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I too have switched to light and frequent watering since listening to these podcasts. My tall fescue used to be watered every 3rd day at .50”. Now for about a month I have been every other day at .2” per watering. My lawn went from acceptable to above that with more noticeable top growth. Weed pressure, mostly clover, has liked it as well so I have been pulling more weeds weekly, not a big deal for me. I have also had to mow more often at least 2 to 3 days a week at the 3” mark.
 
Came across a pretty fascinating video from Dr Shaddox regarding a study where watering more frequently led to healthier grass. We've always been told watering more frequently leads to shallower roots, less pest resistance, etc., this study seems to dispute some of that.

There also seem to be many things missing from the study that left more questions than answers for me.

  • The study did not include Bermuda grass
  • It did not address issues like was fungus more prevalent or would watering only in the morning be sufficient to prevent it
  • Was the grass more susceptible to diseases
  • Would this make it more susceptible to frost damage if the roots aren't as deep
  • Did the increased weed pressure outweigh the benefits of healthier grass
I am a bit conflicted now on if I should water 4x/wk at 0.25" per session or stick with twice a week at 0.5" per session. Of course, from a visual aspect, the grass always looks healthier and greener after getting water, but that doesn't mean the downsides don't outweigh the benefits.

Water restrictions are down to 1 day a week and its never going to get better here.
Im waiting for the turf ban . lol
Tuesdays 12am -10am , 5pm-1130pm
I get down just over 3/4” in that time frame
 
Interesting conversation. I have wondered since my lawn always seems happier after a week of drizzle than once weekly watering. I just assumed the rain was magic. But maybe its something else
It is magic!

I can water like crazy but nothing gives a result like rain.

I tried deep an infrequent but it didn't work for me last year, I'm trying frequent and light this year.

Yet, with little to no rain, results are sub par.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
It is magic!

I can water like crazy but nothing gives a result like rain.

I tried deep an infrequent but it didn't work for me last year, I'm trying frequent and light this year.

Yet, with little to no rain, results are sub par.
I always consider an irrigation system nothing more than a tool that helps your grass survive until the next rainfall.....nothing beats real rain. That's why I don't understand when people plant Northern grasses in a southern zone then expect it to survive the summer.
 
Interesting conversation. I have wondered since my lawn always seems happier after a week of drizzle than once weekly watering. I just assumed the rain was magic. But maybe its something else
Call it magic or call it "nitrogen-infused". My theory is that rainwater, especially thunderstorm, is basically a spoonfeed fertilizer treatment.
 
I've already tested this on my Zeon zoysia and my lawn is 100% better with frequent, lighter watering over the deep but infrequent watering. I tried for a few years to adhere to the advice we all constantly hear about watering deeply and infrequently to promote good root depth and drought tolerance but I just wasn't seeing good results in the summer. I decided last year to change my approach and it's so much better.

Caveat to this is that I'm in DFW and have mostly hard, clay soil. Also have an issue with some serious rock underneath some portions of the lawn. Those 2 things combined mean it's basically pointless to try and water deeply because there just isn't enough soil depth for that to happen. A lot of it will end up as runoff.

I think the area of the country you live in and your soil type can really play a huge role here. In the deep south in the middle of summer, it's pretty hard to water only twice a week and have your lawn look good through all 7 days.

The experts can continue to push for deep, infrequent waterings but I've seen the results of doing the opposite. I think the advice the experts are giving needs to change for the vast majority of us.

I can tell you right now..... There is NO way my lawn would look this good in the heat of summer if I watered deeply only a couple times a week.
 

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I've already tested this on my Zeon zoysia and my lawn is 100% better with frequent, lighter watering over the deep but infrequent watering. I tried for a few years to adhere to the advice we all constantly hear about watering deeply and infrequently to promote good root depth and drought tolerance but I just wasn't seeing good results in the summer. I decided last year to change my approach and it's so much better.

Caveat to this is that I'm in DFW and have mostly hard, clay soil. Also have an issue with some serious rock underneath some portions of the lawn. Those 2 things combined mean it's basically pointless to try and water deeply because there just isn't enough soil depth for that to happen. A lot of it will end up as runoff.

I think the area of the country you live in and your soil type can really play a huge role here. In the deep south in the middle of summer, it's pretty hard to water only twice a week and have your lawn look good through all 7 days.

The experts can continue to push for deep, infrequent waterings but I've seen the results of doing the opposite. I think the advice the experts are giving needs to change for the vast majority of us.

I can tell you right now..... There is NO way my lawn would look this good in the heat of summer if I watered deeply only a couple times a week.
I’m in dfw also, and since the cooler weather started I’ve pushed watering to every 6-7 days. With the heat we had a few weeks ago I was down to three days or 1.5” per week
 
I've already tested this on my Zeon zoysia and my lawn is 100% better with frequent, lighter watering over the deep but infrequent watering. I tried for a few years to adhere to the advice we all constantly hear about watering deeply and infrequently to promote good root depth and drought tolerance but I just wasn't seeing good results in the summer. I decided last year to change my approach and it's so much better.

Caveat to this is that I'm in DFW and have mostly hard, clay soil. Also have an issue with some serious rock underneath some portions of the lawn. Those 2 things combined mean it's basically pointless to try and water deeply because there just isn't enough soil depth for that to happen. A lot of it will end up as runoff.

I think the area of the country you live in and your soil type can really play a huge role here. In the deep south in the middle of summer, it's pretty hard to water only twice a week and have your lawn look good through all 7 days.

The experts can continue to push for deep, infrequent waterings but I've seen the results of doing the opposite. I think the advice the experts are giving needs to change for the vast majority of us.

I can tell you right now..... There is NO way my lawn would look this good in the heat of summer if I watered deeply only a couple times a week.
From the short test I’ve been running in my backyard I can see improvement. I have one zone that struggles when it hits 90s with 2 day watering cycle. Switched to 5 days a week with short intervals and great improvement. My other zones seem to do fine with the 2 day schedule, so I will leave those alone. I am also in DFW and basically seems I am on caliche.
 
Came across a pretty fascinating video from Dr Shaddox regarding a study where watering more frequently led to healthier grass. We've always been told watering more frequently leads to shallower roots, less pest resistance, etc., this study seems to dispute some of that.

There also seem to be many things missing from the study that left more questions than answers for me.

  • The study did not include Bermuda grass
  • It did not address issues like was fungus more prevalent or would watering only in the morning be sufficient to prevent it
  • Was the grass more susceptible to diseases
  • Would this make it more susceptible to frost damage if the roots aren't as deep
  • Did the increased weed pressure outweigh the benefits of healthier grass
I am a bit conflicted now on if I should water 4x/wk at 0.25" per session or stick with twice a week at 0.5" per session. Of course, from a visual aspect, the grass always looks healthier and greener after getting water, but that doesn't mean the downsides don't outweigh the benefits.

Everything with lawns is a balance... you are dealing with nature and whilst science and studies can be very helpful at times, there are so many variables and qualifications to be made that you can get caught up with mostly irrelevant studies and overthink these things.

My thoughts are that observation/ personal experience with your lawn in your locale and common sense should prevail.
Once a lawn is established, a combination of deep and shallow waterings are necessary...shallow watering means you use less water and nutrients remain in the profile for longer, ( more important in sand) but have to irrigate more often in the warmer months. Shallow watering means the plant does not have to work as hard, competing against gravity and air pressure to lift and extract moisture from the profile. This means that generally speaking, the plant should be healthier, having to work less.
We all know that Deep water encourages deep roots for those dry times, especially with bermudas where I have seen rhizomes down at 4 feet many, many times. However, Irrigation water moving past the principal root zone is wasted water as gravity continues to pull it along with various nutrients downwards.
Various Fungal diseases are only relevant at certain temps and more so with some specialist varieties so you should be able to ascertain that and manage accordingly. Thatch build up and heavy nitrogen use will be contributing factors as well.
With frost, I cannot imagine the level of frost damage being dependent on root depth....Frost is the freezing of the moisture in the leaves, rupturing the cells.... if your soil is not being frozen then there is no issue with roots...Recovery from frost will obviously be quicker on an established, well maintained, healthy lawn but with bermuda, its so tough, that frost should never be an issue (other than short term visually). High nitrogen levels will make for softer weaker leaves with higher moisture levels that will be more susceptible to frost damage. Lower mowing will potentially lower the overnight soil temps, as there is less buffering against the cold night air. Lower soil temps equals slower recovery.
Regarding weeds, a thick healthy lawn should remain close to 100% weed free all the time, however if you are mowing very low, then you are providing more opportunity for new weed to germinate and establish... at the same time the increased mowing frequency necessary for low mowed lawns will take out most weed as it germinates/early stages of development meaning only the weeds with the very lowest profiles/height tolerance are likely to establish. Constant moisture in the upper profile will also encourage germination and potential fungal issues.
Weeds in Bermuda are so easily controlled these days, that IMO, it really shouldn't be a concerning factor.

Just my thoughts..
Cheers.
 
Just curious, but how long would be considered "established?" I put down Tahoma 31 sod roughly 2 months ago. I have been pushing deep and infrequent to train the roots, however I notice if I don't wanted it frequently I'm stressing it out still
 
I would consider" established" to mean at least one full growing season.. a lawn with a fully established root system may actually take a couple of seasons to achieve...the fact that the grass is stressing indicates the root development is lacking/immature and there could be any number of reasons why that is so..
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I would consider" established" to mean at least one full growing season.. a lawn with a fully established root system may actually take a couple of seasons to achieve...the fact that the grass is stressing indicates the root development is lacking/immature and there could be any number of reasons why that is so..
@CoachTooz @Stevo Is stressing necessarily a bad thing though? Training in pretty much anything is more stressful than doing nothing because it is meant to be uncomfortable, but the end result is typically an improvement in some area. Working out is a good example, it's not comfortable but the end result is better health.

So, I think the main remaining question for me is shouldn't we stress the lawn while it is getting established? By letting it dry out with deeper infrequent watering isn't the signs of stress actually just signs the grass is having to make the uncomfortable decision to go deeper into the soil in search of moisture...thereby establishing a more resilient root system? As the old saying goes, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

I think we all agree that lighter more frequent watering makes for a healthier lawn after it is established; but I don't think we have a good answer on if we should deliberately stress it while it is getting established to make it stronger.
 
@CoachTooz @Stevo Is stressing necessarily a bad thing though? Training in pretty much anything is more stressful than doing nothing because it is meant to be uncomfortable, but the end result is typically an improvement in some area. Working out is a good example, it's not comfortable but the end result is better health.

So, I think the main remaining question for me is shouldn't we stress the lawn while it is getting established? By letting it dry out with deeper infrequent watering isn't the signs of stress actually just signs the grass is having to make the uncomfortable decision to go deeper into the soil in search of moisture...thereby establishing a more resilient root system? As the old saying goes, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

I think we all agree that lighter more frequent watering makes for a healthier lawn after it is established; but I don't think we have a good answer on if we should deliberately stress it while it is getting established to make it stronger.
As the old saying goes, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

At the end of the day, I guess its simply a case of the degree of stress, but are we even all on the same page as to what qualifies as stress..? Are we allowing the leaves to dehydrate and whither or are we simply not watering for a few days and the lawn still looks OK. ?
Personally, I believe in treating a lawn well until it is well rooted in during the initial establishment period...my visual cues for that would be simply..... strong healthy growth, consistency across the lawn, plenty of colour and leaf production, the recovery of any areas that went backwards after the initial install, followed by any desired height reduction and perhaps the need for levelling and top dressing etc... It's all going to be site dependent relative to the time of year, the variety and quality of turf/sod purchased, the variations in the onsite soil quality( compaction, nutrients, hydrophobia, depth, sand, clay), shaded areas, drainage issues etc..

My fInal thoughts and therefore answer is that I see no need to unnecessarily stress the turf in the initial establishment period and don't believe it is particularly beneficial... the turf/sod has the rest of its life to send roots deeper. A healthy plant will want to send roots downwards.
Cheers.
 
With so many variables, nearly every site, and situation, is unique. You experiment, and at the end of the day you practice whatever gives you the best result. Deep and infrequent may be better in some situations, while shallower and frequent better in others.
 
May I ask for help in trying this? I have Rachio controller, live in Phoenix, have Bob Sod Bermuda. Been running 7" for depth a few years. Lawn is pretty good looking but I've always wondered why it doesn't look great like other hybrid Bermudas. I don't want to derail the thread with all of the possible reasons, and to remain on topic, I'm just asking for help to water more frequently.

So I had it set up so it watered about every 3 days with the 7-in root depth setting. I was thinking I would just switch to 3-in root depth to get it to water more frequently but the same amount of overall gallons of water per week. Does that make sense? I guess in other words, from my understanding changing the root depth doesn't change overall gallons of water per week but frequency.
 
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