Well, you're going to need a motor driven mower to get that down. Manual reel after u get it under control and cut cut closer to 1/2" off

Equipment forum has some more info ....Honda, toro, club cadet?

I (imo)wouldn't toss any seed ....until the basics are under control

 

Hi @Lostinthelawn.

My suggestions are based on having a seeded common bermuda and not a hybrid sod type variety. I'm not an expert, but these basics helped to improve my yard before moving on to try other improvements.

Please know you'll only be able to do so much with your situation before our Az "summer grass" slows/stops growing and having "winter" grass becomes an option.

My suggestion is to start simple. Get a gas rotary mower (new/used whatever fits the budget) with a bag that has as low of a cut that you can find (3/4" to 1" is fine).

Right now, our temps are still such that if you spray out the weeds you'll probably take a chunk of the grass with it. If you simply scalp the lawn removing as much of everything as possible you'll have a portion of the weed "base" left, but put "less stress" on the grass you have. That will give you a little better chance of some recovery before temps drop and more suited for "winter" grass.

If it were me, I'd scalp/bag it and try to give the grass a fighting chance before "winter".

Watering is a total "Goldilocks" scenario. You'll need to find that "just right" amount. The popular general recommendation is a baseline avg of 1" of watering per week. That amount may need to be less, may be more depending on your conditions. Watering should be "deep and infrequent", but there are variables to that and you may need to build up to doing it. Root depth, temperature, and sun exposure are some of the factors that will effect frequency and amounts. Ultimately you will want to water enough to wet the soil just past the root zone, then give the soil a chance to dry so the root mass can breathe before watering again. Many recommendations are 3-5 days between. As the grass has better roots and they grow deeper, you can water a little deeper and less frequent.

Until you get a soil test, I'd suggest something like Arizona's Best All Purpose Lawn Fertilizer 16-16-16 from Home Depot.

●Mow as low as you can go. Removing all the clippings.
●Apply fertilizer (I suggest spoon feeding (smaller weekly doses) once a week vs all at once per month).
●Water accordingly.

The next mow, raise the mower 1 notch. I suggest 1"-1.5" as this will be near the median cut height for many "residential" bermudas. Less cut stress, plenty of leaf to collect sun and produce food, good height to match growth rate and cut frequency w/o violating the 1/3 cut rule. Try to mow the same day you plan to water.

Figure out a routine like:
•mow, fert water . . . .
•wait 3 days.
•(probably won't need to mow this time), water.
•wait 3 days.
•mow, fert, water
• wait 3 days
• mow, water
•wait 3 days
•mow, fert, water
etc etc etc

I'd do this til dormant or if you decide to overseed with winter grass. Then there are steps to do for those options as well to set you up for better grass next season.

Feel free to holler if you have any questions. Again not an expert, but maybe I'll know something that will help.

 

@Lostinthelawn I think you have three goals.

Kill Weeds:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/BioAdvanced-Season-Long-Weed-32-fl-oz-Weed-Killer/50243349
This not only kills weeds but has isoxaben to prevent broadleaf weeds in the future. Will have to wait until temps are below 90F to spray.

Prevent Weeds:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotts-WeedEx-Prevent-with-Halts-5M/1001351512
Apply in next few weeks and again by March 1st to prevent broadleaf and grassy weeds.
https://turf.arizona.edu/Turf%20Tips%20%202015-forward/vol%201%20basic%20preemergence%20weed%20control%20in%20lawns.pdf

Find a mower to meet your needs and cut lawn regularly:
My recommendation is a mower that is self propelled. Makes mowing in the summer tolerable.
Look for sales as this is getting close to the end of the season.

 

I would take a slightly different approach here.

The first question I would ask is what do you want your lawn to be? You just looking for a nice lawn, do you even enjoy lawn care? Are you fanatical about it...etc.

How serious and how in depth I would go would honestly really depend on the answer to those questions. (I'm not looking for those answers, just saying ask yourself.)

I think it's been established you need a rotary mower. Small gas or battery powered? You're starting from scratch so dealer's choice there. Small Gas will most likely have an advantage in suction power. Battery powered will have an advantage in well, being battery.

I wouldn't deal with the weeds this year. You're approaching the end of the growing season, a lot of that will die off when it gets cold. I'd start with some basics:

-Get a soil Test
-Get on Greencast to figure out when the best time to put a pre-M down would be
-Maybe a small balanced fertilizer app before the season closes.
-Irrigation Audit
-Develop a plan for next year

I know all those things aren't fixing the lawn today, but lawns are more of a marathon then a sprint. I'd rather see someone in your situation take it slow and make good plans and start developing good habits to close this season. That allows you to hit next season in spring ahead of the game.

Nothing above said by anybody was wrong or bad advice, just giving some ideas on a different approach. Cheers!

 

Wow thank you so much everyone. I really do appreciate all of the advice and help. I guess before I do anything I need to find a new mower and go from there.