It will loosen up the dirt for sure, but what is your end goal? Tilling is going to tear up your turf and make it lumpy, bumpy, uneven and so forth. Not to mention you are going to be disturbing a ton of weed seeds by dragging those tines in the dirt.

If aeration is not an option and you believe your soil is compacted, perhaps check out soil conditioners. They can be as simple as using baby soap all the way up to the Green County NXT product line. I use baby soap and buy the humic acid and kelp dry. Mix myself and apply with hose-end sprayer. Ill also add a pinch of unsulfured blackstrap molasses to give the microbes a snack.

 

Let's start with the problem. Why do you want to aerate/till?

 

If you have a way to pull it, tow-behind aerators can typically be found fairly inexpensively ($100 or so where I am) on Craigslist.

 

I don't have the means to pull it. I'm considering a tiller to patch small areas instead of doing the whole yard. Cost and convenience are factors. I'm curious if a tiller will work well on a patch, say 50-100 sq ft, that I've mowed down to the bone.

 

The most effective method for soil aeration is through "heave" action. For 50-100 sq feet, (or more if you're industrious) I suggest you purchase and use a spade fork https://www.lowes.com/pd/Truper-22-in-L-Wood-Handle-Steel-Spading-Fork/1000377433 and to use it see this video starting at 4:35: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iY-MY9pecQ

 

@Ridgerunner you have really piqued my interest with the heave method. It seems like an inexpensive and practical way of addressing smaller areas.
What about using the heave method in areas with established turf? Does it harm existing grass (e.g., pull up roots)?

 

@social port I have experienced no lasting harm to existing turf, but like all aggressive cultivation techniques, care should be exercised (e.g. do it when turf is actively growing in Fall or Spring, fertilize to aid recovery, and water.) and the techniques used shouldn't be so aggressive as to separate the turf from the soil--it's just a small "heave" action. R. Carrow did a study on mechanical compaction relief in the late 80s. Over-simplified, the study found heave/pitchfork action (using a Verti-drain) was the most effective, followed by the fracture method (Aero-vator- see GCI turf videos where he used it on established turf) followed by core aeration, etc. Also determined was improvement/necessity to use more than one technique, at least initially, for improved compaction relief.
For a visual of the Verti-drain/pitchfork method action:

For some further reading on the topic to aid you in weighing the + and - and comming to your own conclusions:
https://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/gcnew/article/1994feb15c.pdf
http://www.commercialturfandtractor.com/Everything%20You.pdf
http://sturf.lib.msu.edu/page/1988may21-30.pdf

 

Might I suggest just renting a core aerator. Usually 75 bucks for a weekend. Self propelled and does it right.

 

Let's start with the problem. Why do you want to aerate/till?

This is the all-important first question.

Personally, I think that unless there is significant mechanical compaction from something heavy being driven on the lawn or severe people traffic (like a regularly-used walking path) that there is no need for mechanical aeration on home lawns.

The most effective method for soil aeration is through "heave" action. For 50-100 sq feet, (or more if you're industrious) I suggest you purchase and use a spade fork ...

+1. This is by far the best way that I have used personally. I've done this after heavy vehicles (dump truck delivering soil or rock, a septic tank truck, etc.) have driven across the lawn in just the tire tracks. I've also used a manual core aerator in those cases, but I think the spading fork is better.

Just to provide a little more background, I used to regularly do core aeration. However, my past experiences combined with reading of experiences here has led me to be a no-aeration guy except for cases of significant mechanical compaction (e.g. the dump truck mentioned above.)

Core aeration is likely to provide lots of places for weed seeds to germinate that you'll be better off without. It also can spread some troublesome weedy grasses like poa trivialis.

My personal approach now is to test the soil, provide what the soil test says is needed, and add lots of biosolid fertilizer (Milorganite or Bay State, etc.) for nitrogen and general good health. Earthworms will explode in your lawn and provide all the aeration you could possibly need without inspiring lots of new weeds.

 

There is no "need" for a lot of things some of us do on a home lawn. But there is benefit to most of those things.

 

[/quote]@Ridgerunner Thanks for that information and perspective, in addition to those articles. Very reader-friendly. I've now purchased a fork and am going to spend some time using it this week.

@Cjames1603 Thanks for the input! I've managed to avoid mechanical aeration up to this point, but I am always looking for alternatives. There is a percentage of us who associate core aeration with bringing up weed seeds, and the practice is viewed as a kind of last resort. I'm in that percentage, for that reason primarily.

MasterMech wrote: ↑Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:03 pm
Let's start with the problem. Why do you want to aerate/till?
This is the all-important first question.

That was the first point made by Bob Carrow as well, a researcher in some of the documents that Ridgerunner linked.

Personally, I think that unless there is significant mechanical compaction from something heavy being driven on the lawn or severe people traffic (like a regularly-used walking path) that there is no need for mechanical aeration on home lawns.

That's my approach as well. I had heavy machinery on parts of the lawn this spring. Amazingly, the grass recovered well, but some areas are still pretty compacted. I'm looking to help them out a little. I also have areas scattered through the lawn where, I assume, drainage is a problem. These areas tend to have a little moss (no pH problem), and the soil there just doesn't look healthy.

My personal approach now is to test the soil, provide what the soil test says is needed, and add lots of biosolid fertilizer (Milorganite or Bay State, etc.) for nitrogen and general good health. Earthworms will explode in your lawn and provide all the aeration you could possibly need without inspiring lots of new weeds.

Thanks for sharing what is working for you. Maybe I should add some Milorganite :mrgreen: I'm looking at a combination of things. Now that I've been turned on to the idea, I'll be using a fork and putting some compost down. I have also been making applications with N Ext air-8 and RGS this summer. I'll be supplementing with humic when I begin fertilizing this fall. I'm not sure that the humic will help with compaction per se, but it sure won't hurt anything.

 

Home Depot wants $90 for 24h where I am
Called few companies around they will come and do the Airrating for $$70 they just want me to mark the sprinkler heads with some flags. I'm sure if you give the guy a tip he do maybe 2 passes as well.
No delivery or pickup to worry about