I have a DIY system using timers at the bibs > standard connector hose > to polypipe. My plan is to bring in the timers, remove the connector hoses and store those, then plug the poly pipes at the ground level and use a shop vac at the lowest sprinkler head to suction out as much water as possible. Does this sound like a good plan? Even if a little water is left in them, would they still possibly break from freeze/thaw over the winter? Also if anyone knows of any other gadgets that can do this efficiently I'm all ears.
Winterizing DIY sprinkler system using shop vac? Solved (LEAF BLOWER WORKS)
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You could use an air compressor to blow out the lines but I think you will be fine either way since there shouldn't be enough water in any of the lines to cause them to burst. Lines usually burst in the Winter if they are left pressurized and the water freezes and expands causing the line to burst.
Buy this.
Winterize RV, Boat, Motorhome, Camper, and Travel Trailer: Air Compressor Quick-connect Plug To Male Garden Faucet Blow Out Adapter Fitting (Solid Lead-Free Brass) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017CM0134/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TyK-zb7ETA1FG
Borrow an air compressor from a friend/neighbor or rent. You want to remove most of the water. You could get a hard freeze and any water that doesn't have a place to displace could break a line. The repair is not worth the risk in my opinion.
Winterize RV, Boat, Motorhome, Camper, and Travel Trailer: Air Compressor Quick-connect Plug To Male Garden Faucet Blow Out Adapter Fitting (Solid Lead-Free Brass) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017CM0134/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TyK-zb7ETA1FG
Borrow an air compressor from a friend/neighbor or rent. You want to remove most of the water. You could get a hard freeze and any water that doesn't have a place to displace could break a line. The repair is not worth the risk in my opinion.
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Came here to recommend the part g-man talked about. I actually bought two different ones. An $11 one and a $21 one. I have simple garden hoses and sprinklers, but eventually I want something better and from what I can tell this and a fancier air compressor is basically what all the pros around here (Cedar Rapids) do.
JonhP, i would not use the $11 one you linked without modification. The hole is too small to get good airflow. In the reviews you will see folks that drill a larger hole.
Air flow (measured in CFM) is important. When the pipe is full, the water will push it self out. As the pipes get empty, water will pool in the lowest point. You need enough airflow to push that water out while some of the air flows thru the top portion of the pipe. The airflow needs to be enough to get the water to a head and out of the system.
Does it have to be super dry? No, some water there is low risk. The ground will need to freeze at that depth to freeze the water and all the water will need to freeze and not have a place to expand and then enough force to break the pipe.
Air flow (measured in CFM) is important. When the pipe is full, the water will push it self out. As the pipes get empty, water will pool in the lowest point. You need enough airflow to push that water out while some of the air flows thru the top portion of the pipe. The airflow needs to be enough to get the water to a head and out of the system.
Does it have to be super dry? No, some water there is low risk. The ground will need to freeze at that depth to freeze the water and all the water will need to freeze and not have a place to expand and then enough force to break the pipe.
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I've used something similar to the $21 option JohnP posted. Works well for me and I haven't had any problems blowing out my lines with a 30 gallon air compressor at 40-50 PSI.
I've also seen some people on the tubes rig their leaf blower up to the lines and blow out that way. Lots of CFM and low pressure, which apparently is what you want. I've never done it that way, but it might work.
I've also seen some people on the tubes rig their leaf blower up to the lines and blow out that way. Lots of CFM and low pressure, which apparently is what you want. I've never done it that way, but it might work.
I never understood the need to clear every drop of water either (nor had a problem). I also just turn the water off and get the pressure out of the system. Water bursts a pipe when it expands after freezing, so the pipe would have to be FULL. If the line has a few drops and they freeze, they won't burst the pipe.Mightyquinn said:
That makes sense. With polypipe there should be some leeway too. The only thing I'm concerned with is if there's a dip of some sort somewhere along the line (like where I had to go under my sidewalk).glenmonte said:
I tried both the shopvac and blower method. The blower method actually worked for the shorter zones but I'm not sure it did with the longer zone. Water sort of dribbled out for about 5 minutes and pooled around the sprinklers but I didn't feel like it was enough to clear the pipe .
I agree about the dips. Makes sense. Once the mist eases up, the dips should be clear. You can make something like the $21 version using an old washing machine hose and air connector. I added a ball valve, too.
I'm also guilty of using a pancake, which everyone says won't work because of volume, but it does. I use the pancake because that's what I have, and when it burns out, I'll get a bigger compressor. Until then, it's fine with me to have it run a lot to keep up the 45 psi.
I'm also guilty of using a pancake, which everyone says won't work because of volume, but it does. I use the pancake because that's what I have, and when it burns out, I'll get a bigger compressor. Until then, it's fine with me to have it run a lot to keep up the 45 psi.
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+1g-man said:
The vacuum created by a shop vac is going to be limited to maximum atmospheric pressure (about 15 psi max). Once the "water seal" is broken and air can pass over the water, it becomes ineffective. Higher compressed air pressure can still remove most of the remaining water when that happens.
BTW, if I recall correctly, freezing water can exert 600 psi.
Probably more than that as it's quite capable of breaking hydraulic fittings rated north of 3000psi.
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Interesting idea. I've always gone the professional route for blowing out the lines, but never thought of using the leaf blower! I'll have to think a bit about how to plumb up the leaf blower output to the irrigation plumbing...chrismar said:
I wouldn't use a blower either, but if you were really determined to do so, get a no hub coupling to connect some poly sewer pipe (pvc is too heavy) to the blower. At the end you can put whatever series of adapters to connect to the garden hose or union where there vacuum breaker is connected.
As a bonus to make your neighbors think you're really nuts, get a few lengths of 1 1/2 poly and whatever fittings you need and make a 20 foot long one to clean your gutters.
As a bonus to make your neighbors think you're really nuts, get a few lengths of 1 1/2 poly and whatever fittings you need and make a 20 foot long one to clean your gutters.
I just wanted to update to say the sprinklers are in perfect working order this spring after the harshest winter we've had since I lived in this house. Even though I think everyone is right that some water left wouldn't burst it I will do the leaf blower method every winter anyway as a precaution. It's free so it can't hurt anything and definitely cleared some water out of the lines.
@richeetee See if you could find an extension or some way to narrow it (maybe cut a funnel to size). Mine had an extension piece that was a little larger than the garden hose. This is where it gets a little macgyver-redneckish.. I wrapped both ends really tight with gorilla tape and made a "bridge". The air had no where to go but into the hose. It definitely worked somewhat, but nothing like a real blowout would look. If you have a 1/2 acre with a lot of zones it might be worth investing in an air compressor.
I just thought up another idea but I'm not sure if this is a viable one. What if I added a 1/4" dedicated valve to the pipe feeding the bib..shut off the water leading to that pipe, empty it through the valve before winter and then leave it off until spring. Would this work, or does it depend on the elevation of the zones relative to the feeding pipe? The way property slopes I think this would work with one of the zones.
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