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There's a guy locally who is selling this TruCut for $150. He says the blades need sharpening. I haven't looked at it yet, but he says it runs fine. Looks a little beat up to me, but is it worth the entry price to use on my bermuda and zoysia? Thx.
 

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Is it a craigslist ad? Just trying to see if there are more pictures to check out.

First impressions.
150 is a pretty good price if it's working
It is the older model
Tires are worn down quite a bit, meaning it's just been used a lot.
 

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SGrabs33 said:
Is it a craigslist ad? Just trying to see if there are more pictures to check out.

First impressions.
150 is a pretty good price if it's working
It is the older model
Tires are worn down quite a bit, meaning it's just been used a lot.
+1 on everything Scott said. My first impression was how bald the back tires were. It has some miles one it. Definitely check the reel and bedknife. If you needed to replace that you could easily be spending $300+ for new parts. I searched the Atlanta Craigslist and saw some McLane's around the same price that looked fresher. I'm a fan of the TC's over the McLane's because they have more height adjustments, but quite a few members on here have beautiful McLane cut lawns.
 

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Doesn't look too bad for 150 if it's functional. I'd say take a stab at it and try it out.

If you go check it out just make sure there are not any large dings in the bed knife or the reel itself. If he said it needs sharpening that may be the reason. Or it might just need a good backlapping and a reel to bedknife adjustment to cut well. It's always hard to know how much the seller knows about the actual machine. If your not familiar with the controls just watch a few YouTube videos and you should be able to get the hang of what should be doing what.

If you get it and are not a fan, the Atlanta Craigslist market for TruCuts is pretty impressive. I think it would be hard to not get your money back for 150.

Let me know if you have any more questions.
 

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@Gopwh2020
@Jbrown has a California Trimmer Reel Mower which might be an option too.

This one is close to you and supposedly needs a new clutch.

I mention that because I know since you are in ATL and PeachTree Mowers is close and they service these types of reel mowers. They actually have this same mower for sale for $1295! I am not sure how much they would charge to fix and refurb it for you but I would have to imagine much less than $1295. Just an option...
 

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That $1295 is for a pre-owned unit too. I have a 20" Cal Trimmer and really like it. Unfortunately it wasn't heavy enough to cut my Zoysia. Worked great for my bermuda areas, but just floated on top of the Zoysia.
 

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Bought a pack of grommets from HD ~$3.00 in the electrical section:



There are 8 to a pack and the size I used was second to the smallest(missing in the pic of all the grommets-above). I took the rods out and put the grommets in and re-inserted the rods. The grommets are a super tight fit so it'll take some elbow grease to get them inside the hole in the handle. I suppose you could cut the grommet so you could open it up, slip it around the rod which may make it easier to install. That would save you from pulling the rod out, but it's not that big a deal.



 

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Does anyone know how to tell the age of a Tru-Cut mower? Or can that not be found?

The only thing that I have noticed before are the differences in the main chain cover. I believe this is the correct order from oldest to newest..... but I could be wrong.

Thin chain cover:


Wider but curved cover:


Wider but rigid cover:


Obviously, how the used mower was taken care of is most important but it would be nice to know general age too.
 

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I wonder what made them finally decide to make a few videos.

The clutch adjustment video is helpful but I find MQs walkthough quite a bit easier to follow. I just used it again the other day when doing some adjusting. Though, it is on the "other site".
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Would you mind posting the link and I will try to add it here as I still have the pictures.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Ok, I will be referring to the mower as if you were standing in front of it. You will need a flat tip screw driver, 1/2" & 7/16" wrench and/or socket wrench and a 1" wrench or large Crescent wrench. You may also need some needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pin that holds the height adjustment bar in place. You will need to remove the chain cover on the far right side(1 bolt and 1 nut) and the large one that is just right of the engine(2 in the front and 2 in the back). You will also need to remove the cotter pin and washer holding the height adjustment bar to the front of the mower, once free, just move it off to the side, I usually prop it behind the gas cap. Now you can remove the large chain/clutch cover. You will also need to remove the chain on the far right side, you can loosen the slack in the chain on the adjuster, it is a 1/2" bolt, once you have slack in the chain, find the connector link on the chain by rotating the reel with your hand until it is found and pop it off with a flat tip screwdriver and remove the link and the chain.

Picture #1


Picture #2


Picture #3


In Picture #1, you will need to remove Item #1 with the 1" wrench. After removing the nut also remove the gear from the arm also. Now you should be able to remove the washer with the tabs(Item #2) by hand or persuade it off with a flat tip screwdriver. Now you have access to the adjustment nut(Item #3), there are a few more steps before coming back to this to make your adjustments.

In Picture #2, You will need to loosen Items #1 & #2, they are 1/2" bolts with a nut on the bottom of them so it will require a wrench on one side and a wrench or socket wrench on the other. Once these are loose you can begin the adjustment of the clutch.

In Picture #3, You will insert the feeler gauge as shown in Item #1 to test the gap of the clutch. There should be a gap between .020"-.030". I usually shoot for .025.

Now you will tighten/loosen Item #3 in Picture #1 until the gap is where it needs to be. Once you have the gap to where you want it you will need to reassemble everything being sure to tightening the bolts from Pic #2 Items #1 & #2 and putting Items #2 & #1 from Pic #1 back together. You will also need to reattach the chain and remove the slack from the chain too. I would refrain from reinstalling the Chain guards until you can test drive it and make sure it all works correctly. Be careful adjusting the clutch too tight as it will engage too easily or stay engaged and when reinstalling the large chain/clutch cover, make sure it isn't sitting too low or the chain will hit it and make a god awful sound!!! :)

If I left something out please let me know so I can correct it or If you hit a snag let me know too!!!

Per SGrabs33's request, I moved this over here from ATY
 

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I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.
 

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Luthersrose said:
I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.
First, it's great to have another NCer in here. What part are you from?

That's a pretty expensive guess. How much did the new clutch assembly run you. I have dealt with my share of TruCut problems but I do not know to tell when the clutch needs replacing. I'm not sure if there is anyone else on here knows any of the tell tale signs of when it goes bad???

What size chain are you using to do the replacement. I think the correct # is 40. That's weird that the link is breaking. Maybe the chain is too loose and that's causing extra wear and stress on the link. I'm not too sure. The best way to replace the chain is to count the links of the old chain and match that number to the new chain. That way the only difference in the two should be the stretching of the original.

Do you know what is included in the whole assembly that you purchased? Drive sprocket and both clutch cups for both sides? It shouldn't be too hard to replace as long as you are good at keeping track of what goes where and are somewhat mechanically inclined. If you were able to do a write up of the process with lots of pictures I think that would help a lot of people out in the future. I've been told my clutch may need replacing sometime soon.

You will definitely have to do some adjusting but MightyQuinn has done a great outline of that process above. It will be slightly different for the P20 but you should get the jist.

Do you have a picture of your reel and the chain area? I doubt we would be able to tell what is going with a pic but might as well try.

Also, what makes you think that the new chain you have will fit with the new clutch assembly? The drive sprocket replacement is not going to change in size enough to make a difference for that, I don't think.

Finally, I've been typing this on my phone in bed so I apologize for typos or if any of my comments seem aggressive. I've been going with train of thought typing.

Welcome to the forum!
 
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