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As the title says I am worried about keeping my grass green. San Antonio TX was just put under stage 1 water restriction which happens every summer. I am only allowed to water once a week. I can hand water as many times as I want though.

Reason I am worried is my yard struggles wilth taking in an inch of water at a time and I water twice a week to hit 1-1.5 inches per week. Since I can only do one day, any tips or trick y'all have used to maintain a green lawn.

I am using pgr as well as panterra this summer. I will also be leveling here in a couple weeks if that makes a difference.

Also I have never made it through a summer without my yard starting to brown.
 

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Thats a concern of mine as well. I am not under restrictions currently that I know of, but will be soon I'm sure. I'm watering once a week right now in anticipation. I want to force those roots to go down to get water. I'm running each station for 55 minutes currently using the Hunter MP rotators. Haven't done a full irrigation audit yet so I'm not sure how much thats putting down. Its on my weekend to do list.
 

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Ral1121 said:
As the title says I am worried about keeping my grass green. San Antonio TX was just put under stage 1 water restriction which happens every summer. I am only allowed to water once a week. I can hand water as many times as I want though.

Reason I am worried is my yard struggles wilth taking in an inch of water at a time and I water twice a week to hit 1-1.5 inches per week. Since I can only do one day, any tips or trick y'all have used to maintain a green lawn.

I am using pgr as well as panterra this summer. I will also be leveling here in a couple weeks if that makes a difference.

Also I have never made it through a summer without my yard starting to brown.
What is your current fertilizer schedule?
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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With only 3k you should be able to get at least 1" down in a 24 hour period. This chart from Rachio suggests that even clay has an intake rate of 0.1 in/hr...


Do you have a controller with cycle-soak functionality? How many zones do you have and what is the precipitation rate of each zone?
 

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Get a rachio controller or another controller with an irrigation soak feature. I have a 20 min soak after every cycle . It splits the zone as well and only runs 10 min per zone then that zone is stopped and soak 20min another 10 min run time then another soak 20 ect.. ect... until ive watered for 40 min. Durring the soak time the rachio moves to another zone and does the same for that.
 

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Ridgerunner said:
No direct experience, but studies have shown that using a commercial (golf course targeted) wetting agent ($$) provides discernible improvement in maintaining soil moisture content.
I don't use panterra, but I know that with my WA program, I cannot use one while in a dry period. Does it help me overcome LDS? Yes, but I use a WA in order to push water through the soil profile (Fleet is my WA of choice). Perhaps the science on Panterra is different (I didn't think it was a retainer), but if it pushes water through the profile, I'm not sure I would be using it in conjunction with water restrictions.
 

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viva_oldtrafford said:
Ridgerunner said:
No direct experience, but studies have shown that using a commercial (golf course targeted) wetting agent ($$) provides discernible improvement in maintaining soil moisture content.
I don't use panterra, but I know that with my WA program, I cannot use one while in a dry period. Does it help me overcome LDS? Yes, but I use a WA in order to push water through the soil profile (Fleet is my WA of choice). Perhaps the science on Panterra is different (I didn't think it was a retainer), but if it pushes water through the profile, I'm not sure I would be using it in conjunction with water restrictions.
I'm on thin ice here as I have no experience with WA. I'm just going on my recollection of a study I read, that of course, I can't find now as it must be one of my many dead links. I, too always thought WAs were primarily surfactants and only moved water down and out, but the study indicated that the new WAs also assist in moving water back up into the soil as the top layers dry out, reducing irrigation requirements.
FWIW, here is one link in my library that does work and kind of addresses the issue:
https://www.golfcourseindustry.com/article/gci0414-wetting-agents/
 

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Ridgerunner said:
viva_oldtrafford said:
Ridgerunner said:
No direct experience, but studies have shown that using a commercial (golf course targeted) wetting agent ($$) provides discernible improvement in maintaining soil moisture content.
I don't use panterra, but I know that with my WA program, I cannot use one while in a dry period. Does it help me overcome LDS? Yes, but I use a WA in order to push water through the soil profile (Fleet is my WA of choice). Perhaps the science on Panterra is different (I didn't think it was a retainer), but if it pushes water through the profile, I'm not sure I would be using it in conjunction with water restrictions.
I'm on thin ice here as I have no experience with WA. I'm just going on my recollection of a study I read, that of course, I can't find now as it must be one of my many dead links. I, too always thought WAs were primarily surfactants and only moved water down and out, but the study indicated that the new WAs also assist in moving water back up into the soil as the top layers dry out, reducing irrigation requirements.
FWIW, here is one link in my library that does work and kind of addresses the issue:
https://www.golfcourseindustry.com/article/gci0414-wetting-agents/
https://www.harrells.com/education/understanding-wetting-agents-and-how-to-use-them-2

These guys produce Fleet. Pretty good info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
These other problem is I do not have an in ground sprinkler system.

@Redtenchu

I put out milorganite once a month and then spray fas weekly at a nitrogen rate of .25 lbs per 1000.

@Ware @Tellycoleman

I do not have a sprinkler system so I do not have a controller. I am thinking I will be able to hand water the front but the back I can run my above ground system which I don't have a controller for.

@viva_oldtrafford

Why ditch the panterra? Does it not help even water distribution. As well as help keep water in the soil? If not is there a better product for me to use?

I am thinking about getting a couple hose end timers to help with the back yard but I would still have to switch hoses because I have two zones in my back yard.
 

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Ral1121 said:
These other problem is I do not have an in ground sprinkler system.

@Redtenchu

I put out milorganite once a month and then spray fas weekly at a nitrogen rate of .25 lbs per 1000.

@Ware @Tellycoleman

I do not have a sprinkler system so I do not have a controller. I am thinking I will be able to hand water the front but the back I can run my above ground system which I don't have a controller for.

@viva_oldtrafford

Why ditch the panterra? Does it not help even water distribution. As well as help keep water in the soil? If not is there a better product for me to use?

I am thinking about getting a couple hose end timers to help with the back yard but I would still have to switch hoses because I have two zones in my back yard.
I thought Penterra was a mover of water (flushing, if you will). However, from the looks of it, it may actually cause water retention by dispersing the clay particles in the soil (not an ideal method imo).

http://gsrpdf.lib.msu.edu/ticpdf.py?file=/article/zontek-understanding-7-20-12.pdf - see page 2
 

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Are your neighbors rats? Can you put in a well? Is anybody going to notice half an inch twice a week versus an inch once a week?
Sorry officer I didn't know, my sprinkler guy says he can't adjust it until next month.

Just some helpful suggestions :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Haha did not think about that. I will be using that excuse this week for sure because on my schuled day for watering, my wife is scheduled to be induced. My wife was giving me a hard time because I was trying to work around my lawn schedule for our daughter's birth.
 

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Don't f with SAWS. My neighbor got caught watering on the wrong day and he got a huge fine. Your neighbors won't be the problem, SAWS will drive around your neighborhood looking for violators. I've found that watering in the morning and in the evening on your water day will be enough.
 

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When limited to one day for watering, I will start the first half of watering at midnight (still cycling as needed), and then put the other half down where it will end just before midnight the next day. I was able to get by this way for one day every two weeks a few years ago. The grass started showing stress around day 12, but that is where the hand watering comes into play.
 

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I'm in Cibolo which is Guadalupe county and I haven't heard of a water restriction on my side,but if I were you I would get a nozzle that flows a Lot like a fire hose nozzle and just water it that way.It shouldn't take very long to put out half an inch or an inch with one of those nozzles or even just the hose with your finger over it to fan it out.

Also I found two places on in New Braunfels and another in Seguin that sell a 18 10 5. Ammonium Sulfate. $13 for a 50lb bag.Let me know if you are interested and I will give you the info.
 
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