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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I recently purchased a Tru Cut H20 7 blade reel mower that is need of a thorough cleaning and repainting, as well as a full inspection. Can anyone help me with instructions on how to remove the axle and wheels, please? Thank you...
 

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Hi Karl, welcome to the forum!

I am not aware of anyone on the forum striping a TruCut down in order to clean/paint. It sounds like a nice project though. I think the best way to go about it would be to check out the parts list (TruCut P20 Parts List) to see if it helps detail what all is involved.

Sorry if that isn't too much help. I can try and check mine out sometime this week to see if I notice anything that may be of help. Hopefully someone on here might have a little more incite than me.

Post a pic of your mower if you can. Always nice to see peoples toys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, any help is appreciated. I'd really like to inspect the gear box on the axle and give it a cleaning and re-greasing as well. I've got the outer axle bearings off as well as everything else, with the exception of the knife bed, and it looks as though there's a pin running through the inner wheel hub and the axle. I'm going to remove the pin today and see if the axle will just slide out after that, but I have my doubts. Still taking any advice because I can't find a thing online so far :(
 

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Karl there are roll pins that go through the hub and axle that must be driven out. Once they are out you can drive the axle out. I was able to do this to my P20. I did a complete disassembly and rebuild on mine. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Also you might get you a high quality roll pin punch. Longer the better. You can do it with a regular punch but its tough. If it doesn't want to budge instead of forcing the issue I'd suggest slowly heating things.

Using heat is very useful when attempting to remove the bedknife. Also an impact screw driver is very useful, I'd say even a must to remove the bedknife. Had to use this tool and heat to get the screws loose on mine.

From this..


To this..


I've got a few other pictures but wished I had been more thorough in documenting the rebuild.
 

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Very cool. Yeah, if you have any more pics feel free to post them. There are not too many people that have gone through this process and any info would help.

Did you rebuild the whole clutch assembly too?

The refurbed reel looks great!
 

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I ended up putting a new clutch assembly on it. The shafts were pretty worn. When I got it the motor ran but any resistance stopped the blades and the drive. I thought the clutch was worn out, which it might have been, but now I'm thinking it just needed adjusting. Didn't know how to adjust it at the time.

Put all new bearings, new chains, cleaned and repacked the diff with new grease. Sandblasted and painted everything.







Put an aftermarket air filter on the harbor freight predator. The stock filter was just a thin piece of cheap foam and had clearance issues with the handle bar assembly.


I've also got a H20 that I planned to give the same treatment. Only thing is now I want a 27" model.

 

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Wow, that's a very thorough rebuilt. Just out of curiosity, can you estimate the hours you put into it? I've thought about repainting mine before.

That air filter reminds me of a mini bike, haha.

Llano Estacado said:
Only thing is now I want a 27" model.
:shock: :shock: :shock:
 

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Hard to estimate how many hours. Probably more time spent researching and sourcing parts than actual physical work. Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment was very helpful. Great folks there, highly recommend them. Got all the major parts from them. Bearings and chains I picked up locally.
 

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Llano Estacado said:
Hard to estimate how many hours. Probably more time spent researching and sourcing parts than actual physical work. Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment was very helpful. Great folks there, highly recommend them. Got all the major parts from them. Bearings and chains I picked up locally.
Nice, yeah I have used Dolphin too. They are good people.
 

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Great job on the H20. I am trying to restore 4 C-27's. I am having a very hard time trying to get the rear tire replaced. Anyone have any ideas aside from taking a blow torch to it? I have the removed 1 pin on the axle thus far . I cannot seem to find any other way to get it apart. If anyone has a site or idea, let me know.

Thank you!
 

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Markharper81 said:
Great job on the H20. I am trying to restore 4 C-27's. I am having a very hard time trying to get the rear tire replaced. Anyone have any ideas aside from taking a blow torch to it? I have the removed 1 pin on the axle thus far . I cannot seem to find any other way to get it apart. If anyone has a site or idea, let me know.

Thank you!
Welcome to the site! Sorry, I've done just about everything else on a TruCut but replace tires and axel.

Did you buy the 4 off of Craigslist in ATL I assume. If so, I had been looking at that listing before and thinking about doing the same thing you are. Are you planning on keeping one fore yourself? Pics? A couple people on here have messed with the axel before and should be able to help.
 

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SGrabs33 said:
@Llano Estacado I was just checking out this old thread when researching how to remove the wheel assembly. Thanks again for the info on the roll pins! How many were there?

Did you ever get the H20 or any other machines refurbed?
Did you ever figure out how to remove the wheels? I have a p20 I need to change the wheels on.
 

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Hello Everyone,

I have tru-cut 20" reel mower that the drive wheel has stopped working. I bought the mower used from a friend and have used it for about a year and a half with no issues. After reading the forum I am not sure if I have a P20 or an H20. If anyone can tell me how to tell the difference please let me know? I believe the issue is the differential but not 100% positive. I am very mechanically inclined and plan to dive into it this weekend but if there is anyone out there who has solved this issue that can point me in the right direction I would really appreciate the insight.

Thanks, Doug
 

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Aqua170 said:
Hello Everyone,

I have tru-cut 20" reel mower that the drive wheel has stopped working. I bought the mower used from a friend and have used it for about a year and a half with no issues. After reading the forum I am not sure if I have a P20 or an H20. If anyone can tell me how to tell the difference please let me know? I believe the issue is the differential but not 100% positive. I am very mechanically inclined and plan to dive into it this weekend but if there is anyone out there who has solved this issue that can point me in the right direction I would really appreciate the insight.

Thanks, Doug
What do you mean by stopped working?

What engine does it have? Do you still have the caster wheels. If it's a single wheel it is a H20, double wheel is a P20.

Think there is only one or two people on here that have messed with the back axle. It's not too easy I've heard. Couple of roll pins to be punched out.

Please document if you undertake the project!
 

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Hi, sorry for the slow response. I think I was able to learn that I have an H20 because the rep at Pro mower parts told me if I had a B&S engine it's an H20 and I have a Briggs motor. He said the P20's have a Honda engine. And yes, it has a single caster wheel in the front so thank you for confirming it's an H20.
BY "stopped working" I mean the drive wheel has stopped driving when engaged. I am pretty sure the differential has failed. If I take the weight off of it it turns but as soon as it has some resistance you can see it slip. I called today and got a price of $131 for a new one but it has to come from California and will take 7-10 days. Yes, I am going to start taking things apart on the back axle to replace it this weekend. I was able to locate an exploded view on-line so I have a good idea what I am up against but I look forward to it.
It won't look as good as Llano's but as long as I can get it functional again, I'm happy.

If anyone has any do's or don'ts please let me know.
 

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Aqua170 said:
Hi, sorry for the slow response. I think I was able to learn that I have an H20 because the rep at Pro mower parts told me if I had a B&S engine it's an H20 and I have a Briggs motor. He said the P20's have a Honda engine. And yes, it has a single caster wheel in the front so thank you for confirming it's an H20.
BY "stopped working" I mean the drive wheel has stopped driving when engaged. I am pretty sure the differential has failed. If I take the weight off of it it turns but as soon as it has some resistance you can see it slip. I called today and got a price of $131 for a new one but it has to come from California and will take 7-10 days. Yes, I am going to start taking things apart on the back axle to replace it this weekend. I was able to locate an exploded view on-line so I have a good idea what I am up against but I look forward to it.
It won't look as good as Llano's but as long as I can get it functional again, I'm happy.

If anyone has any do's or don'ts please let me know.
Good luck.

Do make a log of the process if you have time for others that will go through this in the future.
 
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