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Another I'm Building a Putting Green Post!

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23K views 79 replies 17 participants last post by  CarolinaCuttin  
#1 ·
I know there are so many posts this fall detailing everyone's putting green construction, but it won't hurt to have one more so we can all learn from each other! :D



I started by marking out the green and tee space and spraying it with a combo of glyphosate and diquat. The green is approximately 2500 square feet and the tee is about 500 square feet. I then tilled the soil a few weeks later in multiple directions to loosen it up and shred any plant material that was there. I graded the tee with a gentle slope (1-2 percent) to provide adequate surface drainage and then sprigged it on 8/23 with 419 bermuda that will be overseeded this fall with perennial ryegrass. More on that below. After tilling the green in multiple directions, I did some rough grading that provided a few soft and interesting contours but without leaving any low lying areas in the green itself. This weekend the plan is to get a few thousand pounds of sand tilled into the existing soil to improve drainage and dilute the organic matter. I will follow this up with detail grading and if the weather holds up I hope to seed it with Penncross creeping bentgrass as soon as the surface is prepared. I will update this post with pictures and additional information about the project. I'll be making the first cut at 0.200" approximately 2 weeks after the seed goes down and will slowly drop it down to putting green height as it matures and increases in density. Mowing with a JD 220B with a grooved front roller. I will be applying weekly foliar fertilizer sprays during the growing season.

August 23rd, 2020:

The soil on the tee has been sitting undisturbed for about 3 weeks, so I roughed up the top layer with a metal rake before putting the sprigs down. I covered them with a light layer of peat moss and then pressed them in with the tires of my riding John Deere mower. Irrigation is an oscillating sprinkler that turns on for 20 minutes every four hours. Planning to apply foliar fertilizer as soon as the sprigs start to tack down, probably 4-7 days. I'll update with details of the mix later.





 
#8 ·
@Betterthanmyneighbor No quirks that I know of, I've been using JD fixed head mowers for almost 3 years now and if you just take care of them with common sense they will perform fantastic for you.

@RussellJ @HoosierLawnGnome Great to have you two along!

8/28 and 8/29:

Got the sand tilled in and the surface leveled off. I was able to seed Friday evening and get the water going immediately after. I'm using two impact sprinklers on a splitter/timer and I'm able to get full coverage of the green which is great. Water is running for 20 minutes each station every 6 hours. Hopefully we'll see some bentgrass popping up towards the end of this week. I spread a touch of Milorganite on the green before seeding to give it around 0.3 lbs N to get going when it starts to pop up.

8/30: Checking on the green shows that this is the perfect amount of water, it stops just as the water is starting to film up on the surface. Drainage is great, there is no puddling anywhere even when I run extra water, the surface drainage is going to get water off the green fast even during strong rains. The only issue I see so far is the very slight uneveness of the surface. I'm going to dummy roll the green a few times with the mower before I actually put the first cut on it so that the ground isn't shifting beneath me. I left the top 1/4" of soil loose so that the seed could nestle in and not wash away. If I need to do some fine leveling I can go aggressive and bury it in sand or I can topdress heavily every week for a month and get the desired sand output. I'm not sure what I'll decide to do, if the grass can handle it I would love to bury it in sand to prevent scalping as I walk down the HOC this fall.

Gave the sprigged tee a good soil booster spray:

20-20-20 @ 1 lb/M
Soaker Plus @ 4 oz/M
Humic12 @ 6 oz/M
RGS @ 6 oz/M

My work is probably done for the next few days, I'm going to enjoy this time and get the mower ground and tuned up for the mowing season.



Tilling sand into the profile



Green after final leveling and seeding
 
#11 ·
Well, it's officially one week after putting the seed down. We got a huge thunderstorm two days after I seeded, so the uniformity of the stand isn't great, but I honestly thought it would be worse. The surface drainage of the green is excellent, the water isn't sitting on the green surface, it is quickly running off. Unfortunately, that means it is prone to washing out during intense rains as I try to grow the grass.

There is grass almost everywhere even if it is too thin or thick in some areas. Bentgrass is such a tiny seed and the plant really doesn't have much energy, it's got enough to sprout up and that's about it, but it is enjoying the cooler weather that has just hit the Carolinas. I went out and spot seeded thin areas and backed off the irrigation a little, but it is still enough to get grass to grow. My main goal for September is to get grass everywhere I want it, once October hits I can begin to feed the bentgrass and push it to grow and thicken up. Other than the light shot of Milo at seeding, this green probably wont get any food for 3 more weeks when I'll hit it with the first fungicide/foliar fert spray.

Forecast for the next week is cooler and drier than the previous weeks, so it should be ideal for germinating bentgrass in these thin areas.



Notice the green hue, the leaf is so thin on new bentgrass that unless you seed at a high rate its not going to be apparent from far away.



Up close example of an area that is thin but has been reseeded.
 
#12 ·
Multiple days with isolated thunderstorm chances and warm nighttime temperatures means it's time for the first systemic fungicide spray, so I'm going to go ahead and throw some other goodies in the tank with it. Also turning off the water until I can see what's going to happen. Will update with pictures this weekend to see how the spray does!

Soaker Plus @ 4 oz/M
AzProp Select @ 3 oz/M
20-20-20 @ 0.75 lbs/M
Largo @ 3 oz/M
Perk Up @ 3 oz/M
Protesyn @ 6 oz/M
Turf Mark Blue @ 1.5 oz/gal
 
#14 ·
@DbShep I've been just busy enough to keep working on the green but neglect posting updates. It's been a bumpy first month of grow in, but I think I've finally gotten past the big hurdles. I'll still probably spot seed an area or two, but overall I'm now pretty happy with the amount of grass on the green and I'm confident that I can grow it in from here with an aggressive spray program.

I had washout after washout, ran into some unevenness in the green surface from settling of sand, and couldn't get it to dry out enough to mow as much as I wanted. I did plenty of fungicide sprays during the critical development period when it was hot and humic but never saw any disease pop up, so mission accomplished. I haven't had any pest issues apart from some worm castings, but since it is a native clay soil green I'm happy to have the worms around. I just use a soft bristled broom on them before I mow so I don't leave quarter sized pancakes that end up killing grass.

The 10-day forecast is perfect bentgrass weather, highs in the 70s and lows around 50 and not a drop of rain in sight. I should finally have the chance to let the green dry out to the point that it needs irrigation.

I brought the edge of the green in slightly so allow for about 20 inches of collar to surround the green. This will help give it that golf course look. It will be maintained at 0.500"

Today (10/1/20) I gave everything a double cut (it was long!) in prep for a heavy topdressing tomorrow. I picked up a half yard of sand that I will be applying tomorrow afternoon. This should really help level out any low areas, and I'm prepared to do it again if needed. Plan in to use the rotary spreader wide open and go over as many times as I think it needs.

I also made another spray application today after the mow to keep the plant growing at this super fast pace. I added a foliar phosphite into the rotation every 7 days as a preventative for pythium, and today was the day to add that. I doubt I'll need to use a true fungicide for the rest of the year but they are ready in case we get some crazy weather. The next spray will probably be Sunday (10/4/20) if the sand is settled enough to allow for a foliar spray. It will be back to the Perk Up, Protesyn, and Knife Plus in addition to urea.

Spray today:

Urea @ 0.43 lbs/M
Phite 0-0-26 @ 3 oz/M
Blue Dye @ 1.5 oz/gal



5 passes with the mower and I had half a basket full of clippings!



Post mow, shining in the sun



After the spray
 
#15 ·




PRG tee was no issue to get established, this is after the 2nd mow. A little over two weeks since seeding, very happy with progress. Small patches of pythium in one area that I'm not going to treat because it's going to get cold quickly, it'll dry up on its own and I can fill in with divot mix.

Green continues to make progress, biggest issue right now are earthworm castings, I have to scout and do a good job of brushing and blowing them before mowing or else I leave quarter sized mud pies that choke out the bentgrass. I love the earthworms on my native soil, they provide free aerification so it's just something I'll deal with.

Green and tee got sprayed today.

Green:

Knife Plus @ 3 oz/M
Perk Up @ 3 oz/M
Protesyn @ 6 oz/M

Tee got Largo instead of Knife and I added 0.15 lbs N from urea. One more good month of growth before we get a serious slowdown, big push to get this filled in!
 
#17 ·
SOLARSUPLEX said:
Whats the distance from tee to green on this one?

I'm not keeping my grass at putting height but earthworms are going crazy on my lawn this fall as well. You just brush them away and then mow?
It's about 40 yards, nothing huge just a pitch and putt area. I'm sure I'll spend more time maintaining it than playing on it, but my two favorite hobbies are growing grass and playing golf!

Yeah so my procedure is to take a soft-bristled shop broom and brush the green, sometimes in two directions if the castings are bad, and then blow the area clean. Then I can mow without messing up the surface or dulling the mower.

On golf course putting greens, a good blow is all that is required to disperse the casting, but on my heavy clay soil it needs to be broken up with a broom first.
 
#18 ·
It's nice going through this thread. I started researching the type of sand that golf courses use and that was like a rabbit hole which led me to a simplified document by the USGA for greens creation. It was great to see the process, though I am sure there are quite a few secrets. I was amazed at the root zone soil profile and how 60% is supposed to be 0.25-1mm sand. The bigger stuff was classified as fine gravel (>2mm or very coarse sand.

Also the intrececies of things like angle of drainage pipes was amazing to read.
 
#19 ·
uts said:
It's nice going through this thread. I started researching the type of sand that golf courses use and that was like a rabbit hole which led me to a simplified document by the USGA for greens creation. It was great to see the process, though I am sure there are quite a few secrets. I was amazed at the root zone soil profile and how 60% is supposed to be 0.25-1mm sand. The bigger stuff was classified as fine gravel (>2mm or very coarse sand.

Also the intrececies of things like angle of drainage pipes was amazing to read.
It is certainly a specialized method/process. It would be great if I had a sand base, the clay just holds so much moisture after heavy rains. Once I get coverage the way I like it, I will begin to do some sand leveling to allow me to gradually drop the height.
 
#21 ·
Kallgren said:
Subscribed. My Bentgrass green got a few inches of snow today. Was looking pretty good.
I'm hoping I've got a good month of decent weather and I'm sure there will be warm days from December-February.

I saw you sprayed Trimec on your green, what kind was it? I ordered some Trimec Classic for some broadleaf weeds and wanted to know what your experience was.
 
#22 ·


Here is a picture of my green taken a couple of weeks ago. It is about 1300 sq ft and I put down 14 metric tonnes of sand and tilled it into about 2" of soil before seeding on May 20th. I finally was able to putt on it in October though I am still dealing with damage from cut worms that is slowly growing in. Dew worms have been a big problem for the past couple months and I finally broke down and applied Sevin liquid just to the green area to slow them down. I applied 50ml diluted in about 1.5 gallons of water and the treatment lasts about 3-4 weeks before castings get bad again. Next week looks like warm weather up here, then it will be time to put it to bed for the winter. It's been a very fun project in these crazy times.
 
#23 ·
@DbShep That is a gorgeous green and background. Well done, sir.

I should have done more soil prep, the amount of sand I tilled in wasn't nearly enough. The green still holds a ton of moisture, when it's dry it's firm as a brick but once it gets wet it takes a week to fully dry. The next week here is forecast to by cool and dry with highs from 55-70 and lows 35-50. Should be fantastic growing weather, and I'll be able to dry everything down.

Did you do a snow mold application?
 
#24 ·
CarolinaCuttin said:
@DbShep That is a gorgeous green and background. Well done, sir.

I should have done more soil prep, the amount of sand I tilled in wasn't nearly enough. The green still holds a ton of moisture, when it's dry it's firm as a brick but once it gets wet it takes a week to fully dry. The next week here is forecast to by cool and dry with highs from 55-70 and lows 35-50. Should be fantastic growing weather, and I'll be able to dry everything down.

Did you do a snow mold application?
For what it's worth, my green gets pretty firm when it is dry as well. My gut is that this is due to a lack of thatch to act as cushion. Most 'new' construction greens at local courses tend to play firm for a couple years and my thought is that it is related to a low amount of thatch but it could also be that over time the coring and top dressing changes the surface profile. Not sure, but time will tell.

I haven't done a snow mold application yet but will be doing one in the next couple of weeks. Oddly, we are getting upwards of 4" of snow tonight in a lake effect squall, but the rest of the week is forecast to be 14 - 17 degrees C with sun. So...one last hurrah before our golf courses shut down.

If you can find someone local to do a core aeration next spring, you can fill the holes with sand and that will change your surface rather drastically. If I recall, a core aeration will allow you to replace roughly 20% of your surface.

One other tip I may add. If your soil profile is heavy on clay, you might think about installing the practice green depth cups as it is hard to put a regulation depth cup in a clay based green. I went with the 4" depth cups and I am happy I did so.

Here is the view currently from my back door.....(yuck!)