Do you have irrigation?

Looks like it's still waking up to me. You can see green in your last photo around the rocks and bare soil which I would imagine get warmer than the lawn. Maybe you've got a warm season lawn and not cool season?

We've just gotten a green up here in central NJ in the past week or so. Still cool at night. 5 Day soil temp is 56*F

 

"We've just gotten a green up here in central NJ in the past week or so. Still cool at night. 5 Day soil temp is 56*F "
Where are you getting your data regarding the soil temperature? I have thought about getting a soil thermometer but if I can get it from a reliable source, I would rather do that.

 

What kind of grass is this, have you done any soil tests recently

 

have you put down any fertilizer in the past 6 years?

 

Thank you all.. Here's the answers:
I put a lot of fertilizer and this year i hired a company to do the 6 treatment thing.. I do have irrigation.. I know for sure i have issue because non of my neighbors turned on water and their lawn already green
I honestly not sure what kind of grass i have .. I also did lawn test last year and here's the results

 

I know for sure i have issue because non of my neighbors turned on water and their lawn already green

I think there are a lot of possible reasons for this but it could be that you just have a different type of grass than your front neighbors. Looks like the neighbors on the same side of the street as you is similar? Is your front neighbors front yard facing south ? (Warmer, more light)
Edit: Does your lawn eventually get green?

I have something similar here in the sense that for a couple of years, I'm always super late to green up. All my neighbors are already green and are not even caring for it. But, in the end of the season, fall and entering winter, I have the best looking lawn. It annoys me a bit but I feel it's in part because I have a Tall Fescue grass that I renovated and they probably have KBG and tons of weeds and undesirable grass types. I also know I have deficiency in Potassium and have difficulty raising it - I don't know if it cause be also part of the slow greenup.

 

Thanks .. but i see some neighbor on my own side with greener lawn as well..

What would be the best action plan for me right now? i want it to get green

 

You'll need to get an ID on your grass type for anyone to comment.

If its zoysia, that color would be normal till it warms up more.

Early greenup is mostly related to grass type, soil temps and moisture level. Can give it a kickoff with a hit of nitrogen once it wakes up to help it along.

Irrigation would be my #1. Then fertilization with some Monoammonium Phosphate for the year would bring up your phosphorous levels and couldn't hurt, even though your grass is already established. A routine with nitrogen fertilizer weekly or biweekly would be a must, probably using urea since your ph is good. A 50lb bag of Sulfate of Potassium spread thru the year to pull up your potassium level if you wanted to splurge. Nothing too critical there though since your soil test looks decent, other than putting down nitrogen routinely.

Before winter at the end of this year nitrogen blitz it, than cut it low.

 

as noted, early green up depends on grass type and varietal, temps, and sunlight levels. I'm not northern NJ and my Rye (which gets baked with good light most of the day) is just starting to grow. My fescue (both the good light and the semi shaded) just greened up the past week. You're a solid week north in latitude. And if you have a slow greening grass that would explain a lot. Water isn't actually as critical in the spring for green up assuming there is at least a little moisture in the soil (which there should be after winter). The neighbors on your side of the street are similar in color so not surprising. Your soil test is a little low on things, but nothing critical that says 'dead grass'.

You just need a little bit of PtNC.

 

Thanks guys…. You know a lot more than I do.. I’m planning to do a round of Dethatching this weekend to help remove any dead grass (please let me know if I shouldn’t ).
Does it hurt if I add thin layer of topsoil then overseed on top of it??

 

Spring is not the time to overseed you got plenty of grass there.

Just have to figure out what kind of grass it is before you start throwing too much time and money into it.

I've got property in the Catskills and they are always a solid month behind in the spring and a month faster in the fall compared to my home here in New Jersey. Right now everything is mostly green in NJ, trees are budding and blooming. In the Catskills everything looks like your lawn.

As far as dethatch I wouldn't do that until it wakes up.

 

How did it look in the summer /fall?

You had the same issue last year. if it is a warm season grass it would have looked good in June / July / August.

https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/sod-lawn-issue-help-please.50161/

 

Thanks.. last year I had to dethatch twice after the company I hired to do treatment came and said you have to dethatch as they cannot add any product before I dethatch so I had to do that and then toward the end of the year it was getting green, but not super green, but it was getting greener than that

 

Any photos from after May of last year? Your other thread stops with photos then.

 

You should bring up all the stuff that's low according to your test, low potasium cam make grass yellow looking. You can get all you need from anywhere fairly cheap. You will have to test again a month or so after you apply stuff.

Water and apply nitrogen as normal, if the neighbors got decent grass then it's your soil most likely.

Get what you got going before you worry about top dressing or overseeding. Even if you did it most likely your new grass won't do much better.

 

Here’s my photo from last year first week of August
Also, what is the best product to increase potassium?

 

Here’s my photo from last year first week of August
Also, what is the best product to increase potassium?

I'm not a cool season guy but I can tell you nutrition likely isn't your problem. Your soil test proves you have enough nutrition. Ignore the "optimal" bs, all of your levels are above deficient which is all you need. Your iron and aluminum is actually a little high, don't add more of either. Ignore the recommendation above to spread all that potassium sulfate. Applying more than 1 lb per 1,000 square feet of potassium in a year can actually have a detrimental effect on turf health. Your turf has sufficient sulfur so you don't need more of that either.

Potassium is rarely needed. Your turf clearly has a sufficient amount, in fact outside of a few places in Florida potassium levels are sufficient for turf grass in essentially every location within the United States. Turf doesn't need a whole lot of potassium. You won't see a response to potassium unless you have a confirmed deficiency in the grass tissue itself, which is EXTREMELY RARE even on 95-99% inorganic sand golf greens (Surely your soil is better than that). This is true even if you have deficient levels in the soil. Soil tests even Mehlich III (the best) don't accurately measure potassium in soil so the only way to confirm a deficiency is to learn what a potassium deficiency looks like (Oldest leaf per plant turns yellow from the outside in when newer leafs come in they are green. Won't happen irregularly, would happen on EVERY plant. The potassium is pulled from mature leaves into newer leafs) and confirm it in your turf.

Just put down sufficient nitrogen for your turf type. Use a phone app like Plantnet to ID your turf so you know what that sufficient nitrogen amount is. If you have blue grass it could be 3-5 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, Bermuda likes 4 lbs, zoysia only likes 2 lbs. Your grass goes dormant so you likely have one of those.

Key Knowledge to know: A fertilizer with 20-0-0 like AMS has 20% nitrogen and no phosphorous, or potassium. You'd need to put down 5 lbs of this product to get 1 lb of nitrogen. A fertilizer indiciating 10-10-10 has 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorous and 10% potassium. You'd need to put down 10 lbs of that product to put down a 1lb of nitrogen, 1 lb of phosphorous and 1 lb of potassium. Given your pH is nearly perfect and you shouldn't want to lower it any more given nitrogen absorption decreases as pH drops (AMS will lower your pH), get urea. Urea (48-0-0) is the cheapest form of nitrogen and would be perfect for your yard. You only need to apply 2 lbs of urea per 1,000 square feet to put down 1 lb of nitrogen. Ignore the distinction between fast vs. slow release fertilizers. It's mostly a scam. Urea lasts up to 90 days in turf, "slow" release fertilizers like milorganite last similar time frames and release somewhat slower but almost as quickly (3-14 days vs. 2-3 weeks). Make sure to water in each application to prevent burning. You should never put down more than 1 lb of nitrogen in a single application.

If you want to learn more about turf management and why soil nutrition is often a scam check out Turf epistemology on Youtube. Travis Shaddox has tons of videos where he goes over research papers on topics such as potassium, phosphorous, feeding the soil, humic, etc. If you don't have a lot of time to watch his hour plus long videos on each topic, watch the shorts. Temperature, water, and sunlight will have way more of an impact on your turf than soil nutrition.

Make sure to cut your grass regularly, if you find you're cutting off more than a third of the length of each blade of grass, you're not cutting frequently enough. Consider PGR (i.e. T-nex) which can make your grass greener, more shade tolerant, drought tolerant, denser, healthier, etc. Cut your grass at the appropriate height (You need to know what kind of grass you have to determine this).

 

Take note I revised my post a little since you last read it. Recommend reading it in its current state.

 

I took pictures of my grass and Google says it’s mostly Dallisgrass (see the pictures)

 

Google is lying!

Judging by the pictures, it is more likely to be KBG and TTTF or perhaps PRG (Possibly also warm season grasses that I don't know so well).

Details are important to verify this:

1. Grass with double groove in the center:
KBG: Undersides of leaves slightly shinyVery short ligule, no hairs, rhizomes

2. Grass with many longitudinal veins:
TTTF: Undersides of leaves slightly shiny, almost flat, short hairs on leaf auricles, leaf vernation rolled

PRG: Undersides of leaves keeled, very shiny, leaf vernation folded
both: very short ligules, leaf auricles (not always clearly recognizable), bunch type