Regarding painting with glyphosate, what is the mixture you (everyone) use to go about this? I have a patch of turf in between retaining walls that is heavily infested with very difficult weeds, such as various types of vines, but very easy to spot treat because it's basically waist-high. I am wondering what members use and have found to be the best mix to paint with, or, if anyone has tested numerous mixes?

Examples could be things like: 50/50 glyphosate/water concentrate with X used as a surfactant.

 

Regarding painting with glyphosate, what is the mixture you (everyone) use to go about this? I have a patch of turf in between retaining walls that is heavily infested with very difficult weeds, such as various types of vines, but very easy to spot treat because it's basically waist-high. I am wondering what members use and have found to be the best mix to paint with, or, if anyone has tested numerous mixes?

Examples could be things like: 50/50 glyphosate/water concentrate with X used as a surfactant.

I painted glyphosate earlier in the year and just applied it straight. Wore nitrile gloves and just touched the tip of each blade I was targeting. It worked well. Problem was I had too much and eventually gave up.

 

I've found the straight 41% concentrate doesn't spread well and tends to bead together.

 

So after a whole bunch of research and recommendations around here..for my sedges I think I am going to try Dismiss/Monument over Certainty.

For grassy weeds and broadleaf it comes down to Celsius, or a combination of(Quinclorac and 2,4d). A bottle of Celsius is about the same price as Quinclorac + 2,4d. Will the Celsius get me just as much control over Crabgrass,Goosegrass, and the broadleaf stuff as a combination of the quinclorac and the 2,4d?

 

I prefer Celsius because it has no temp restriction.

 

I prefer Celsius because it has no temp restriction.

Is there a major difference between what the Celsius will control and its effectiveness compared to the combination of the Quinclorac and 2,4d will control especially in crabgrass?

 

I prefer Celsius because it has no temp restriction.

+1

 

I prefer Celsius because it has no temp restriction.

Is there a major difference between what the Celsius will control and its effectiveness compared to the combination of the Quinclorac and 2,4d will control especially in crabgrass?

Coupled with a good pre-e program, I haven't encountered anything that Celsius and Sedgehammer wouldn't kill. :thumbup:

 

Coupled with a good pre-e program, I haven't encountered anything that Celsius and Sedgehammer wouldn't kill. :thumbup:

Well...I just pulled the trigger on Prodiamine and Princep for my preemergence, and Celsius, Dismiss, Monument. The dismiss was expensive, but I've heard it is probably one of the better solutions for Sedges along with Monument (got it really for when I start seeing annual poa, and it was only $20 for enough for spot spraying). At this point, if any weeds get past this, they deserve to live. I appreciate all the help. I'll report back to how much stuff lives...or how much of my yard I kill haha.

 

Ware, what would you recommend as a post-emergent for my weeds? I'm a little confused with the Bermuda triangle. It says pre-emergent, but can they be used as post as well???

 

Ware, what would you recommend as a post-emergent for my weeds? I'm a little confused with the Bermuda triangle. It says pre-emergent, but can they be used as post as well???

Celsius for post-emergent control of both broadleaf and grassy weeds. Certainty for the sedges. A good pre-emergent program is just the foundation of the Bermuda Triangle. Maintain a good pre-emergent barrier to keep new weeds from emerging, then use Celsius and Certainty to take care of anything that is actively growing or breaks through the pre-e barrier. The pre-e barrier is important because it will allow you to eventually just spot spray the Celsius and Certainty. :thumbup:

 

Ware, what would you recommend as a post-emergent for my weeds? I'm a little confused with the Bermuda triangle. It says pre-emergent, but can they be used as post as well???

Celsius for post-emergent control of both broadleaf and grassy weeds. Certainty for the sedges. A good pre-emergent program is just the foundation of the Bermuda Triangle. Maintain a good pre-emergent barrier to keep new weeds from emerging, then use Celsius and Certainty to take care of anything that is actively growing or breaks through the pre-e barrier. The pre-e barrier is important because it will allow you to eventually just spot spray the Celsius and Certainty. :thumbup:

Maaaan, I love you man!!! Ha!
Do you do any YouTube videos or anything?
Also, I've spoken with the wifey and have explained that although it cost so much, it goes a long way and cost less in the end. I hope it still works with her. Haha.

Have you seen my updated pictures?? If not check them out. Right now we're just getting a lot of rain and my dirt isn't able to dry out in some spots, so I'm a little concerned

 

If I could only chose 1 for financial reasons and combine with something cheaper for the time being, which would you chose between Celsius and certainty? Sorry for all these questions

 

Celsius.

 

If I could only chose 1 for financial reasons and combine with something cheaper for the time being, which would you chose between Celsius and certainty? Sorry for all these questions

I agree, for broad spectrum post-emergent control, it's hard to beat the Celsius. That said, the sedge is a real nuisance that I wouldn't want to leave unchecked. This is not the cheapest option ($/ft2[/sup]), but you can buy Sedgehammer Plus in a single use packet for about $10. It contains a surfactant, so all you have to do is mix it up in 1 gallon of water and spot spray up to 1,000 square feet. It is much more expensive to go this route ($/ft[sup]2), but the upfront cost is lower if you don't have a large sedge infestation.

I would also say getting a fall and spring pre-emergent app in would be at the top of my priority list - otherwise you'll be right back in this situation next year. monty is working on a Prodiamine split to help reduce the upfront cost for those with a small lawn.

 

Can I mix all those or should I wait a certain amount of time after the post emergent is used?

 

Can I mix all those or should I wait a certain amount of time after the post emergent is used?

I have mixed Celsius and Sedgehammer. I think others have mixed Celsius and Certainty.

I would spray the pre-emergent separately, and it needs 1/2" of rainfall or irrigation after application.

 

Can I mix all those or should I wait a certain amount of time after the post emergent is used?

I have sprayed Celsius and Prodiamine together with great results. As the Celsius killed any existing weeds and the Prodiamine kept anymore from germinating. I am not sure about adding Certainty to the mix but my gut says it should be fine but I would do a test area first just to be safe. When I have spot sprayed Celsius and Certainty together, I got some mild bleaching/stunted growth of the lawn in those areas. It could have been just me being heavy handed with the mix though.

 

Celsius.

+1 with this. You'll be able to handle a lot of weeds with the Celsius and get a lot of them under control and remove the pressure off of the grass. Don't be surprised if you thought you had more grass than you did when the weeds die, and reveal a lot of bare dirt.

If I could only chose 1 for financial reasons and combine with something cheaper for the time being, which would you chose between Celsius and certainty? Sorry for all these questions

An alternative that you can use for just sedge control that's pretty inexpensive is Sedgehammer, which comes in a single-use pack, and cost around $11 to mix up 1 gallon of kill juice. TBH, I wasn't really impressed with the results , but YMMV. I sprayed it side-by-side with a sedge filled section of my back yard, and the side that I used Dismiss on got smoked. The Sedgehammer, not so much. Dismiss has the active ingredient of Sulfentrazone. You can get the generic active ingredient for significantly less, but I had the name brand in the shopping cart, and forgot to get the generic. It's pretty potent stuff, and I've been very impressed with it's performance(I've got green kyllinga).

Edit: I didn't see your post John before I wrote my reply. I was on the prior page.

 

Edit: I didn't see your post John before I wrote my reply. I was on the prior page.

Great minds... :lol:

 

Pre-emergent question...What is the general rule about how much pre-emerge to put down? I recently put down Dimension. The bag noted that 3.5 lbs per 1k square ft. for 2-3 months of protection, 4.0-4.7 lbs per 1k sq. ft for 3-4 months, and no more than 9.2 lbs per 1k sq. ft. for the most protection.

Is it a good idea to put down a lot during the fall months and dial back some during the spring, or vice versa? I have a smaller yard (4500 sq ft), so Dimension I think is the best and easiest for me.

 

Pre-emergent question...What is the general rule about how much pre-emerge to put down? I recently put down Dimension. The bag noted that 3.5 lbs per 1k square ft. for 2-3 months of protection, 4.0-4.7 lbs per 1k sq. ft for 3-4 months, and no more than 9.2 lbs per 1k sq. ft. for the most protection.

Is it a good idea to put down a lot during the fall months and dial back some during the spring, or vice versa? I have a smaller yard (4500 sq ft), so Dimension I think is the best and easiest for me.

I don't have much experience with Dithiopyr, but you basically just want an active pre-e barrier during the times when weeds are germinating in your area - without exceeding the max annual rate. I apply Prodiamine at the 6mo rate (half the annual max) in September and March.

 

Got it. I applied one bag (12 lbs). With 4500 sq ft, that's around 2.66 lbs per 1k. I think one more bag will be fine and should be good till spring.

 

Is it a good idea to put down a lot during the fall months and dial back some during the spring, or vice versa?

I would go with "verse visa". Spring weeds like crabgrass are tougher to get rid of while not hurting your growing grass, so you want a good barrier down then. Winter weeds are easier to nail because your grass is mostly dormant (in the south) and temps are cooler for cheap solutions like 2-4D. So, even rates during spring and fall are best, imo, but if you are going to go heavy at one point, I'd aim for the spring app to be heavier.

 

What about this? It has the ingredient Sulfentrazone, but not sure if the percentage is enough.
What are y'all still thoughts with MSM as well?

Bonide 16-Ounce Concentrate Sedge Ender Weed Killer - 069 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MVFSOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TqNZzbGGHMHNS