feeding, and frequent mowing at 3"+. Then you can over seed in the late summer.
Agreed. I promise that those two steps alone will make tremendous progress.

There is no sense in treating weeds when the lawn is that sparse. Irrigation will only encourage more weeds to germinate - especially when there is no grass to compete with and is bare soil that will dry out almost immediately when the sun hits it.
 
#12 ·
@Green23 I'm going to bow out of this conversation. @SNOWBOB11 who is a well respected member and myself have given you sound advice.

I disagree with the previous poster - who has used my words out of context. Rather than get into an argument and muddy this post, I'm going to move on.

I urge you to read the cool season guide and decide for yourself, how much investment you would like to make into lawn care.

Feel free to PM me should have any questions.

Best of luck.
 
#13 ·
Regarding fallowing and weed pressure:

I reclaimed a large area that was previously a garden bed, home to every variety of perennial and annual weed.

I started bi-weekly applications of glyphosate on July 5, with regular watering to encourage seed germination and growth.

By early August, the soil was bare as can be.

Seed down and final glyphosate application on August 15.

The last photo was a few days ago. HOC 5/8".







 
#14 ·
Thanks for all your advice.

New grass is growing in the backyard. At first, I was planning to dig up the weed and sew seeds during the rainy months. I read that it is best to kill weed while they are active in May and by Fall when they are dormant weed killer would not be effective? The weeds are short and was not cut during last week lawn mowing. The gardener applied fertilizer, weed and aeration in April.

I do not know the meaning of "following" and "weed pressure" and google search without the proper display.
I also not sure what kind of grass I have in my lawn nor how to calculate my lawn size.

I am encourage and amazed to see Sinclair successful story in reclaiming the bare piece of land. You sew seed in July, would it be too hot and dry? The weather in Markham, Greater Toronto is around 15 to 18 degree C.

I am trying to repair my lawn in an economic way without too much labour.

I am sorry for the disagreement due to my posting. I do believe different opinions are healthy in resolving problems. Appreciate you all put in your efforts to advice me.

Thanks!