Warm weather (90+) ready to spray broad leaf on bermuda/st aug
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That will work, but I wouldn't take that route because the active ingredients are dicamba and 2, 4-D, both of which are going to harm the St. Aug. and one of which will possibly harm the bermuda. Your lawn will get stress in these high temps, but it would recover if you applied ortho. If you do apply it, make sure to apply at the lowest labeled rate to reduce stress.
There are better options for sure, especially for your bermuda grass. Do you have a budget in mind? Because the best option for both is about $100. It will last you several seasons though. Also, are you only needing to kill broadleaf weeds or are there some grassy weeds like nutsedge in the mix?
There are better options for sure, especially for your bermuda grass. Do you have a budget in mind? Because the best option for both is about $100. It will last you several seasons though. Also, are you only needing to kill broadleaf weeds or are there some grassy weeds like nutsedge in the mix?
The reason I suggested those are because I am not sure if I'm ready to mix my own chemicals and spray. I've started getting serious with the yard this year and I've been using granual fertalizer and preemergent and Ortho weed b gone on the yard.
If I were to go your route what would you suggest? Also what is a good hand sprayer/wand because not mixing my own is really a handicap.
If I were to go your route what would you suggest? Also what is a good hand sprayer/wand because not mixing my own is really a handicap.
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We've all been there, so don't be afraid to give it a try. It's easy to make a mistake mixing herbicides when you don't follow certain cannot-break rules. As you get deeper into the project, if you're unsure about a mix rate, post it up on this board. These guys know their stuff and will be able to confirm you're doing it right or help you adjust.Killmeh said:
Here is what I recommend:
- Measure your lawn if you haven't already. Get a wheel measure or a long tape measure and just knock it out. There is no point even discussing what rates to apply herbicides if you do not know how many square feet you have. There is very good content on youtube on how to measure your lawn, and several of the forum members videos on lawn measuring
- I suggest Celsius WG Herbicide for your mix of grass. Its cost will vary, and you can find it for under $100 sometimes, but it is $105.95 fromthis store where I bought it. Celsius will only slightly discolor your bermuda, and it will likely hurt your St. Augustine to some extent in this heat, but the reality is that there are few herbicides you can apply that won't hurt St. Augustine in high temperatures. Since you only have broadleaf weeds, you can apply the lowest rate of Celsius using a blanket application on the lawn, which should help you mitigate damage to the St. Augustine. Either way it will recover in a month's time.
- For sprayers, I can give the the low, medium, and high cost options. Low cost, but VERY reliable (used by this site owner @Ware, is the Chapin 2 gal. pro series pump sprayer. Medium cost is the FH25E battery powered sprayer from Sprayer's Plus, which is a very nice little sprayer and the battery power will really help you spray consistent patterns. Use the code GCITURF for free shipping. High cost is something that many of us have graduated to, which is either the Chapin 20v backpack sprayer or the Sprayers Plus backpack sprayer.
- Read the labels on your herbicide you are applying from front to back. I cannot stress this enough. With that, and your square feet, you will have everything you need to prevent yourself from screwing up.
- Learn how to mix herbicides from @Ware's method, which is a safe and reliable way to make sure you don't screw up.
- Granular fertilizer is perfectly fine. It's actually the preferred method for residential homeowners, although some on here are experts at liquid fertilizers.
- Granular pre-emergent is also perfectly fine. I prefer to spray my pre-emergents because it's actually cheaper and they last longer, but the active ingredient you are putting down is much more important than whether you apply granular or liquid.
Excellent reply
i have measured and i know i have approx 9300 square feet of spraying area to spray.
I have no problem going granular fert and pre-m (i use dimension hi-yield), but yes the issue is the post applications where its very limited options for spraying ready to spray items. if i could find that i would just use it but my only options i know of, i cant spray when it is hot, which in southern Louisiana is 3/4 the year lol
i have measured and i know i have approx 9300 square feet of spraying area to spray.
I have no problem going granular fert and pre-m (i use dimension hi-yield), but yes the issue is the post applications where its very limited options for spraying ready to spray items. if i could find that i would just use it but my only options i know of, i cant spray when it is hot, which in southern Louisiana is 3/4 the year lol
also this is the one i was talking about @Ecks from Tex s , since i know there are a few different brands out there
https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/weed-control/ortho-weed-b-gon-weed-killer-staugustinegrass-ready-spray
the other ortho weed b gon i think is not safe for st augustine
https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/weed-control/ortho-weed-b-gon-weed-killer-staugustinegrass-ready-spray
the other ortho weed b gon i think is not safe for st augustine
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That's what I figured.Killmeh said:
Take a look at the label. It says:
It will yellow both of your grasses, which is why I suggest finding a different AI.
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Not offhand that you could blanket apply to a lawn. But in all seriousness, mixing herbicides is something you just have to learn to do. Mix a small batch and try it out in an inconspicuous corner of your lot if you're truly concerned. Use blue marking dye if you are worried you won't spray it evenly. There are ways to make it foolproof.Killmeh said:
I am also new to spraying and mixing herbicides. This forum is a huge help. I spent the money on Celsius and it was worth every penny. I sprayed one time at the highest rate using a blue marker to make sure
I got every where. I also have st Augustine and it stressed it and slowed its growth for about 2 weeks but it bounced right back and there was not a single weed in the yard. You have to be very patient it kills the weed but takes about 2-3 weeks. As many have said I have plenty left over for probably 2-3 years. It also covers the largest number of weeds.
I got every where. I also have st Augustine and it stressed it and slowed its growth for about 2 weeks but it bounced right back and there was not a single weed in the yard. You have to be very patient it kills the weed but takes about 2-3 weeks. As many have said I have plenty left over for probably 2-3 years. It also covers the largest number of weeds.
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The biggest drawback to using Celsius on your grass types is the length of time that it takes to kill when it's not really hot outside. Once it reaches 80°F or higher, it works much faster. The AI's in Celsius are going to stress the grass a little, so there might be some discoloration, but it'll be just fine. Don't be afraid to use the same stuff pro's do, just know your math before you pull the trigger and take the time to read the labels. Ecks gave you solid advice.
So Celsius WG will do basically everything but nutsege safely in high temps.
Is there any where to buy this in person , and what is the shelf life like? 10oz would allow me to blanket spray my yard 9 times at highest rate, so that should last me approx 4ish years.
So let me see if I have this correct. If I were to use it at the max rate you mix up .226oz per 2 gallons and make sure to spray that on 2000 square feet. Then continue mixing 2 gallon apps until all sprayed?
Is there any where to buy this in person , and what is the shelf life like? 10oz would allow me to blanket spray my yard 9 times at highest rate, so that should last me approx 4ish years.
So let me see if I have this correct. If I were to use it at the max rate you mix up .226oz per 2 gallons and make sure to spray that on 2000 square feet. Then continue mixing 2 gallon apps until all sprayed?
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Look at your temperature on a 12 month calendar. I'm in Central La and I will only apply those herbcides in April and October. For us both of those months are below 85 on average. I can't deal with discoloring of my turf.Killmeh said:
Look for a SiteOne landcape supply in your area. You can usually buy it in person there. If not just look for the landscape suppliers they should have it. You can also look at some surfactant and blue dye as well. The blue dye is really messy but for me it gives me some comfort knowing I'm not spraying the same spots or missed any either.
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Surfactant is a bad idea in summer months (not to use per Celsius labe). But otherwise looks great.Killmeh said:How does this look?
I think I have everything covered but nutsege. Was going to see how it goes with just the Celsius before I have a lot of bare ground lol
And just make sure to apply at the lowest rate and you will be in the best spot you can be in.
And you should be able to get the Chapin backpack for $128. And Celsius is cheaper from Solutions Pest and Lawn if you're looking to save a little money.
Thanks @Ecks from Tex , where can I find the Chaplin for that price.
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