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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looking at using weed killer plus crabgrass (Quinclorac). They all have roughly 1-2% which doesn't seem like a lot. Im hesitant to use something like drive bc i've read that while it WILL kill the crabgrass it will make those spots brown until next year.
 

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ahartzell said:
Looking at using weed killer plus crabgrass (Quinclorac). They all have roughly 1-2% which doesn't seem like a lot. Im hesitant to use something like drive bc i've read that while it WILL kill the crabgrass it will make those spots brown until next year.
As long as you use the recommended rates you should be fine. Maybe a little discoloration for a couple days but nothing Bermuda won't handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
J_nick said:
ahartzell said:
Looking at using weed killer plus crabgrass (Quinclorac). They all have roughly 1-2% which doesn't seem like a lot. Im hesitant to use something like drive bc i've read that while it WILL kill the crabgrass it will make those spots brown until next year.
As long as you use the recommended rates you should be fine. Maybe a little discoloration for a couple days but nothing Bermuda won't handle.
With over the counter stuff like spectracide or Drive?
 

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Can you link what Spectracide product you're talking about?

Drive shouldn't hurt your Bermuda if sprayed correctly. I plan on using it on my seedlings if necessary. As with any Herbicide read the label a few times. Drive label

Also try looking at Celsius it's part of the Bermuda Triangle. It's one of the best weed killers for us southerners. Up front investment may be steep but it's cheaper in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
J_nick said:
Can you link what Spectracide product you're talking about?

Drive shouldn't hurt your Bermuda if sprayed correctly. I plan on using it on my seedlings if necessary. As with any Herbicide read the label a few times. Drive label

Also try looking at Celsius it's part of the Bermuda Triangle. It's one of the best weed killers for us southerners. Up front investment may be steep but it's cheaper in the long run.
What's Celsius? And PGR? I've seen those mentioned on here.

Here's the spectracide. I've used it on previous lawn and it did really well. Treated lawn today with it since I've got a few weeds popping up (like 5-6 total 😂) but I've got patches of immature crabgrass too. You have to look close (4th and 5th pics above) because it just looks like lighter green grass at first.


 

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ahartzell said:
What's Celsius? And PGR? I've seen those mentioned on here.
Celsius is post-emergent herbicide that a lot of us use. It kills both broadleaf and grassy weeds, and does not have an application temperature restriction (like 2,4-D and others). I use it for pretty much everything except sedges. The up-front cost is pretty high at ~$100/bottle, but it will make over 88 gallons at the high rate. It is highly concentrated, so be sure and go easy... measure twice and cut once. :thumbup:

We added an acronyms/glossary section in the Articles & FAQs subforum for the terms a lot of us take for granted, but to answer your question...

PGR: Plant Growth Regulators like Primo MAXX or a generic equivalent (Trinexapac-ethyl - 11.3%) are sprayed to inhibit vertical growth of the turf by up to 50%. Primo also offers other benefits such as increased color/density and pre-stress conditioning of the turf.
 

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Looks like Ware beat me to the punch!! :thumbup:

ahartzell said:
What's Celsius? And PGR? I've seen those mentioned on here.
Celsius is a Post Emergent herbicide that is made for Warm Season turf and is safe to use at high temps and actually works better the hotter it is outside. It controls a wide spectrum of broadleaf and grassy weeds. It works on damn near everything except sedges. A 10 oz bottle costs around $100 but will last you for YEARS and is actually cheaper than buying the stuff they sell at Lowe's or Home Depot.

Celsius Herbicide

You may also want to get a gram scale to help measure the Celsius too. Like This

PGR is a Plant Growth Regulator which reduces the growth of the grass and can cut your mowing frequency down by a lot. It can also reduce you clippings too. It basically causes the plant to redirect the energy into the roots, rhizomes and stolons and "can" make your lawn darker green too.

The trade name is called Primo Maxx but you can get the generic version for MUCH cheaper right here Generic Primo Maxx

Here is a thread on the subject too Information about PGR
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys! I know a guy who works on the local minor league baseball fields. He's sent me their foliar fertilizers (Floratine brand) and one is a PGR. The concept of restricting top growth while redirecting it to roots and lateral growth is great. It does scare me to, for lack of better term, stunt the growth. A PGR sounds good though about now. It's not even June and I'm mowing every day or every other day. I mowed Thursday and couldn't again until yesterday. Cut a TON off. Mowed again today and it was better. But I can literally mow daily.
 

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ahartzell said:
But I can literally mow daily.
That is exactly why you want the pgr. Added benefits also include shortening the distance between nodes and reducing shoot size (both length and width). Trust the masses on this one. It is probably the best purchase you can make outside of the mower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Feel like I just went down a rabbit hole. Would like to start using PGR...but it has to be applied as often as fert (every 4wks)...and then comes piecing together a calibrated sprayer (I just want to buy one at Home Depot lol!)

Do you guys put PGR out every 4wks?
Do you also put fert down every 4wks (separate from PGR)?

Is there a place I can just buy a sprayer as opposed to buying 10+ pieces and building?
 

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A good rule of thumb for PGR is every 21 days, but definitely by week four at normal rates. Even when the grass is in regulation (slowed growth rate from the PGR) it still requires the same water and nutrients as when it wasn't sprayed. So, keep your watering and fertilizing schedule as if you didn't spray PGR. Also, once you start a PGR protocol, you need to stick with it for the remainder of the season. This won't be hard to do, though, as it's effects are very addictive.

Sprayers:
The Chapin push sprayer is discussed here.
The Chapin backpack sprayer is discussed here.
Guys like this pump sprayer discussed here.
A large property tow-behind sprayer option is discussed here.
And my favorite but most expensive option is discussed here.

Ah, decisions. It's nice to have options, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
dfw_pilot said:
A good rule of thumb for PGR is every 21 days, but definitely by week four at normal rates. Even when the grass is in regulation (slowed growth rate from the PGR) it still requires the same water and nutrients as when it wasn't sprayed. So, keep your watering and fertilizing schedule as if you didn't spray PGR. Also, once you start a PGR protocol, you need to stick with it for the remainder of the season. This won't be hard to do, though, as it's effects are very addictive.

Sprayers:
The Chapin push sprayer is discussed here.
The Chapin backpack sprayer is discussed here.
Guys like this pump sprayer discussed here.
A large property tow-behind sprayer option is discussed here.
And my favorite but most expensive option is discussed here.

Ah, decisions. It's nice to have options, though.
Can that Chapin pump sprayer accept the right nozzles/regulators to spray PGR?
 

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ahartzell said:
Is there a place I can just buy a sprayer as opposed to buying 10+ pieces and building?
Getting the sprayer parts rounded up is a little bit of a project. Read all those links, and may be a good idea to by more than one tee-jet nozzle. Then you can try each out to calibrate your sprayer so you know which one works best for you.

But once you get over all the hurdles, you know how much liquid to put in your sprayer to cover the different sections of your yard.
 
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