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2019 Fall Nitrogen

47K views 220 replies 69 participants last post by  npompei  
#1 ·
The fall season is almost here. We are getting some below average temperatures and the lawns should start to recover from the summer heat. We are not out of the woods yet but the longer range forecast looks good.

The Fall nitrogen program is explained in the Fall Nitrogen Blitz. The latest research continues to point that the next two month are the most important ones.

  • You should start to get your nitrogen source. Search local places, talk to the local members in the home town thread. Save some $$ and buy it local. Urea is the cheapest source of N at around $15-$20 for 25lb of N (in a 50lb of urea).
  • Since the weather is nicer, I actually already started giving the lawn some slower release sources just to wake it up.
  • We get this question a lot: "I'm overseeding, can I also do a lot of nitrogen?" The answer is: I dont really know of any research around it. I think most members have done it with success.
  • Overseed or not overseed? - I'm of the opinion that most cool season mix lawns do not need an overseed. They need the nitrogen to recover and get thick, but an overseed is not really needed. Of course if you had areas with fungus (PB) that killed it, or severe drought, then you will need to overseed. Again, just my opinion from my no mix lawn and all the common areas from the HOA that never get an overseed.
  • POA a - POA a does die in the summer under some conditions. It mainly involves heat stress from temperature and drought. If you keep your lawn irrigated and green thru the summer, it will survive. This year we had a rainy summer, so that helps it survive more. You will need to kill it or hand pull it this year.

    Further POA a drops seed that germinate in the fall as soil temperature drop. You want to apply a prem around August to help prevent it. The spring prem normally wears out around August. A split app of prodiamine in the spring does help but it will still wear out. If POA a is not a problem in your lawn, then skip it.
  • Fungus - GLS could start soon, but only one confirmed case in NJ so far. Great info in this OSU turf [https://vimeo.com/351668886]video[/url].

Here is the 8-14 day temp map:
Image
 
#4 ·
Miggity said:
@SNOWBOB11 , I also prefer AMS with my high pH soil, but be aware of the salt index of AMS being double that of urea and increasing the risk of both fertilizer burn and salt buildup in the soil at blitz rates. My plan is to alternate urea and AMS during the blitz. I wish you nothing but the best lawn in all of Ontario. :nod: :thumbup:
Very true. Good thought.
 
#6 ·
Hey guys, I am pretty new here and just starting to get into wanting a really nice lawn vs just throwing down some Scott's products like I used to.

Can someone please explain what the difference is between let's say a 24-0-0 and 46-0-0 if you still go by the recommended rate? It seems like they always end up mathing out to roughly 1lbs per 1k sq ft. This is also if it is the same nitrogen source as urea nitrogen. I just have noticed that the higher nitrogen tends to be a smaller bag or more sq ft per bag. sorry if this is explained elsewhere, but I could not find it.

I am looking into doing the fall nitrogen blitz and I see a 46-0-0 recommend, but I cannot find that anywhere. The closest I can find locally is a 24-0-4 urea nitrogen bag at tractor supply.
 
#7 ·
@BobRoss 24-0-0 Ammonium Sulfate (AS) will have a quicker uptake compared to 46-0-0 Urea (*some please correct me if I'm wrong). AS is slightly more expensive source of N, although if you buy a 40+ lb bag, it's a wash in my opinion. AS will also get an more even/consistence coverage (*when putting down the same lbs of Nitrogen), since you will put down ~double the amount of product/prills compared to Urea. There are other things, but that's my stab at it.
 
#8 ·
NoslracNevok said:
@BobRoss 24-0-0 Ammonium Sulfate (AS) will have a quicker uptake compared to 46-0-0 Urea (*some please correct me if I'm wrong). AS is slightly more expensive source of N, although if you buy a 40+ lb bag, it's a wash in my opinion. AS will also get an more even/consistence coverage (*when putting down the same lbs of Nitrogen), since you will put down ~double the amount of product/prills compared to Urea. There are other things, but that's my stab at it.
I think you are correct on the AS being more plant available quicker based on what Matt Martin has mentioned on the live streams. Urea needs to volatize from a solid to a gas to become plant available.
 
#9 ·
Actually, this is 24% Urea and not ammonium Sulfate and that is why I was wondering if a 24 vs 46 is any different besides the amount of product need to be thrown down.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/groundwork-lawn-food-24-0-4?cm_vc=-10005

I have not seen any Ammonium Sulfate locally yet.
 
#12 ·
BobRoss said:
Actually, this is 24% Urea and not ammonium Sulfate and that is why I was wondering if a 24 vs 46 is any different besides the amount of product need to be thrown down.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/groundwork-lawn-food-24-0-4?cm_vc=-10005

I have not seen any Ammonium Sulfate locally yet.
I am guessing the 24% urea is coated to control the release, or has some other product in it since straight urea is 46%. In the fall blitz you want it all to be quick release to I would get the 46% rated urea.
 
#13 ·
@BobRoss All mentioned so far...and so much more. If you are a beginner, in order not to get lost (I did), just pick a full year plan with specific products available to you and stick to it...while learning.
Here is what I have chosen for my all around fertilizer. I am giving only as an example to demonstrate how Nitrogen is divided to tens of types. Urea coated(polymer coated, sulphur coated...), not coated, WIN (water insoluble) methylene urea (UMAXX) etc etc. Foliar or soil app or hybrid, particle size for spreader control (SGN number). The list is long.
Dont forget also there are Calcium and all micros on top. Plus soil bio activity....Bottom line, start simple and learn.
http://www.oscturf.com/userContent/documents/24-6-12_TS.pdf
 
#14 ·
@BobRoss I suggest you look for a fast release nitrogen source. The TS product is a coated urea with a slow release. It gives you a delay effect to the feeding. You can use it, but keep the slow release in mind. The idea is to feed the lawn now. Check in the home town folder. Someone from MN should know where to get it. You will find it at places that sell to farmers.
 
#17 ·
BobRoss said:
Hey guys, I am pretty new here and just starting to get into wanting a really nice lawn vs just throwing down some Scott's products like I used to.

Can someone please explain what the difference is between let's say a 24-0-0 and 46-0-0 if you still go by the recommended rate? It seems like they always end up mathing out to roughly 1lbs per 1k sq ft. This is also if it is the same nitrogen source as urea nitrogen. I just have noticed that the higher nitrogen tends to be a smaller bag or more sq ft per bag. sorry if this is explained elsewhere, but I could not find it.

I am looking into doing the fall nitrogen blitz and I see a 46-0-0 recommend, but I cannot find that anywhere. The closest I can find locally is a 24-0-4 urea nitrogen bag at tractor supply.
There is nothing wrong with "throwing some scottts products" like you used to. You can have a great lawn with just store bought products. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
 
#18 ·
@NewLawnJon urea needs urease to become plant available nitrogen. Urease is in the soil. It is a fairly fast process. AS is already in a plant available form.

Votalization would be when the nitrogen from the urea becomes a gas and goes into the atmosphere (lost). It can happen if the urea is not watered in and it sit humid for a while. The percent lost is fairly small and not something to worry about in the fall with all the rains/dew. Farmers do worry about it in the summer because it is $$ lost.
 
#19 ·
Where is everyone getting their Ammonium Sulfate from? I can't find anything locally... I have some high pH soil too and like the idea of alternating urea and AS. Looks like you can get some Greenway Biotech stuff for $40 for 25lb bag on Amazon... I assume that would work fine but seems pricey for my feet needs. I just can't find anywhere.
 
#21 ·
I am a newbie here. Does anyone just go to an agricultural fertilizer plant and buy urea from them? I have fertilizer plant close buy and they will sell me granular urea or premixed npk in bags in different ratios. They would do a custom blend as well for a larger order. Would this be a good idea?
 
#25 ·
Ok, I found Scotts Pro Lawn Fert 26-0-3. It is 12.2% Ammoniacal nitrogen and 7.6% Urea at a local fleet farm. Is Ammoniacal Nitrogen the same as AS? I live in Northern Minnesota in small rural area so the hometown folder does not help. I checked fleet supply, fleet farm and tractor supply. I also checked some of the small farm stores, but they are so small and don't carry any lawn supplies.
 
#26 ·
BobRoss said:
Ok, I found Scotts Pro Lawn Fert 26-0-3. It is 12.2% Ammoniacal nitrogen and 7.6% Urea at a local fleet farm. Is Ammoniacal Nitrogen the same as AS? I live in Northern Minnesota in small rural area so the hometown folder does not help. I checked fleet supply, fleet farm and tractor supply. I also checked some of the small farm stores, but they are so small and don't carry any lawn supplies.
I normally don't go all out and start calling places for people but since you're a Minnesotan like myself, I thought I'd try. I called a local co-op in Thief River Falls and they gave me a number to a co-op in Goodridge (20 mins away?) that has Urea fertilizer. I tried calling them but didn't get an answer. I figured you could do the rest of the work from here. You're supposed to ask for Mishawn when you call. 218-378-4185. Good luck!